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Truck bed liner is not a good paint. The reaso is that its texured. The rubber seals the cars are built with seal to a flat smooth surface. If its textured the seal wont have a smooth contact.
In a unibody frame car I sprayed my spare tire well down with it and battery tray.
Two place where there is contact.Thanks! I think it will come out! Originally i bought a 17mm socket at the pawn shop but the space was too tight.
I hate 12 point sockets on higher torqued bolts. My biggest nightmare is a higher torqued stripped bolt!
Any body ever try a flex socket?This is a warning here about these magnaflow cats on the market.
I’m seeing these for BMW’ s too as direct fit.
Easy bolt on no cutting,grinding,welding.
That means it fits!
These will not fit and do require cutting and welding.I think for these we’re going to have to insert helicoils.
I was checking out You Tube videos and am sold on that.
I guess I’ll check out the EtCg video on stripped bolt holes.
I got Backyard Mechanics’s video when searching.Your right the aftermarket were super thin and cheap! But I guess that’s good if you have to bend them in from worse damage. I bought it then detached the lower from the upper.
The thing about it is it’s a cross member too so I went Nissan OEM lower section.
The aftermarket didn’t fit as good either. It came up short on both ends. I suppose I couldve made it work I just went ahead and gave up on it then ordered a Nissan lower section.I was thinking more on the lines of Oxalic acid such as “rust remover”. I can’t imagine brake parts cleaner removing this
Well I doubt the small wires from the harness would even carry 500 amps through it.
You would probably need 6g wire to carry the 500 amps anyway?I don’t want a Nissan OEM support in the car again.
Even if another part seems cheap it can’t be any cheaper than the S**** support that was in it to begin with.[quote=”streetglideok” post=176377]Any scanner without enhanced data capability will leave you in the dark. Some codes will only show themselves with a scan tool with enhanced OE capability. You often deal with non-emissions modules that can set codes and the cheap scanners will not show anything. Just last week, I looked over a vehicle, full shake down inspection so he could decide if it’s worth fixing. CEL was on, as well as the VSC lights(Toyota). vAutozone scanned it, and only saw one code, and they speculated that the VSC was on due to the PCM code(it can do that). I do a complete system scan, and find 4 current faults and a pending fault in the PCM, and 3 more faults in the ABS module. That’s about how useful those cheap scanners are. Now when we get a vehicle in for a pre-purchase inspection, I play detective(you have to in this business) and start snooping. I check for codes, then I go to the readiness monitors. If they aren’t complete, then I know the codes have either been erased recently, or power to the PCM has been interrupted(intentional maliciousness or accidental). If it is a ford product and OBDII, then you get a P1000 until the monitors complete. In Denver, when you go for an emissions test, ’05 and newer, they are looking for completed monitors. Used car lots who play the erase game get into a bind as it has to pass first. Now the newest vehicles out there have a mode$10. That keeps codes stored until the tests have reran and self cleared. You can’t purge them. Depending on the year of vehicle you are looking to buy, an old OTC genisys platform may be the way to go, though they were not all that great to begin with.[/quote]
There a few different types of codes. If It’s a Detonation Sensor you probably could clear it by just disconnecting the (-) battery cable. But enhanced scanning or vehicle make specific scanning like a tech II for GM may pick it up as a generic code scanner may not.
I had a P0325 that cleared by it’s self. Auto Zone didn’t pick it up after that but then I plugged in with Nissan software and there it was P0325. It’s only a one trip DTC so it only trips it once. So unless it keeps tripping a DTC it eventually just goes out after the battery gets disconnected. Right?[quote=”Hairdo12″ post=175263]As far as I know once the codes are cleared they’re gone unless they trigger again after driving. Some might first reappear as a “pending” code before triggering a SES light. One way to know if a car recently had its codes cleared is to verify the emission ready tests used for state inspections. Many of those codes may still read as incomplete; however depending on the age of the vehicle, certain scanners will show some of the more advanced test as being incomplete perpetually because the vehicle doesn’t perform that test. I believe a good one to look for is the down stream or secondary O2 emmision ready test.[/quote]
Some codes only trip a DTC once so if you clear them they don’t come back.Have you checked the fuel pressure ? I’d say also these fuel pressure regulators could become faulty. I found an injector in my 01 to have been sticking open causing all kinds of issues.
the 3.5 L maxima? I have the 01 3.0L and I had to remove the air intake. I replaced the knock sensor and water outlet nipple seal+hose.
The knock sensors goes then the car can’t re adjust after it misfires. Have you checked the Knock sensor? You need to test it in the mega ohms slot.
The fuel injectors have screens inside them that clog up and go bad too. I’m going to push carb cleaner through mine and jump off the injectors to clean them out before re installing them.I think I had some leaky fuel injectors because the clips were kind of dirty with gum build up on them.
depending on how many miles the engine gets striped down to the valves and crankshaft. the timing chain gets replaced and engine gets re sealed. Does this sound right? In the process all the hard to get to sensors and tubes have to be replaced. What’s your views Eric?