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[quote=”Disabled Automotive” post=175904]Well then it sounds like its time to go after that pump maybe the Impeller is spinning on the shaft or the fins have broken apart if there plastic.[/quote
ALSO IVE NOTICED THAT THE CLUTCH FAN NEVER STOPS TURNING.. AND THE FILL BOTTLE LEVEL NEVER MOVES FROM COLD TO OPP TEMP
[quote=”Disabled Automotive” post=175900]Starting to sound like the pump is pooched or maybe the thermostat is stuck open.
If i remember correctly you changed the t-stat but it wouldn’t be the first that iv come across that was bad right out of the box.
I gather that this is a ford 302?
Out of all the fords water pumps iv replaced the 302 is the has been the most[/quote]
Nope its a 5.4 Triton. Also its a used engine i installed for a guy a few months ago.
i think the t stat maybe staying open because maybe the water pump is weak and the fluids hot…but thats my commen sense speaking. the t stat i tested btw and it works dandy
[quote=”Disabled Automotive” post=175886]Thanks Much!!!
Crossing my fingers hoping the hose gets hot.[/quote]
OK HERE ARE THE RESULTS!!I RAN THE TRUCK AT IDLE FOR 15 MINS..
THE UPPER HOSE THAT I BYPASSED THE HEATER CORE WITH AT THE FIREWALL STAYED COOL., BUT THE METAL PIPE THAT COMES FROM THE TOP OF THE ENGINE THAT SUPPLIES THE FLUID WAS VERY HOT, JUST THE HOSE WAS COOL
THE UPPER RAD HOSE GOT HOT AND THE ENGINE TEMP WAS AT NORMALSOOO THEN I IDLED UP TO 2500 RPM AND AFTER A FEW MINS THE BYPASS HOSE GOT WARM.THEN EVENTULLY HOT.. SO IT APPEARS THE ONLY TIME I GET FLOW THOUGH THAT BYPASS LINE IS WHEN IM REVING MEANING THAT AT IDLE I DONT HAVE ENOUGH PUMP PRESSURE TO SUPPLY THE WHOLE SYSTEM
BUTTTTT THE ENGINE TEMP NEVER GETS HOT????
WTF
WATER PUMP??Good to know, much respect on keeping on with wrenching.. its a pain in the ass with all limbs most days, but its the passion that keeps us comming back for more lol. cheers and ile update with the results
[quote=”Disabled Automotive” post=175874]Seeing that all the bases have been covered in your other post this is what i would do.
Just for a test bypass the the heater core run the engine up to temp and see if the bypass hose is hot and if so the you will know its the core.[/quote]
I havent tried that yet.. so i will give it a go, thanks..
also not to be rude, but why Disabled Automotive?[quote=”CrazedAssassin” post=175733]That’s my only thought since we’ve eliminated everything else.
They usually start weeping water out of the holes when they go bad though.[/quote]
so i revved bled and reved the bubbles out got 50 degrees from the vent… the hole time the motor fan on the engine was on… i think it maybe blowing on the motor keeping the lines too kool maybe? i think the clutch fan it shotIm starting to think the water pump might be on the way out actully, maybe its not creating enough presure to go through the whole system??
[quote=”CrazedAssassin” post=175729]If you have great flow out that tube and the rubber tube that connects to it isn’t clogged then that tube should get hot when the engine is at operating temperature.
Just to be clear on what you said before…both tubes that go to the heater core (not the fat radiator hose) are cold when engine is at operating temperature?[/quote]
at regular running temp the rear hoses to the heater core are not hot.. not even warm
[quote=”Evil-i” post=175726]I mean the narrow inlet hose to the heater core, not the fat rad hose. (Where does the narrow heater inlet hose connect to the engine?) And I meant the old thermostat, not the new one.
Sorry if I wasn’t clear.[/quote]
Theres a metal tube on the passenger side on the rear of the engine that the inlet hose connects to..i also started the truck w that hose off and had great flow from that metal tube
[quote=”Evil-i” post=175722]What gets me is that you say the heater inlet hose flows coolant when you checked it, but doesn’t get hot.
Makes me think there’s “something” floating around where the inlet hose connects to the engine, and is blocking the flow on an intermittent basis. Does the inlet hose attach to the engine near the thermostat? If the old thermostat fell apart, there could be some pieces swirling around in there.[/quote]
the inlet hose from the bottom of the rad to the bottom of the engine, there is no obstruction i dont think because the truck runs at a normal temp and never overheats
also it has a brand new t stat and o ring.
this what what i just blew w air out of the heater core, it had fluid in it and this is the red antifreeze i use not even dis colored
ive done that.. ive flushed the core backwards w aire and then put clr in it and let it set then flushed the core again w water
I flowed water through the heater core…no block…i also started the engine with the hose off and fluid came from the core supply line.. its definetly a mystery as to why theres no heat thats for sure but ive bled the lines (burped) and nothing…i have to rule out air bubble because even while driving at high rpm thers no heat.. and the door functions properlly as ive tested it and it opens and closes.. the t stats opens fine as the top rad hose gets hot and the engine temp stays normal so i know i have flow…SOOOOOO there i am with 2 possabilities left…weak water pump or clogged lining in the heater core??
[quote=”deji” post=175701]@ MacDonnell, do you mean to say that there may be a vacuum leak due to a crack in the air intake tract ?[/quote]
Long story short, I had a 95 mx3 v6 that when first started its idled up fine until running temp was normal…then its like the idle would rev up and down constantly until you hit the gas to go then it drove normal…
all i did was electrical tape the minor crack and that was fixedAnother possability for example
I had a 95 trans am v6 that also ran fine until normal running temp and it would idle funny not take gas and stall…then not re start… the coul would get hot and break down…i put a new coil in and ta daaa…fixed