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I love my off-set ratchet. But I am currently in love with my ratcheting flare nut wrenches. Just because they have been making life a little easier.
It’s hard to tell just from freeze frame. The freeze frames you provided look normal. Can you see live data? Do you have an infrared thermometer? The readings I see and what you have said do not indicate a bad cat, but it’s always safe to check. You already replaced and said you checked the wiring. I would also check grounds, then connections at the PCM. Seems like you are having an intermediate problem. Sometimes the terminals can be the fault. They are a spring metal and can sometimes loose their spring and not contact as they should. My advice is to follow the wiring and look for anything loose, rubbed, burnt, the obvious. Then checking the contacts at the PCM. Best way to check is just to compare the terminals to each other. Just my experience. Hope it helps. Report back when you do find the issue.
[quote=”MDK22″ post=132092]New handle, with a piece of conduit sleeved over the top as miss strike protection. Wood wedge. Double steel wedge it. Use a carbide bit cut out about 1/8″ and fill it with epoxy. If ya have to fix it fix it right. Just make sure when you place the wedges you do it on a diagonal and that you get it as close to the center line the length of the head as possible. Then make sure 1/8″ isn’t going to be enough to effect the wedges. Might take 2-3 days to dry but if you do that odds are unless you snap the handle it ain’t coming loose till you wear out the handle.
Also always take the staple out of the bottom of the new handle before you do anything else. Also I would dry fit the head.
There are 2 great videos on how to properly put a handle on a sledge in this video list:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL-gZT3I9va10kKHyZRdAE-1WnVoGI2QTW%5B/quote%5DThat is some amazing info! I myself try not to use a sledge but have a 5lb and 10lb from my days of doing fleet work. But I am actually going to save this info for myself and other techs. You don’t realize how dangerous a hammer head can be until it’s not secure on the handle.
Had a similar thing happen. Lube tech was filling a lift that had the reservoir on the side. He didn’t put the cap on and lowered it, shot all the fluid on the car I had on the alignment rack. Luckily it was the passenger side and the window wasn’t down. But it was a nice mess he had to clean up.
About 10 years ago I was working at a GM dealership. I was new to the field, had only been out of school for a year and a half. Customer came in and had a funky whining noise coming from the rear. Determined it was the pinion bearing in the rear end. I had never done one before but didn’t seem like anything tricky and it’s not. Got everything done and took it for a drive. Sounded great and then it started, whining and gradually into a grinding almost clunking. Get it back on the lift and open up the diff. New pinion bearing is destroyed. The problem. I didn’t correctly set the rotational torque for the bearing. So I destroyed a new bearing and race and had to redo all of my work. It was a good learning experience. Have rebuilt many rear ends since and haven’t not made that mistake since.
I had a bad one when I was first starting off. Was working for a GM dealer, in the interview it sounded great. Was going to do the GM training, had a great master tech who worked there and would be able to show me stuff and help out. Start out hourly and when my production got to where it should switch to flat. Sounded fantastic. They stuck me with jobs that were way over my skill level for the time, no techs helped, service writer rode my ass the whole time about being to slow. I was there for maybe 3 months. Finally one day after my service writer chewing my ass again I finished the job I was on, pulled the car out, pulled my truck in and loaded my box up. Service writer came over with this dumb founded look in his and face and said “what are you doing?” Said some lovely words that made me feel better and proceeded on to find a new shop. I remember the first job I had in a shop and the lead tech said, know why there are wheels on a toolbox? So it’s easier to move it to the next shop.
Honda warranty rates suck. All warranty rates suck nut I remember a few that were way off from what any other source said. The one that sticks out in my mind was doing a short block on an Odyssey. Warranty was something like 10.1 and alldata showed 19 something. And yeah, electrical diag flat rate is a joke. Had to chase a gremlin once that cost me half a day. Writer managed to get me .9. Oh well. It’s how flat rate goes.
Most of us have had the experience of working with a bad shop manager. From the way it sounds there is not much you can do. You can bring up your concerns as you would do in any job. But my suggestion would be start looking for a new shop. Sounds like something shady is going on. My worst was working at a Honda dealer and was just breaking 40 on flat rate, then for some reason they hired another tech. Killed all of us. Not much you can do about it. That’s why our tool boxes have wheels. Easier to move them to a new shop. Hope it works out or you find another that is a good shop.
Most of us have had the experience of working with a bad shop manager. From the way it sounds there is not much you can do. You can bring up your concerns as you would do in any job. But my suggestion would be start looking for a new shop. Sounds like something shady is going on. My worst was working at a Honda dealer and was just breaking 40 on flat rate, then for some reason they hired another tech. Killed all of us. Not much you can do about it. That’s why our tool boxes have wheels. Easier to move them to a new shop. Hope it works out or you find another that is a good shop.
Hello everyone, names Brandon. I’m an ASE Master Tech, graduated from WIT in Automotive Tech. Currently run an independent shop that specializes in fleet maintenance. I had worked for a GM and Honda dealer before my current shop. Hope to be able to help out in anyway,