Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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New info. 😳
I agree with you, Raistian. Let us know if that’s the fix, Mit. 🙂
My Corolla may require the same switch..
New info. 😳
I agree with you, Raistian. Let us know if that’s the fix, Mit. 🙂
My Corolla may require the same switch..
I have a lot of work to do too, man. My mind sets an order for things, but the importance levels jump all over the place really quickly. :pinch:
1. Replace fluids; !!!!engine oil!!!, manual transmission oil, brake, haldex. .
2. Find and install wheel adapters so I can finally put on my favorite wheels and sell the alloys which came on the car.
3. Filters; cabin, clean my K&N cone (going back to wak box), fuel filter, oil filter, haldex filter ( 👿 )
4. Prepare :sick: , prime :whistle: , paint B) roof
5. Other; buff out key marks/love swirls, spark plugs in 5k (thanks, ethanol-infused gasoline), Lysol HVAC system, clean MAF frequently
6. Parts; replace rear calipers/rotors with refurbished ones/stainless brake lines, rear drive axles, silicone hoses/vacuum lines, wiper blades, O2 sensor (upstream on DP and impossible as of yet), front and rear struts/shocks :angry: ,
7. Fix; automatic window mechanism (auto-lowers when door is opened/closed to avoid extreme pressure in cabin), passenger window tint, big passenger side dents (one in door, one in rear fender). :unsure:Suggestions concerning the upgrades you suggested you may add..
Before anything else, find a great transmission place, and get to know the owner.
Second, sort out any possibility that your car is not in a condition to be aligned.
Check engine lights can keep you from passing even a basic inspection, so work out the most important issues utilizing codes rather than tossing parts like a darn salad.
Don’t waste money on “performance” tires. Buy some decent used rubbers ($160 for a set of four perfectly decent tires with more than ample tread left), and drive like a drugged moose (no burnouts). Too many manufacturers get away with our hard-earned money, and in return you get a set of tires which your car may or may not be able to take full advantage of. Will you be doing any track driving? If not, I’d stick to ecos for a while and budget for the important stuff – it’s just smarter, and you can’t regret it. Two, or even three, sets of cheapos costs less than one set of retail rubbers (and I betcha you could make them last longer, too). Not all used tires are generics either 😉
Don’t replace stock ignition wires unless they’re falling to pieces. Most factory wires are bulletproof unless physically compromised, and far too many ignition problems actually start appearing. They might seem ugly on the outside, but the car was made for them in particular and vice-versa. There are many sealing agents that can be applied to spark plugs if the connection isn’t perfect (ask any auto tech). It’s a bonding experience :blush:
If you are serious about power and reliability, opt for a crate motor with a warranty. Do it by the book and the book will be there to back you up.
K&N filters are more like K$N after all is said and done. One must purchase countless sprays and oils for an already outlandishly expensive device that decreases engine output. K&Ns must be maintained not just set it and forget it. Save yourself and stick to modifying your stock box (unless you’re doing a full-on induction hose). There are countless DIY performance forums for any given vehicle – especially domestics.
Coilovers are also a waste frankly. Lowered cars are automatically rejected by many buyers, and many car lovers don’t want the headaches of spring adjustment. Locate a low-mileage OEM set at a salvage lot, and make a road trip out of it.
My mantra: if there’s any substantial rust, there’s nothing to upgrade inside the engine yet
I’d try SeaFoam before even touching a valve cover. That’s the smoke you want to see. banana:Take your time with the wheels, and it’ll help the car. That means taking them off of the car for prep/paint, and working towards finish evenness at all costs. Kbb.com will thank you.
I have a lot of work to do too, man. My mind sets an order for things, but the importance levels jump all over the place really quickly. :pinch:
1. Replace fluids; !!!!engine oil!!!, manual transmission oil, brake, haldex. .
2. Find and install wheel adapters so I can finally put on my favorite wheels and sell the alloys which came on the car.
3. Filters; cabin, clean my K&N cone (going back to wak box), fuel filter, oil filter, haldex filter ( 👿 )
4. Prepare :sick: , prime :whistle: , paint B) roof
5. Other; buff out key marks/love swirls, spark plugs in 5k (thanks, ethanol-infused gasoline), Lysol HVAC system, clean MAF frequently
6. Parts; replace rear calipers/rotors with refurbished ones/stainless brake lines, rear drive axles, silicone hoses/vacuum lines, wiper blades, O2 sensor (upstream on DP and impossible as of yet), front and rear struts/shocks :angry: ,
7. Fix; automatic window mechanism (auto-lowers when door is opened/closed to avoid extreme pressure in cabin), passenger window tint, big passenger side dents (one in door, one in rear fender). :unsure:Suggestions concerning the upgrades you suggested you may add..
