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Thanks for all the tips. I got the wheel off and the stud out. I bought myself a decent set of cobalt bits and used a 5/16th bit to run down the bolt then followed that with a 5/16th bit. Once it got low enough I put a socket on it and hammered it off. Then a beautiful sight my wheel was free. I then loosened the brakes off, pulled the drum off and with the lightest tap the stud fell free. The knurling on the stud and the hub are gone so I’m gonna have to install a new stud and then tack weld it from behind. Has anyone had any luck with an oversized stud. That crossed my mind but I’m not sure about it. Just so glad my wheel came off.
Thanks for all the tips. I got the wheel off and the stud out. I bought myself a decent set of cobalt bits and used a 5/16th bit to run down the bolt then followed that with a 5/16th bit. Once it got low enough I put a socket on it and hammered it off. Then a beautiful sight my wheel was free. I then loosened the brakes off, pulled the drum off and with the lightest tap the stud fell free. The knurling on the stud and the hub are gone so I’m gonna have to install a new stud and then tack weld it from behind. Has anyone had any luck with an oversized stud. That crossed my mind but I’m not sure about it. Just so glad my wheel came off.
It’s open nut and yes it is exposed somewhat.
It’s open nut and yes it is exposed somewhat.
67 Chevelle SS is by far my favorite car of all time. I’ve been looking for a junker for a while to rebuild.
I ended up finding the problem it was a seized AC Compressor pulley…….I replaced the compressor with a bypass pulley because the ac didn’t work in the car anyway and wala. thanks to everyone for their suggestions.
Just wanted to update on this…. I have since load tested the battery everything checks out good. Haven’t really experienced the code much lately. I have since cleaned my throttle but seeing as it has come on since then I’m not sure that fixed it.
I work on trucks and on a lot of the new engines I’ve seen the element style. I agree the element style are nicer to change. Really no mess at all as for filtering though I’m not sure if it’s any better. From what I’ve seen you leave all the dirty oil in their unless you clean it out and replace it, and that never gets done. With the spin on filter we are able to just fill the new filter with clean oil. So you have a fresh start but I prefer the element filters.
It was starting by going straight power from the positive battery terminal to the solenoid wire but now won’t There is 12.6 volts at the Starter Power wire. They are not top post type batteries their side posts and the connections are tight and clean. The rest of the ideas here I will have to try tomorrow I’ll let you know how it goes.
I cleared the code and drove it for the last 3 days and haven’t had any problems. But I will let you all know once I’ve had a chance to load test.
I Checked the voltage of the battery shortly after posting this finding that it sits at 12.6 volts engine off. With the engine running no accessories on it runs at 14.5 volts. I haven’t had a chance to load test the batteries yet because my load tester is in my tool box at work, I wont have access till sunday.
is this a battery problem more times than not?
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