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Scott Allen

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  • in reply to: 02 Accord VERY intermittent overheat #860994
    Scott AllenScott Allen
    Participant

      Ok will do. I will pressure test and check out the numbers in a day or two.

      No the radiator was replaced due to the reservoir leaking.

      About 2 months ago I did replace a heater hose though. This particular problem started about 3 weeks ago.

      in reply to: 02 Accord VERY intermittent overheat #860978
      Scott AllenScott Allen
      Participant

        Overheated again today. There is no way there was any air in that system. The car drove fine for about 150 miles between last night and this afternoon when it overheated again.

        The cap is the one for that aftermarket radiator. I picked up another cap to test. It is a very different style but is the same pressure rating and will fit on snug.

        I did a block test with the blue fluid. I was applying the test all throughout the rev range too and it passed with flying colors.

        I will pick up a pressure tester today, though it doesn’t appear to be leaking coolant anywhere. Could that test shed light on an issue other than a leak?

        EDIT: Also, the old plugs looked fine. They were old but all of them were identical. Definitely no indication of coolant burning.

        in reply to: 02 Accord VERY intermittent overheat #860934
        Scott AllenScott Allen
        Participant

          Passed the combustion gas test. I changed the spark plugs (unrelated but needed them anyway) and bled the system for at least an hour. Some air did come out. Total, the car ran for ~2 hours with no issues.

          Is there any other place that air could leak into the system? Like a water pump bearing or something?

          in reply to: 02 Accord VERY intermittent overheat #860904
          Scott AllenScott Allen
          Participant

            I am 100% sure that the fans are working correctly. I have not done a flush because it had one about a year ago and there is zero debris in the coolant. Even the 14 year old thermostat was super clean. Also if it were a clog, I think it would overheat more consistently.

            What’s everyone think?

            in reply to: 2002 Accord Rattle #668277
            Scott AllenScott Allen
            Participant

              Ok thanks, I’ll check that out.

              Any other suggestions of things to check while I’m under there?

              in reply to: 1996 Volvo 850 GLT P0172/Running Rich #662151
              Scott AllenScott Allen
              Participant

                How about the air filter? A dirty filter can cause too rich conditions. Also obstructions in the air intake.

                P.S. When changing the air filter in my old bone stock 2004 Civic, there was a full honeybun wrapper stuck to the bottom of the filter. How it got in there? Fantastic question haha.

                in reply to: how do I service my own power steering system? #660924
                Scott AllenScott Allen
                Participant

                  I guess nobody likes Eric’s method? Any of the contributing veterans care to explain?

                  Since there has been so much discussion of a suction gun, and his method uses no suction gun, I would’ve figured that would be an adequate solution.

                  in reply to: 1993 Accord LX crank, no start #660923
                  Scott AllenScott Allen
                  Participant

                    My gut instinct is that this is a timing issue. However, I don’t think it would be a bad idea to get that EGR system as functional as possible just to eliminate any other potential weirdness.

                    in reply to: 1986 BMW 528E AC using R-12 Freon #610392
                    Scott AllenScott Allen
                    Participant

                      I think that 50 degrees for an ambient temp of 95 is pretty good; really good taking the age of the vehicle into consideration. As I understand it, A/C is not capable of cooling to the same temperature regardless of ambient temperature. Instead it’s capability falls more into being able to drop the temperature about 30 degrees below the ambient temp. In your case specifically, it is able to drop the temperature 45 degrees below which is quite impressive.

                      Also, keep in mind what the ambient temperature was when it was cooling down to 38 or 42 degrees. If the ambient temperature was in the 70’s, then it’s not an even playing field.

                      in reply to: 1986 BMW 528E AC using R-12 Freon #601626
                      Scott AllenScott Allen
                      Participant

                        I think that 50 degrees for an ambient temp of 95 is pretty good; really good taking the age of the vehicle into consideration. As I understand it, A/C is not capable of cooling to the same temperature regardless of ambient temperature. Instead it’s capability falls more into being able to drop the temperature about 30 degrees below the ambient temp. In your case specifically, it is able to drop the temperature 45 degrees below which is quite impressive.

                        Also, keep in mind what the ambient temperature was when it was cooling down to 38 or 42 degrees. If the ambient temperature was in the 70’s, then it’s not an even playing field.

                        in reply to: VTEC Maintenance Question #608798
                        Scott AllenScott Allen
                        Participant

                          Okay, thanks!

                          One additional question:

                          In the owners manual, it says that in warmer climates 10W-20 can be used instead of 5W-20. I live in Atlanta and the only time the temperature gets anywhere near the low end of the provided temperature scale will be long after this oil change. Any thoughts? What are the advantages (if any) to using a higher weight oil in this car?

                          in reply to: VTEC Maintenance Question #600153
                          Scott AllenScott Allen
                          Participant

                            Okay, thanks!

                            One additional question:

                            In the owners manual, it says that in warmer climates 10W-20 can be used instead of 5W-20. I live in Atlanta and the only time the temperature gets anywhere near the low end of the provided temperature scale will be long after this oil change. Any thoughts? What are the advantages (if any) to using a higher weight oil in this car?

                            in reply to: Prelude won’t idle #608443
                            Scott AllenScott Allen
                            Participant

                              Regarding whether you should or shouldn’t replace the distributor, if Eric has taught me anything it’s that trying to diagnose around known problems doesn’t work very well. If the rotor tip is burnt and there’s red dust everywhere, it’s gotta go. If the idle is still bad after you replace it, go back to diagnosis being absolutely sure that the distributor doesn’t have anything to do with it.

                              Just my 2c.

                              in reply to: Prelude won’t idle #599831
                              Scott AllenScott Allen
                              Participant

                                Regarding whether you should or shouldn’t replace the distributor, if Eric has taught me anything it’s that trying to diagnose around known problems doesn’t work very well. If the rotor tip is burnt and there’s red dust everywhere, it’s gotta go. If the idle is still bad after you replace it, go back to diagnosis being absolutely sure that the distributor doesn’t have anything to do with it.

                                Just my 2c.

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