Before anything else, find a great transmission place, and get to know the owner.
Second, sort out any possibility that your car is not in a condition to be aligned.
Check engine lights can keep you from passing even a basic inspection, so work out the most important issues utilizing codes rather than tossing parts like a darn salad.
Don’t waste money on “performance” tires. Buy some decent used rubbers ($160 for a set of four perfectly decent tires with more than ample tread left), and drive like a drugged moose (no burnouts). Too many manufacturers get away with our hard-earned money, and in return you get a set of tires which your car may or may not be able to take full advantage of. Will you be doing any track driving? If not, I’d stick to ecos for a while and budget for the important stuff – it’s just smarter, and you can’t regret it. Two, or even three, sets of cheapos costs less than one set of retail rubbers (and I betcha you could make them last longer, too). Not all used tires are generics either 😉
Don’t replace stock ignition wires unless they’re falling to pieces. Most factory wires are bulletproof unless physically compromised, and far too many ignition problems actually start appearing. They might seem ugly on the outside, but the car was made for them in particular and vice-versa. There are many sealing agents that can be applied to spark plugs if the connection isn’t perfect (ask any auto tech). It’s a bonding experience :blush:
If you are serious about power and reliability, opt for a crate motor with a warranty. Do it by the book and the book will be there to back you up.
K&N filters are more like K$N after all is said and done. One must purchase countless sprays and oils for an already outlandishly expensive device that decreases engine output. K&Ns must be maintained not just set it and forget it. Save yourself and stick to modifying your stock box (unless you’re doing a full-on induction hose). There are countless DIY performance forums for any given vehicle – especially domestics.
Coilovers are also a waste frankly. Lowered cars are automatically rejected by many buyers, and many car lovers don’t want the headaches of spring adjustment. Locate a low-mileage OEM set at a salvage lot, and make a road trip out of it.
My mantra: if there’s any substantial rust, there’s nothing to upgrade inside the engine yet
I’d try SeaFoam before even touching a valve cover. That’s the smoke you want to see. banana:Take your time with the wheels, and it’ll help the car. That means taking them off of the car for prep/paint, and working towards finish evenness at all costs. Kbb.com will thank you.
Your coolant is within specifications most likely because of the fans. They’re meant to be on – just a sign of a healthy cooling system. You may as well just replace the turn signals for flashing. 😉 (DWAI; don’t worry about it!) A stationary cooling fan would prove to be an obstruction for incoming air – engines need to be coooool. Much cooler in relation to the temperature of combustion than most people would think. According to my high school chemistry teacher, only 20% of the energy contained in fuel is converted to forward momentum in everyday driving. The remaining ~80% bit is converted to heat through friction relationships. This is why economy lubricants are often so much less viscous than ‘standards’. My question to you: were you moving or at a standstill when you observed the blades rotating? If it turns out you were stationary, all of that energy would then essentially be turned directly to heat which either sits in the engine bay, radiator, ambient air, other electronics/accessories or exits through a constricted exhaust system. We would all be way more concerned if your fans weren’t coming on.. B)
Your coolant is within specifications most likely because of the fans. They’re meant to be on – just a sign of a healthy cooling system. You may as well just replace the turn signals for flashing. 😉 (DWAI; don’t worry about it!) A stationary cooling fan would prove to be an obstruction for incoming air – engines need to be coooool. Much cooler in relation to the temperature of combustion than most people would think. According to my high school chemistry teacher, only 20% of the energy contained in fuel is converted to forward momentum in everyday driving. The remaining ~80% bit is converted to heat through friction relationships. This is why economy lubricants are often so much less viscous than ‘standards’. My question to you: were you moving or at a standstill when you observed the blades rotating? If it turns out you were stationary, all of that energy would then essentially be turned directly to heat which either sits in the engine bay, radiator, ambient air, other electronics/accessories or exits through a constricted exhaust system. We would all be way more concerned if your fans weren’t coming on.. B)