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I thoroughly cleaned the engine top to bottom with Purple Power and a garden hose prior to a two hour drive. Afterwards, I jacked up the car and reinspected the suspect areas.
Oil seepage appears camshaft thrust cover assembly; no seepage from oil cap or valve cover gasket in this area.
Oil seepage/leakage hasn’t appeared from the oil pressure switch… yet.
I’ll reinspect again after a few more miles/hours of driving.
Thanks for your helpful reply.
“…looks like the…o-ring behind the [camshaft thrust cover might be] leaking…”
I also suspect the o-ring is the source of the leak in this area. I’ve not worked on this part before; hopefully it’s a straightforward change-out and I don’t misalign the camshaft in the process.“…looks like there might be a bit of a coolant leak there also.”
The coolant residue is likely from when I purged air from the engine coolant temp sensor (far to the right in the image).“If you do have very small cracks in the oil pan, you should be able to simply wipe it off and wait to see if oil seeps out again”
I’ve gotten a few corroborative responses about this image. The consensus is that the “cracks” are not cracks at all but superficial surface fractures formed during manufacture, and a fairly common phenomenon with this part. I remain suspicious: the fresh oil that coats the entire bottom of the pan has no obvious source (gravity notwithstanding) AND there is apparent “frothing” that follows the fracture lines (see image). I plan on dropping the oil pan to replace the seal (with a fresh bead of RTV). With oil pan in hand, I’ll thoroughly clean and inspect the innards (though an OEM replacement is $50). Prior to doing that nasty job, however, I’ll blast the thing with engine degreaser, drive the car a bit, then inspect.“…the oil pressure switch…are common leakers and could be one of the things leaking.”
Do I really need to replace the part, or just its gasket?Thanks for the feedback on the significance of the color of the grease. You’ve validated the importance of including clear pictures within a post. I’m going to replace the entire left side driveshaft assembly (44306-SHJ-A01).
Interesting you ask about brake noise…
The rattle only occurs when I roll over bumps or road imperfections. However, intermittently over the past few months, I get a grinding/scrunching noise from one of the corners when I brake–I’ve never been able to identify which, as the sound telegraphs into the cabin and I can never hear it from outside the van. I did a full brake job on all the corners, but the sound returned–then disappeared–then returned, etc etc…But wait. There’s more.
Occasionally, when I drive at a sustained speed within 20-40mph, I hear an intermittent metallic rattling/ringing sound (imagine the noise a loose heat shield might make) with coinciding subtle vibration in the steering wheel. The noise ceases immediately when I let off or pop the gas pedal. Sometimes it returns; other times it does not.So there you have it: four seemingly unrelated-though-coincidental issues, each a symptom of eleventy-bazillion different things:
1) Blown-out inboard CV joint;
2) chronic “loose-suspension”-like sound when I drive over road imperfections;
3) occasional “grinding/scrunching”-like brake noise; and,
4) occasional “loose heat shield”-like rattle/ringing noise.I hope after I replace the left side driveshaft more than just that first item is fixed.
Success.
I replaced the IACV (16022-P8A-A03) after the cleaned-up original 15yo part did not fix the idle problem. We’ll see how the engine behaves over the coming days. I’m still incredulous the problem was with the IACV (…there’s just no pleasing some people.)
For those who find this thread after a keyword search of “engine surge” and its many, many variants… check your IACV!
Success.
I replaced the IACV (16022-P8A-A03) after the cleaned-up original 15yo part did not fix the idle problem. We’ll see how the engine behaves over the coming days. I’m still incredulous the problem was with the IACV (…there’s just no pleasing some people.)
For those who find this thread after a keyword search of “engine surge” and its many, many variants… check your IACV!
I find it peculiar that the IAC valve would fail coincidental to replacing the TB–they’re on opposite sides of the engine!
But after stewing on this for a while, the only connection I see between the two is… coolant. Coolant is drained significantly with the removal of the water pump, and the IAC valve uses coolant temp to actuate. That’s the connection!
The thing is, a J30A1 3.0L V6 VTEC doesn’t have a coolant bleeder valve, which explains why there’s no such procedure in the ‘98-00 Accord Service Manual‘–perhaps the engineers designed some integral method to get the air out. I simply topped off the radiator w/coolant and ran the engine at ~2000rpm for ~5mins and added more as necessary. Still the engine surges (hunts, pulses, whatever…).
I’m not getting a P0505 code (or any codes, for that matter) so I don’t suspect a bad IACV. However, I do recognize the possibility that the IACV may be clogged or suffering an air lock within its coolant chamber. And given the fact that the thing is 1) a 15yo part that’s 2) never been serviced and 3) sat for a week without any coolant in it while I waited for the TB parts to arrive, it isn’t beyond reason that my gremlin may reside within.
