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I checked the area behind the glove box and I couldn’t find the DRL relay or module. All I found was the ABS module. As for the headlight relay, unless it is bundled with something else, I couldn’t find said relay in the fuse box inside and in the engine bay. Toyota must’ve had some asinine idea to conceal the DRL module/relay. And I’m tired of scouring the internet for any information. This Camry is the base model 4 cylinder engine. Unless you have any other location or idea where they might hide it, I’ll just splice a toggle switch to control the high beams.
The Handle Adjuster Nut, are you referring to the self adjuster that’s in the drum?
That’s the thing, I haven’t found any clear procedures on adjusting it. One of them says to use the adjuster screw, another will say crank the handbrake multiple times. I haven’t found anything that can relate to this truck.
UPDATE: I just received some new information regarding the airbag code. My mother just told me that the day the light came on was when she had to honk at someone to get them to move. She normally doesn’t sound the horn so when she sound the horn today, she remembered everything. I’m wondering if this new information can narrow down the likely source to the code.
The vehicle in question is a 02 4Runner.
How can I check to see where the ground is occuring?
I have a multimeter and the closest setting to satisfy the resistance is 2M. And when I was checking the resistance to body ground, while it was plugged to the module, I was picking up .65.Initial scan before the inspection process:
B0102
B0107
B0132
B0137After the inspection process and current:
B0102
B0132
B0137I found the culprit for the coolant leak. When I went to the garage to remove the negative cable to continue my work, the coolant was low once again. Upon inspecting, the top if the radiator was unusually moist by the passenger side. When I wipe it to dry it off, it didn’t. Plus there was some crude on top of the radiator fins.
[quote=”DaFirnz” post=166447]Before throwing cooling system parts at it, properly diagnose the source of the coolant leak. Was your water pump replaced as part of the timing belt service?
As far as the picture of oil leaks you posted, it looks like you valve covers are leaking. They’re about that age where they’ll start to leak. If they’re leaking enough to be spilling enough oil to create a burning smell, you need to be monitoring your oil level and consider moving the repair into a more immediate priority.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/finding-and-fixing-leaks/finding-engine-oil-leaks%5B/quote%5D
The water pump was replaced with the timing belt. In fact, the job was delayed because they were waiting for the water pump to arrive so that I know it was replaced.
As for the oil leak, I did suspect it was coming from the value cover but thanks for confirming my suspicion. The leak is slow but I am monitoring the levels.
The pdf you recommended for the airbag, where would I find said connector for the airbag/horn?
If I fixed the airbag code, will that fix the ABS or they are completely separate issuses?
[quote=”nightflyr” post=166238]Antilock Brake System:
B0132 http://www.moranbahweather.com/toyota/lc_trj12/rm/rm990e/m_05_1205.pdf
[quote=”shaun” post=162341]It is definately related. It could and probly is the timing. Thanks for mentioning that. Anytime a failure happens after work has been performed, you always go back to what was recently done. In this case engine work, and the engine now fails to run properly. Take it back to where the work was done[/quote]
Good news. It turns out that my problems were simple fixes. The P0132 was triggered because of a bad connection. When they reseal the engine, they cleaned it the exterior as well and some of the fluid dripped into the connector. All I have to do is to remove the water and everything should be fine.
As for the rough idle during cold start, I was told that my existing code, P0401, is causing the rough idle. However, he told to me to bring the car back to the dealer and let it sit so he can examine the engine’s behavior during the cold start.
So far, the engine is behaving for now. Since I’m working through the weekend, I’m finally planning on cleaning the EGR ports on Monday. Hopefully that can fix the idle problem. If that doesn’t fix it, I’m screwed.That’s is what I feared. 🙁 Very well then
Some addition information:
I went to start the car to run an errand. I cranked the car, release the key and it didn’t run. I tried again and same result. I tried for the third time with a little gas assist and it roared to life.Also, I doubt that it’s related but the car was at the dealership for an engine reseal. Rear main seal was replaced, oil pan gasket was replaced, VTEC solenoid was replaced, distributor was replaced, new water pump and the timing belt was replaced. Again, I don’t know if it is related but the problem started the day after I got the car back.
[quote=”shaun” post=162335]Check for vacuum leaks. It seems to be hunting. Your o2 sensors are not used until they get to operating temperature.[/quote]
How to I check for vacuum leaks?
Fixed the link.
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