[M-TL]

Anyone know why the pics aren’t showing, I imbedded them as:
“[IMG]http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=9865&pictureid=47711[/IMG]”
“[IMG]http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=9865&pictureid=47712[/IMG]”
“[IMG]http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=9865&pictureid=47713[/IMG]”

I could see them during the preview, but nothing now…

[M-TL]

Quoted From dreamer2355:

Those spark plugs look pretty normal. As for the rust, well that could be down to moisture building up around the lower of the ignition wire. Have you tried dielectric grease?

Do you have the ability to post a video of this ‘slapping’ noise? Piston slap sounds like a hollow sound that is most noticeable on acceleration.

Have you tired to isolate the engine noise by disabling 1 cylinder at a time to see if your engine noise disappears? Thatis one way of checking for a rod knock and so forth.

If it’s just moisture, that’s reassuring, as I wondered if that was a burnt color (and not just rust). I did install the new plugs with dielectric grease (on the ceramic end), as well as a touch of anti-seize on the threads.

I will try to post a vid on youtube regarding the noise.

I didn’t know I could safely disable one cylinder at a time. (I thought it would cause the engine to stumble and trigger a code and the CEL.) Do I do this by just removing the ignition wire off the spark plug, one at a time with the engine running and then listening while giving some gas?

Eric, I double checked all the valves by swiping the feeler gauge while pulling the valve up with the other hand. I thought your comment in the vid was that it was better slightly too loose, than slightly too tight. So while pulling up on the valve, the gauge had drag but without getting jammed up. I made sure that it wasn’t so loose so that the feeler gauge had vertical play (up and down).

Also I did put a dab of gasket sealant (though not Honda brand, Permatex I think) on the corners around the cam arches. There was no mention in the vid if this was required, or if I could even reuse the old gasket. Some DIY treads mentioned to dab the corners. I hope that was the right move…

Thanks for the replies folks.
Josh

[M-TL]

Quoted From 3SheetsDiesel:

Also, since you live in a place where everything rusts, I imagine that you already know about Anti-Seize compound. It’s your friend on this sort of thing. Just don’t put it on the tapered parts of the suspension components, like the part of the ball joint that goes through the knuckle, or you won’t be able to tighten the nut down. I found that one out the hard way.

Also, I don’t believe that you can but upper ball joints seperately from the upper control arms for your car, but I could be wrong. I’ve never seen them sold as anything other than a complete UCA though.

Anti-seize is my best friend… Thanks for the tip on not applying it on the ball joint, I definitely would have applied it otherwise!

You are right about the upper arm; hence the cost 130$ OEM (each) or 75$ jobber. I ordered jobber on this one as it was too much…

I also couldn’t find the ball joint in the knuckle on majestic honda’s website (ditto bernardi honda). I ordered it elsewhere (autopartsway dot ca) that had Japan-made ball joints for 32$ each. I know how to replace them thanks to Eric’s vid on the messed up Accord (where the ball joint gave way).

As to the other poster, if you think NYC winters are tough, it’s even worse here. Definitely need to get these done before it starts getting cold (when just holding a wrench can freeze your fingers off! I do my work in my driveway, not in my garage) Thanks for your responses.

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