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This post assumes basic understanding of A/C is already understood. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w17DpGCcRj8_x000D_
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What others in this thread are alluding to is the clutch cycling operation. The low pressure switch is sometimes called a “clutch cyclinHe probably forgot to refill his blinker fluid. Here is a how to video to fill it back up. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZxkHqPXwNZ4
The oil used should be the recommended viscosity by the manufacturer’s engineers, not a “try this” mechanic or salesman. The engine as a whole is designed around a specific viscosity. Changing this will accelerate wear on one part while extendin
This is basically the same idea behind how I broke in my 1993 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L straight 6 after rebuilding the engine. In that case I drove 35 mph and floored it to 55mph. Then let it coast back to 35mph then repeat. I repeated this I believe 5 times. I
Lead acid batteries require a sulfuric acid solution, usually 35% sulfuric acid 65% distilled water. This is part of their chemistry to operate as a battery. Usually the water will boil off allowing distilled water to be added. If it doesn’t take a charge, then it is worn and needs to be replaced.
R134a systems do normally use PAG oil. R12 conversion should not use standard PAG oil unless thoroughly flushed out. There are two problems with this. First, PAG is not compatible with mineral oil. Secondly, the PAG will react with any chlorine left in the system creating an acid that will eat away at seals and stuff. Enough acid will destroy the compressor. Since the system was probably not flushed out very well, you should flush it out to get rid of any acid in the system.
The alternatives to flushing the system out well when making the conversion is to use oils that are not reactive to chlorine. There is a PAG oil referred as Double End Cap or DEC-PAG oil. This does not react with the chlorine. Another option is to use a POE oil specialized for automotive purpose such as “BVA auto 100 POE oil.” This is not reactive to chlorine either.
As for how much oil to use, the recommended amount of mineral oil will be sufficient for the new oil used. The goal is to coat the whole system without causing any excessive pooling in the compressor or accumulator if your system has one. The 134a refrigerant itself tracks POE and PAG oil around the system very well.
If it comes with a grease zerk, grease it soon and grease it often. Usually the joints will come with enough grease for assembly, but not enough for long term use. This is to keep the parts from metal on metal friction, but not to spill grease out making a mess.
Also, if they have a zerk, this means that they are not sealed and will need to be greased at an interval. Joints without zerks will last much longer than ones with zerks that aren’t greased for this reason. Having the zerk and greasing it will allow for an extended life over parts that are sealed and do not have the zerks.
The best way to fix the problem is to diagnose it first. There are three things needed for proper combustion. Fuel, Ignition, and compression. For less time and expense than replacing parts at random you can have the car diagnosed with a well equipped mechanic shop or you can purchase some basic diagnostic equipment.
The plugs give a good indication of what is going on. Check the plugs to see if anything unusual is going on. Examples are carbon buildup indicating that it is getting too much fuel. Usually if the engine is getting too much fuel for combustion, it will give off black smoke. At higher RPMs, the fuel system is limited in how much fuel can be injected which will improve performance. If the engine is struggling at low RPM with getting enough fuel, high RPM during acceleration won’t suddenly make the fuel system work better.
The ignition system was replaced so it isn’t likely the issue. They way to diagnose this is to use an ignition system tester. This device clips onto the engine and the spark plug wire is placed onto it. It will put additional stress to find any failures in the ignition system. When the engine is cranked, the spark will be visible. If it is not, there is an issue with the ignition system. Note that you should never leave any of the spark plug wires unattached to a spark plug or otherwise grounded to the engine. The tester’s clip needs to be attached to a metal part on the engine. Failure to do so will damage the coil pack and possibly the ignition control module.
Compression can be the issue as well. If there is a leak in the cylinder, it will probably leak at a specific rate over time. At lower RPM, it can cause the engine to miss while at higher RPM it won’t leak as much so the performance will improve. A compression test will indicate compression related issue and which cylinder. If there is a compression leak, then a leakdown test can be performed to see where the leak is going to such as out the tailpipe or intake manifold for valve leaks.
Compression test: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_tbksFYhl4
Leak down test: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgrfT0LFMhcI would test the compressor clutch coil with an ohmmeter. If the signal is getting to the clutch giving it 12 volts across the coil then the coil probably opened up which would be very high resistance. If this is the case, I would replace the coil. If it is not turning at all, it will likely be an open coil.
If the clutch turns the compressor but slips, I would replace the whole clutch.
The suspension and tires are stock. I assume that an issue with the suspension and other steering components would bind at all times and not just when the power steering becomes hot.
I could see the binding causing the power steering pump to sustain pressure, overheat and cause damage to the pump. I’m not sure how the binding would be caused by the pump, especially since it is more noticeable at higher speeds with less power steering action.
It is an interesting design and won’t sag like a hydraulic jack would. I wouldn’t trust my life to it though.
The two things on it that I don’t like are the top surface and the base width. I like a Jack stand with a good U shape that fits around a structural component. This positively prevents the vehicle from slipping off. The other thing I like in a Jack stand is a wide base. The higher the lift required, the wider the base is required. This prevents the jack from tipping under side loads.
When my life is at stake, I require a large margin of safety. I want the jack stands to handle much more than they would ever see for slipping, tipping or breaking. I test it to make sure it is plenty robust enough before getting under the vehicle.
Quoted From Heath Knox:
Any time I sell a A/C job I always bid High. An inline filter is sold anytime its a compressor failure just some added protection cause no mater how well you flush the system you never get out all the “black death”. If its an orifice tube, it gets replaced along with the accumulator/receiver drier and o-rings.And yes come backs always happen. I only warranty new parts.
You are on the right track for a compressor failure. For a situation where the compressor eats itself to death, the above just is not enough to ensure the system will come out okay. I could explain it myself, but I think the guy in the following link does a great job at explaining how to handle the situation.
http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automoti … E_P116082/
I will add a few notes:
The biggest case in point for automotive AC is the sophisticated condenser used. The engineers have very good reasons for designing the way they do. The end result is many parallel paths through it that cannot be flushed out but will release when they reach the high pressures and temperatures of normal operation. The best thing to do is replace the condenser.
A side note is that you don’t want to modify the high side of the A/C system. The pressures can become very high and improper changes can ruin the performance of the system, damage the system or explode.
The evaporator if single flow path and can be flushed out if done so properly. If it is a parallel path evaporator, it should technically be replaced. It is a big job required to replace it and it’s small volume. A thorough flush and use of a filter on the compressor’s suction line should be enough to protect the compressor as long as the filter doesn’t become clogged.