So with some difficulty (Philips head screws? …really? Christ-on-a-cracker, Honda engineers! This isn’t a lawnmower carb!) I removed the IACV from beneath the throttle body and found mild carbon yuckiness. Nonetheless, it soaks in carb cleaner as I write this. I’ll re-attach after I confirm the valve portion can move freely (it doesn’t presently, from what I can feel). If that doesn’t solve the idle problem, I’ll purchase an aftermarket IACV and install it. And if that doesn’t do the trick, I’m driving the thing to the Honda shop.
I find it peculiar that the IAC valve would fail coincidental to replacing the TB–they’re on opposite sides of the engine!
But after stewing on this for a while, the only connection I see between the two is… coolant. Coolant is drained significantly with the removal of the water pump, and the IAC valve uses coolant temp to actuate. That’s the connection!
The thing is, a J30A1 3.0L V6 VTEC doesn’t have a coolant bleeder valve, which explains why there’s no such procedure in the ‘98-00 Accord Service Manual‘–perhaps the engineers designed some integral method to get the air out. I simply topped off the radiator w/coolant and ran the engine at ~2000rpm for ~5mins and added more as necessary. Still the engine surges (hunts, pulses, whatever…).
I’m not getting a P0505 code (or any codes, for that matter) so I don’t suspect a bad IACV. However, I do recognize the possibility that the IACV may be clogged or suffering an air lock within its coolant chamber. And given the fact that the thing is 1) a 15yo part that’s 2) never been serviced and 3) sat for a week without any coolant in it while I waited for the TB parts to arrive, it isn’t beyond reason that my gremlin may reside within.
So with some difficulty (Philips head screws? …really? Christ-on-a-cracker, Honda engineers! This isn’t a lawnmower carb!) I removed the IACV from beneath the throttle body and found mild carbon yuckiness. Nonetheless, it soaks in carb cleaner as I write this. I’ll re-attach after I confirm the valve portion can move freely (it doesn’t presently, from what I can feel). If that doesn’t solve the idle problem, I’ll purchase an aftermarket IACV and install it. And if that doesn’t do the trick, I’m driving the thing to the Honda shop.
It seems the problem is the actuator.
I left out a detail in my problem description: warm air blows from the drivers-side vents even when the fan is OFF. This seemed indicative of a stuck damper, and as such, should be relatively easy to test.
I popped open the manual and set the electronic circulation controls to the equivalent of “vent”, presuming doing so would force actuation of the dampers. To my surprise, outside cool air blew from the drivers-side vents (it was cool today). I subsequently switched to A/C–and cold air blew from the drivers-side vents.
Problem–at least for the moment–is resolved; intuition the only tool required.
It seems the problem is the actuator.
I left out a detail in my problem description: warm air blows from the drivers-side vents even when the fan is OFF. This seemed indicative of a stuck damper, and as such, should be relatively easy to test.
I popped open the manual and set the electronic circulation controls to the equivalent of “vent”, presuming doing so would force actuation of the dampers. To my surprise, outside cool air blew from the drivers-side vents (it was cool today). I subsequently switched to A/C–and cold air blew from the drivers-side vents.
Problem–at least for the moment–is resolved; intuition the only tool required.
I’ve heard failed bushing noises before; the sound coming from this 2000 Accord isn’t the scrunching metal or dull clunk typical of those sources emanating from the other side of the floorboard. This sound is much more subtle, nearer, and more intermittent. Imagine a Sharpie rolling back and forth in the passenger door cubbie–that’s what one of the sounds is like.
Nonetheless, I intend to jack up the car (again) and inspect the linkages and bushings. I’m hopeful that something will appear more obvious to me this time, but admittedly I’m pessimistic.
Continuing in the spirit of pessimism…
Given the characteristic of the sounds I’ve described, what is the likelihood a popped spot-weld could be the source?I’ve heard failed bushing noises before; the sound coming from this 2000 Accord isn’t the scrunching metal or dull clunk typical of those sources emanating from the other side of the floorboard. This sound is much more subtle, nearer, and more intermittent. Imagine a Sharpie rolling back and forth in the passenger door cubbie–that’s what one of the sounds is like.
Nonetheless, I intend to jack up the car (again) and inspect the linkages and bushings. I’m hopeful that something will appear more obvious to me this time, but admittedly I’m pessimistic.
Continuing in the spirit of pessimism…
Given the characteristic of the sounds I’ve described, what is the likelihood a popped spot-weld could be the source?y’know.. I must’ve spent an hour playing the “YouTube keyword search” game hunting for relevant content relating to my problem. Thank you, College Man, for including that video in your reply.
