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I’m back again and I feel kind of stupid now, I found out what was making this “clicking” sound when turning sharp and going over bumps.
This is a bracket that is supposed to be bolted under the master cylinder that retains the PCM wiring harness. When I had my master cylinder replaced by a shop a few months ago the guy obviously never put this bracket back so it was just hanging on the wire harness bouncing against the firewall every time I hit a bump and for some reason it must have hit harder while turning. Odd thing is that the frequency of “clicks” almost seemed like a bad CV axle….
Anyway I hope this helps someone at some point, which is why I’m sharing my “Doh” moment with you… :blush: lol
Thanks anyway,
Tyler
PS. My question about the CV axles still stands, can 4wd front CV axles make noise in 2wd?
I’m back again and I feel kind of stupid now, I found out what was making this “clicking” sound when turning sharp and going over bumps.
This is a bracket that is supposed to be bolted under the master cylinder that retains the PCM wiring harness. When I had my master cylinder replaced by a shop a few months ago the guy obviously never put this bracket back so it was just hanging on the wire harness bouncing against the firewall every time I hit a bump and for some reason it must have hit harder while turning. Odd thing is that the frequency of “clicks” almost seemed like a bad CV axle….
Anyway I hope this helps someone at some point, which is why I’m sharing my “Doh” moment with you… :blush: lol
Thanks anyway,
Tyler
PS. My question about the CV axles still stands, can 4wd front CV axles make noise in 2wd?
Hey Eric
According to my Haynes manual you can rotate to TDC #1 and do half the valves, then rotate to TDC #6 and do the others. That’s what I did.
Also I’ve read and heard from a few people that with the roller lifters, you can actually just change the lifters without changing the cam because the rollers don’t wear into a cam like flat lifters do. Have I been mislead?
Hey Eric
According to my Haynes manual you can rotate to TDC #1 and do half the valves, then rotate to TDC #6 and do the others. That’s what I did.
Also I’ve read and heard from a few people that with the roller lifters, you can actually just change the lifters without changing the cam because the rollers don’t wear into a cam like flat lifters do. Have I been mislead?
Hey Eric I was adjusting the rockers because I was investigating a noisy lifter on startup.
I took the push rods out so that I could try to concentrate some Seafoam down into the lifters to let them soak in an effort to clean out any debris that was blocking the offending lifter’s check valve.
Therefore I had to adjust the rocker arms when I put everything back together.
I actually adjusted them first with the engine off by running each rocker nut down until I could feel a slight drag while turning the push rod and then going 3/4 of a turn past that, but I ended up with quite a noisy valve train after that (noisier than when I began). So my second option was to adjust with the engine running.
To answer your question the adjustment helped to quiet the ticking lifter, but it’s still noticeable if you listen real carefully.
The engine does run smoother though at idle.
Thanks,
Tyler
Hey Eric I was adjusting the rockers because I was investigating a noisy lifter on startup.
I took the push rods out so that I could try to concentrate some Seafoam down into the lifters to let them soak in an effort to clean out any debris that was blocking the offending lifter’s check valve.
Therefore I had to adjust the rocker arms when I put everything back together.
I actually adjusted them first with the engine off by running each rocker nut down until I could feel a slight drag while turning the push rod and then going 3/4 of a turn past that, but I ended up with quite a noisy valve train after that (noisier than when I began). So my second option was to adjust with the engine running.
To answer your question the adjustment helped to quiet the ticking lifter, but it’s still noticeable if you listen real carefully.
The engine does run smoother though at idle.
Thanks,
Tyler
I got the rockers adjusted today, I ended up running the engine for a minute or two while I did one side then let it cool because it was getting hot way too fast. After awhile cooling I just did the same with the other side and then let it cool again before putting everything back together.
So it is possible but you are right, it’s necessary to keep a close eye on the temp because it rises faster than you’d think!
Thanks again,
Tyler
I got the rockers adjusted today, I ended up running the engine for a minute or two while I did one side then let it cool because it was getting hot way too fast. After awhile cooling I just did the same with the other side and then let it cool again before putting everything back together.
So it is possible but you are right, it’s necessary to keep a close eye on the temp because it rises faster than you’d think!
Thanks again,
Tyler
Haha Thanks Karl!
I’ll give it a shot in the morning, not too concerned about error codes I just don’t want to damage anything. I’ll let you know how it goes once I’m done. 😛
Haha Thanks Karl!
I’ll give it a shot in the morning, not too concerned about error codes I just don’t want to damage anything. I’ll let you know how it goes once I’m done. 😛
Thanks for the quick reply!
In my last sentence I actually meant water pump (in addition to AC pump and alternator and PS pump…) because they are all turned by the serpentine belt.
I figure if I’m quick enough and do it while the engine is cold, it won’t get too hot, what do you think?
