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Thanks guys! The shop rebalanced my tires again (third time for a balance from two shops) last week and while it is better, the vibrations still occur. However, above 60mph now it feels pretty good, but at 55mph the wheel still vibrates. From 30-40 the wheel vibrates slowly SOMETIMES, but not all the time. And at other times everything is hunky dory at all speeds.
So we’re down to axles and/or tires. I can’t afford new tires right now, but I can probably swing some new axles from NAPA. Since the boots are still intact on all the joints, should I just make a guess for which side to replace first?
The MXV4’s do ride fantastic, but I never felt like they gripped very good. They seem to be more of a touring tire than a sport tire.
I really do appreciate the help everyone!
Thanks everyone! Is there anyway for me to check the inner CV joint before replacement of the whole axle? Can you balance a CV axle?
What about checking the tires before I shell out $500 for a set? If I recall they came with the Michelin MXV4’s from the factory, but no one really seemed to like them very much.
Would it help mentioning that I don’t drive this car everyday. It sits still for an average of about 3-4 and is mainly driven on the weekend.
I’m really frustrated with this to be honest as I’ve tried numerous time to cure the problem, and well obviously I can’t. I enjoy the car and it runs fantastic, but this issue is just…well….frustrating to say the least.
I’m dropping it back off tonight at the last alignment shop (the one that provided the spec sheet) to see if they can pinpoint it.
No damage on the boots as far as I can tell.
I just had the tires re-balanced last week and all the weights are still there as of this evening.
I drove the car this morning to work and it was pretty bad at low speeds and high speeds. However, when I left to drive home…PERFECT. No vibrations at all at any speed! I drove to the gym…perfect…I drive back to the shop to drop it off and then it starts up again, so they have it now.
I’m stumped and I really really just want a smooth vibration free ride while driving.
Haven’t done the penny test for tread depth, but we have yearly state inspection here. As long as the tread stays above the wear indicator, you’ll pass. So far mine looks OK, however, with extra wear on the inside.
Thanks everyone for the help! Sounds like I may need to drop the whole system and purchase a reciprocating saw now to do some cutting.
I do have a question about the catalytic converter though. Since my car is OBD I, I didn’t think a code existed for catalytic efficiency or does it?
My main reason for replacing the cat was due to age and mileage. Car runs great, but I’m worried that if I only replace the exhaust from the cat back and then the cat starts to disintegrate it will clog up my new piping.
Am I over thinking it and should I just return this new catalytic converter?
Thanks!
Quoted From Beefy:
I have to disagree with using non-Honda trans fluid. At best, you would be masking any real problems in the vehicle, as Hondas are very specific about their fluids.
For the automatics yes, most definitely! For the MTF though, supposedly Honda reformulated the fluid in the past few years causing an increase in notchiness and poor shifter feel, particularly on the older transmissions. People have great success using the GM fluid and with a high mileage transmission you might get a few more miles out of it.
Sounds like the way to go to is removing everything beginning with the downpipe on back in one piece. The header to downpipe bolts have previously been removed when replacing the oilpan gasket, so those should be good to go. I plan on buying new hardware anyway, so I guess a trip to lowes or homedepot is in order. PB blasting things a few days before I begin probably can’t hurt either.
I don’t have access to a torch (except my propane one used for soldering plumbing) or a sawsall, so it’s going to have to be my hand tools and force, FUN!
Thanks for the help guys!
Agreed with the others above, fix the leak first then bleed the system out.
Change the transmission fluid as well, but I recommend using GM synchromesh friction modified. Only GM dealers carry that fluid and call around first! Yes, that sounds crazy to use that in a Honda, but that fluid seems to do really well in helping with smooth gear changes and helping worn out synchros last just a bit longer.
In my 91 5spd (pretty much the same transmission), I first changed it using Honda MTF, but felt no difference. After doing some researching I tried the GM stuff and what a world of difference! Remember, GM synchromesh WITH FRICTION MODIFIED, not the regular synchromesh.
Does the car start up OK, but as soon as you accelerate it starts to stumble around 1500 to 2000 rpms? If so, that’s your EGR ports that are clogged and need to be cleaned out. On that engine though, you have to drill out, tap and then use a slide hammer to remove the plugs. After that, just spray some throttle body cleaner in them and use a pipe cleaner to get them good and clean.
What other symptoms do you have?
Quoted From TejasNW:
Max,
Continued run down on fuel rail is the order of the day. After that timing.
The car cranks healthily but no catch, spark, or sputter. Just the churning of the starter. Check engine light not on. Battery pulled to charge, so codes cleared. None have reappeared. The ground is a good suggestion. I always forget that one crucial piece.
Jason,
Thanks for the feedback. Boots are on tight but do remove easier than others I have seen.
Thanks guys. I will continue the diagnose. I just did not want to overlook this possibility.
Glad we could help. If there is fuel at the rail, the injectors are firing, and the timing is good, I’d do a compression test next. Also, it’s rare that injectors fail on that engine so I really doubt that’s it. There is also an injector resistor box mounted in front of the driver side strut tower, but those rarely go bad as well.
Keep us updated on the test results!
