[Duncan]

From the description the clutch sounds not in it’s first flush of youth, but still servicable.It’s not juddering which is a good sign. Often clutches on their last legs can judder when driving away from rest.
Bite point should normally be about half to 3/4 up, but if you check the workshop manual there should be a specification for pedal position.
(Note I’m not familiar with this car, but I’ve driven manuals since I got my licence) If there is a manual adjustment, try adjusting it, or if it has a cable that’s auto adjusted check that the adjuster is behaving itself
Failing clutches will show up typically under load (so slipping at highway speeds, or going up hill)
I test them by putting the vehicle into first gear with the handbrake on then releasing the clutch slowly with the engine at a fast idle – like you’d use to drive off. If the car dips down, and almost stalls – it’s still got life in it
My 10p worth. At least changing a clutch in a Toyota if needed isa lot quicker and lighter than doing it in something like a landrover – Them boxes are heavy to shift

[Duncan]

Copper grease is what I use. Works well for me

[Duncan]

[quote=”KATT302MAV” post=157705]i have a car at work right now that has rotten food all over and infested with roaches. it’s the fourth bomb that we threw in it and they still crawling everywhere.[/quote]

You win
:sick: :sick: :sick:

Roach bomb or petrol bomb?
I think option #2 may be best
😉

[Duncan]

Is there a difference in the creaking if it has been raining, or when it’s dry.
I’m thinking suspension bushes. they sometimes quieten down if they are wet as the water acts as a lubricant if they’re worn

[Duncan]

I sell cleaning chemicals.
I had to sort out an ambulance that had been used on a racecourse, and exposed to mud and horses. Luckily it hadn’t been used in anger for that meeting.

Trouble is mud and horses = lots of fungal spores.

They found this out after a couple of weeks when it had been parked in the back of the station in the cold damp autumn. What have you got for removing mushrooms from the door trims (Yes mushrooms, not mould)

Didn’t ask if they threw them in a breakfast fry up

[Duncan]

Update on this.
As mentioned, a top end service of the ignition parts did perk it up, but it was a bit flat. I thought it felt a bit like an old car with a manual choke, that wasn’t quite pulled out far enough when cold.
I changed out the coolant temperature sensor for a new one and it seems to have done the trick. The temperature guage doesn’t rise as quickly as it did, even though when the car is fully warmed up the end position is the same.
So it seems that the CTS had gone non-linear, ensuring that enrichment during warm up cut out faster than it should.

A good blat down the motorway proves that fuel delivery is sufficient, however, I did get a spare fuel filter, which apparently is built into the in tank fuel pump, which has to be dismantled to change it (Whoever thought that one up needs a few things explaining to them with a half inch breaker bar).
That can wait until the weather is better, and the Daily Driver discovery is deemed worthy of an MOT, as I want to have a back-up car fully working in case I have to break out the welding equipment on Solihull’s finest.

[Duncan]

Thanks for the reply.
As I understand it it has the glorified plastic strainer over the in tank fuel pump. The only replaceable item in the engine bay is a vapour canister that draws fumes out of the tank, and sucks them into the manifold for burning when the engine is running.
I’ve dumped a bunch of injector cleaner into the fuel to see if that helps perk things up a bit

cheers

[Duncan]

The quick and dirty test to tell if a clutch is past it’s best is to put the car in first gear with the handbrake on, then with the engine at a brisk idle (around 1500 rpm – YMMV) slowly bring the clutch pedal up.
The car should hunker down when the pedal is half engaged and stall out when the clutch is fully engaged.
If it sort of fades out, the clutch is thin, but will need doing soon. If it doesn’t stall at all, the clutch is already slipping, and if the car moves forwards down the road, your clutch is probably OK, but you should adjust your handbrake

[Duncan]

The quick and dirty test to tell if a clutch is past it’s best is to put the car in first gear with the handbrake on, then with the engine at a brisk idle (around 1500 rpm – YMMV) slowly bring the clutch pedal up.
The car should hunker down when the pedal is half engaged and stall out when the clutch is fully engaged.
If it sort of fades out, the clutch is thin, but will need doing soon. If it doesn’t stall at all, the clutch is already slipping, and if the car moves forwards down the road, your clutch is probably OK, but you should adjust your handbrake

[Duncan]

If parts of the suspension were mangled on that side, it would be a good idea to replace the driveshaft anyway, as it could well have bent. If you are worried about remanufactured stuff, go to a breakers / dismantlers and get one from there. You can check it all looks good before you buy

[Duncan]

If parts of the suspension were mangled on that side, it would be a good idea to replace the driveshaft anyway, as it could well have bent. If you are worried about remanufactured stuff, go to a breakers / dismantlers and get one from there. You can check it all looks good before you buy

[Author]

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