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Is the shake thru your steering wheel or through the seat of your pants? If it’s thru the steering wheel, then you could still have a wheel balancing issue or a bent rim. If it’s thru the seat of your pants, it could be a number of things, but I’d look driveline first since you say its only happening after 40mph.
[quote=”barneyb” post=113518]Is this a built motor with forged pistons?[/quote]
Built yes, but not by me, which adds to the uncertainty. I would be highly surprised if it had forged pistons.
[quote=”barneyb” post=113518]Is this a built motor with forged pistons?[/quote]
Built yes, but not by me, which adds to the uncertainty. I would be highly surprised if it had forged pistons.
Thanks for the replies guys. I have 4 on the floor, so no converter. I do however need to check the inspection cover. Thanks for the suggestion. I tried to get the car to duplicate the sound this morning, from cold to operating temp, it was a no go. Ran perfectly. Getting a bit aggravated with it as I know its there somewhere waiting to come out. I’ll try again tomorrow. I did put the stethoscope on the fuel pump and sounded normal.
Thanks for the replies guys. I have 4 on the floor, so no converter. I do however need to check the inspection cover. Thanks for the suggestion. I tried to get the car to duplicate the sound this morning, from cold to operating temp, it was a no go. Ran perfectly. Getting a bit aggravated with it as I know its there somewhere waiting to come out. I’ll try again tomorrow. I did put the stethoscope on the fuel pump and sounded normal.
Thanks for the replies guys. I’ve got an aluminum replacement on the way, and will stick with my OEM fan/shroud setup. We’ll see how it goes.
Thanks for the replies guys. I’ve got an aluminum replacement on the way, and will stick with my OEM fan/shroud setup. We’ll see how it goes.
Thanks Barney. I had thought about that, as the car has been raced in the past, which might accelerate an issue like that. I’ll reaffirm the new TDC tomorrow and adjust the new dizzy accordingly. Thanks again!
Thanks Barney. I had thought about that, as the car has been raced in the past, which might accelerate an issue like that. I’ll reaffirm the new TDC tomorrow and adjust the new dizzy accordingly. Thanks again!
Thanks again Eric. I actually watched your video a couple of weeks ago. Very easy to understand which is much appreciated!! I haven’t been able to get to this just yet. I’m planning on it tomorrow.
With the car running OK, I just find it curious that the timing has been off as much as it appears to be (18 degrees) with the car still running acceptably. I say acceptable, but it is a bit unpredictable at times, mostly on startup and slightly choppy idle at times, but nothing that someone else would really notice. Which again, is it possible to advance the dizzy so much that it can compensate for the rotor to be pointing one cylinder off?
I also have a new Pertronics dizzy that I’m putting in with new coil. Should be a big improvement over the original AC Delco points system, and hopefully more reliable on startup and better distribution up the power band.
I’ll let you know how it goes. Hopefully no CAR-BBQ! 🙂
Thanks again Eric. I actually watched your video a couple of weeks ago. Very easy to understand which is much appreciated!! I haven’t been able to get to this just yet. I’m planning on it tomorrow.
With the car running OK, I just find it curious that the timing has been off as much as it appears to be (18 degrees) with the car still running acceptably. I say acceptable, but it is a bit unpredictable at times, mostly on startup and slightly choppy idle at times, but nothing that someone else would really notice. Which again, is it possible to advance the dizzy so much that it can compensate for the rotor to be pointing one cylinder off?
I also have a new Pertronics dizzy that I’m putting in with new coil. Should be a big improvement over the original AC Delco points system, and hopefully more reliable on startup and better distribution up the power band.
I’ll let you know how it goes. Hopefully no CAR-BBQ! 🙂
Thanks for the feedback guys. The wheels and tires are new and were balanced not too long ago. The vibration seems to be coming from the floorboard and seat area versus the wheel, which is why I was thinking driveshaft. The wheels are Torque Thrust II’s, so they are not hub centric, and I use rings for that. I suppose that could be a culprit. I just pulled them off last night and put them back on for something else I was working on, so maybe it might help re-seating them with the the alignment rings that I use.
Fxdx95 may have hit on something, as the u-joint bolts were really tight when I pulled the shaft off. I mean, I had to set the closed wrench on the bolt, then jack up my jack against it to break it. I’ve read that tightening that much is a no no, but not sure what kind of impact it might have had on the joint. I’m assuming that I wouldn’t know unless I replaced the joint itself.
Eric – Yes, my ’67 is a blast to drive. Original RS and 4-speed. It’s certainly a labor of love, as it has its problems, but interestingly enough, it could be sitting by a Ferrari or Lamborghini, and people always gravitate to the Camaro. The ’69 is certainly the most popular out of all 3 years, and the interior is much more refined, but something about having the first year it was made intrigues me, as the design is just as attractive now as it was in ’67. That’s what you call genius in my book! And of course, the RS/SS combo is the mecca. Only a Yenko or COPO trumps it.
Anyhow, I’ll take a look at a couple of the suggestions and let you guys know. Vibrations have to be the most aggravating and puzzling piece of owning these old cars, but well worth the effort! I posted a pic below. Hopefully I did it correctly. 🙂
Thanks for the feedback guys. The wheels and tires are new and were balanced not too long ago. The vibration seems to be coming from the floorboard and seat area versus the wheel, which is why I was thinking driveshaft. The wheels are Torque Thrust II’s, so they are not hub centric, and I use rings for that. I suppose that could be a culprit. I just pulled them off last night and put them back on for something else I was working on, so maybe it might help re-seating them with the the alignment rings that I use.
Fxdx95 may have hit on something, as the u-joint bolts were really tight when I pulled the shaft off. I mean, I had to set the closed wrench on the bolt, then jack up my jack against it to break it. I’ve read that tightening that much is a no no, but not sure what kind of impact it might have had on the joint. I’m assuming that I wouldn’t know unless I replaced the joint itself.
Eric – Yes, my ’67 is a blast to drive. Original RS and 4-speed. It’s certainly a labor of love, as it has its problems, but interestingly enough, it could be sitting by a Ferrari or Lamborghini, and people always gravitate to the Camaro. The ’69 is certainly the most popular out of all 3 years, and the interior is much more refined, but something about having the first year it was made intrigues me, as the design is just as attractive now as it was in ’67. That’s what you call genius in my book! And of course, the RS/SS combo is the mecca. Only a Yenko or COPO trumps it.
Anyhow, I’ll take a look at a couple of the suggestions and let you guys know. Vibrations have to be the most aggravating and puzzling piece of owning these old cars, but well worth the effort! I posted a pic below. Hopefully I did it correctly. 🙂