I share the symptoms the fellow in the video describes. A dealership service technician diagnosed his problem as a Freon leak and performed the necessary repair. I lack a Freon recovery/charging equipment and access to Traceline. I’ll relegate the possibility of a Freon leak to the end of the “likely causes” list.
In the meanwhile, I hope the source of the problem is the “Mode Adjust Motor Actuator” (p/n: 79140-SHJ-A01), a $70 part that’s within my tool-range. T’shooting it in earnest commences this weekend.
y’know.. I must’ve spent an hour playing the “YouTube keyword search” game hunting for relevant content relating to my problem. Thank you, College Man, for including that video in your reply.
I share the symptoms the fellow in the video describes. A dealership service technician diagnosed his problem as a Freon leak and performed the necessary repair. I lack a Freon recovery/charging equipment and access to Traceline. I’ll relegate the possibility of a Freon leak to the end of the “likely causes” list.
In the meanwhile, I hope the source of the problem is the “Mode Adjust Motor Actuator” (p/n: 79140-SHJ-A01), a $70 part that’s within my tool-range. T’shooting it in earnest commences this weekend.
“The negative backswing isn’t important, the important part is to have the strong positive spark pulse.”
Exactly the information I was looking for. Thank you for validating my suspicion.
When the mechanic showed me the disparate waveforms between the original and “known-good” coils, he focused on the negative backswing as a possible cause of the misfire codes. When I pressed him about the significance of that negative backswing, he cited the “failing cap” theory. However, he would not commit to the coils being the definitive source of the misfire codes–and so, he moved to the next t-shooting step of swapping coil sets for comparative performance; iow, see if the car runs ok without throwing any misfire codes. So, from my perspective, the mechanic seems to be on track with his step-by-step process of eliminating variables.
Your comment concerning “…old plugs, air leaks, and the others” aligns with t-shooting work I performed months before I presented the car to the mechanic.
In Jan. 2013, I replaced the plugs and the injectors; I [color=#0000ff]carb-cleaner method[/color]‘. I must mention at this point that I did this work as part of t-shooting a different issue (read my thread on it in this forum by clicking [color=#0000ff”>here) The stalling problem went dormant for a few months, then returned accompanied by the P-codes mentioned previously–which was new–and I decided it was time to let a Honda tech investigate the problem… which brings us to this point.
Your recommendation to “…start looking at other causes for the random misfire codes…” aligns with the Honda tech’s opinion. He suggests that, after eliminating plugs, coils, etc., as the source of the misfire codes, we should next check th’ valves–and adjust, if needed. I am reluctant to go this route, for apart from the expense, I cannot understand a direct connection between the valve play and misfire codes… yet.
My goal is to ferret out and resolve this problem with the misfire codes, and then resume the search for a solution to the stalling problem. While the results of the “known-good” test seems to rule out the coils as the source of the misfire, it sure doesn’t seem like I’m making much progress.
“The negative backswing isn’t important, the important part is to have the strong positive spark pulse.”
Exactly the information I was looking for. Thank you for validating my suspicion.
When the mechanic showed me the disparate waveforms between the original and “known-good” coils, he focused on the negative backswing as a possible cause of the misfire codes. When I pressed him about the significance of that negative backswing, he cited the “failing cap” theory. However, he would not commit to the coils being the definitive source of the misfire codes–and so, he moved to the next t-shooting step of swapping coil sets for comparative performance; iow, see if the car runs ok without throwing any misfire codes. So, from my perspective, the mechanic seems to be on track with his step-by-step process of eliminating variables.
Your comment concerning “…old plugs, air leaks, and the others” aligns with t-shooting work I performed months before I presented the car to the mechanic.
In Jan. 2013, I replaced the plugs and the injectors; I [color=#0000ff]carb-cleaner method[/color]‘. I must mention at this point that I did this work as part of t-shooting a different issue (read my thread on it in this forum by clicking [color=#0000ff”>here) The stalling problem went dormant for a few months, then returned accompanied by the P-codes mentioned previously–which was new–and I decided it was time to let a Honda tech investigate the problem… which brings us to this point.
Your recommendation to “…start looking at other causes for the random misfire codes…” aligns with the Honda tech’s opinion. He suggests that, after eliminating plugs, coils, etc., as the source of the misfire codes, we should next check th’ valves–and adjust, if needed. I am reluctant to go this route, for apart from the expense, I cannot understand a direct connection between the valve play and misfire codes… yet.
My goal is to ferret out and resolve this problem with the misfire codes, and then resume the search for a solution to the stalling problem. While the results of the “known-good” test seems to rule out the coils as the source of the misfire, it sure doesn’t seem like I’m making much progress.
