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Ok will do. I will pressure test and check out the numbers in a day or two.
No the radiator was replaced due to the reservoir leaking.
About 2 months ago I did replace a heater hose though. This particular problem started about 3 weeks ago.
Overheated again today. There is no way there was any air in that system. The car drove fine for about 150 miles between last night and this afternoon when it overheated again.
The cap is the one for that aftermarket radiator. I picked up another cap to test. It is a very different style but is the same pressure rating and will fit on snug.
I did a block test with the blue fluid. I was applying the test all throughout the rev range too and it passed with flying colors.
I will pick up a pressure tester today, though it doesn’t appear to be leaking coolant anywhere. Could that test shed light on an issue other than a leak?
EDIT: Also, the old plugs looked fine. They were old but all of them were identical. Definitely no indication of coolant burning.
Passed the combustion gas test. I changed the spark plugs (unrelated but needed them anyway) and bled the system for at least an hour. Some air did come out. Total, the car ran for ~2 hours with no issues.
Is there any other place that air could leak into the system? Like a water pump bearing or something?
I am 100% sure that the fans are working correctly. I have not done a flush because it had one about a year ago and there is zero debris in the coolant. Even the 14 year old thermostat was super clean. Also if it were a clog, I think it would overheat more consistently.
What’s everyone think?
Ok thanks, I’ll check that out.
Any other suggestions of things to check while I’m under there?
How about the air filter? A dirty filter can cause too rich conditions. Also obstructions in the air intake.
P.S. When changing the air filter in my old bone stock 2004 Civic, there was a full honeybun wrapper stuck to the bottom of the filter. How it got in there? Fantastic question haha.
I guess nobody likes Eric’s method? Any of the contributing veterans care to explain?
Since there has been so much discussion of a suction gun, and his method uses no suction gun, I would’ve figured that would be an adequate solution.
My gut instinct is that this is a timing issue. However, I don’t think it would be a bad idea to get that EGR system as functional as possible just to eliminate any other potential weirdness.
I think that 50 degrees for an ambient temp of 95 is pretty good; really good taking the age of the vehicle into consideration. As I understand it, A/C is not capable of cooling to the same temperature regardless of ambient temperature. Instead it’s capability falls more into being able to drop the temperature about 30 degrees below the ambient temp. In your case specifically, it is able to drop the temperature 45 degrees below which is quite impressive.
Also, keep in mind what the ambient temperature was when it was cooling down to 38 or 42 degrees. If the ambient temperature was in the 70’s, then it’s not an even playing field.
I think that 50 degrees for an ambient temp of 95 is pretty good; really good taking the age of the vehicle into consideration. As I understand it, A/C is not capable of cooling to the same temperature regardless of ambient temperature. Instead it’s capability falls more into being able to drop the temperature about 30 degrees below the ambient temp. In your case specifically, it is able to drop the temperature 45 degrees below which is quite impressive.
Also, keep in mind what the ambient temperature was when it was cooling down to 38 or 42 degrees. If the ambient temperature was in the 70’s, then it’s not an even playing field.
Okay, thanks!
One additional question:
In the owners manual, it says that in warmer climates 10W-20 can be used instead of 5W-20. I live in Atlanta and the only time the temperature gets anywhere near the low end of the provided temperature scale will be long after this oil change. Any thoughts? What are the advantages (if any) to using a higher weight oil in this car?
Okay, thanks!
One additional question:
In the owners manual, it says that in warmer climates 10W-20 can be used instead of 5W-20. I live in Atlanta and the only time the temperature gets anywhere near the low end of the provided temperature scale will be long after this oil change. Any thoughts? What are the advantages (if any) to using a higher weight oil in this car?
Regarding whether you should or shouldn’t replace the distributor, if Eric has taught me anything it’s that trying to diagnose around known problems doesn’t work very well. If the rotor tip is burnt and there’s red dust everywhere, it’s gotta go. If the idle is still bad after you replace it, go back to diagnosis being absolutely sure that the distributor doesn’t have anything to do with it.
Just my 2c.
Regarding whether you should or shouldn’t replace the distributor, if Eric has taught me anything it’s that trying to diagnose around known problems doesn’t work very well. If the rotor tip is burnt and there’s red dust everywhere, it’s gotta go. If the idle is still bad after you replace it, go back to diagnosis being absolutely sure that the distributor doesn’t have anything to do with it.
Just my 2c.
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