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Thank you for the explanation of ignition coil theory of operation. I actually intended to specifically request that very thing in my original post, but I plain forgot.
Your explanation, combined with scope output I cited, I should infer 1) that the original coils (circa 2000) contain caps; AND, 2) each cap within each ignition coil may (coincidentally) be failing (by spiking to negative). Am I correct?
I’m tempted to replace this set with new; however, I’m not convinced the problem is isolated to aging ignition coils. I’m in the midst of the technician’s test using a set of his ‘known-good’ coils. After three days and ~100 miles, I get the same series of P-codes. (We scoped his coils for comparative purposes; the square waveform showed a discharge to zero–never into negative voltage).
I don’t feel like I’m making progress finding this gremlin.
Thank you for the explanation of ignition coil theory of operation. I actually intended to specifically request that very thing in my original post, but I plain forgot.
Your explanation, combined with scope output I cited, I should infer 1) that the original coils (circa 2000) contain caps; AND, 2) each cap within each ignition coil may (coincidentally) be failing (by spiking to negative). Am I correct?
I’m tempted to replace this set with new; however, I’m not convinced the problem is isolated to aging ignition coils. I’m in the midst of the technician’s test using a set of his ‘known-good’ coils. After three days and ~100 miles, I get the same series of P-codes. (We scoped his coils for comparative purposes; the square waveform showed a discharge to zero–never into negative voltage).
I don’t feel like I’m making progress finding this gremlin.
Thanks for the responses.
I bailed on the OTC idea and replaced the fuel injectors (FI)–they are OE with 105k miles. That decision presented a new dilemma: remove and professionally clean the existing FIs, purchase new OEM, purchase aftermarket refurbs. I chose the latter (http://www.python-injection.com).
Subsequent to replacing the FIs, the car runs normally and the Actron reads no codes. However, gas mileage shows no improvement. I am frustrated since this entire exercise–ultimately–is about improving fuel economy.
I saved the original FIs. I may have them professionally cleaned (http://www.rceng.com) to serve as replacements should the aftermarket FIs misbehave.
Thanks for the responses.
I bailed on the OTC idea and replaced the fuel injectors (FI)–they are OE with 105k miles. That decision presented a new dilemma: remove and professionally clean the existing FIs, purchase new OEM, purchase aftermarket refurbs. I chose the latter (http://www.python-injection.com).
Subsequent to replacing the FIs, the car runs normally and the Actron reads no codes. However, gas mileage shows no improvement. I am frustrated since this entire exercise–ultimately–is about improving fuel economy.
I saved the original FIs. I may have them professionally cleaned (http://www.rceng.com) to serve as replacements should the aftermarket FIs misbehave.
Eric, et al…
Thanks for the suggestion.
This is the V6, btw…The most typical symptom of a problematic IAC is “idle hunting” (or whatever the correct term/phrase is) where the engine RPM cyclically revs from, say, 1000 to 2000 AND the engine doesn’t stall. Neither symptom fits here.
In my case the engine doesn’t hunt at all. Instead, it stalls in park/neutral, and runs rough when the transmission is engaged. Additionally my engine problem only occurs after the car has been started after the car has sat for a while after being driven–but not always (grrrr…) while a faulty IAC typically shows the hunting symptom at every engine start.
Do you still think the IAC is a likely culprit? Would you characterize what I’ve described as a problem with the idle?
