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hmm…
That is a really intuitive thought. And just to validate your notion, it does appear that a more recent iteration of the timing chain cover exists–Hyundai OEM p/n “21351-3C123” supersedes “21351-3C120”.But here’s the thing…
On Hyundai’s Lambda engines, the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley is strictly for timing reference; it is not fundamental for setting timing in the way that, say, the timing mark is on the Honda J-series’ crankshaft pulley.Nevertheless, your speculation is probably correct.
The fact that it’ll cost ~$350 for a timing cover/balancer set to get matching timing marks that are not necessary to set engine timing means things under the hood will remain status quo. But methinks it’d be prudent to hang on to that old balancer just to preserve a “known good” reference for aligned timing marks on this engine.
So you didn’t notice that snap ring beneath the clutch plate (“item 3” in the image you attached to your response)..? Its sole function is to hold the pulley securely with zero play along the compressor shaft. That snap ring (“item 3”) must be removed before the three-jaw puller is set on the pulley. And the clutch plate must be removed to access that snap ring (“item 3”).
Also, using a threaded bolt into the compressor shaft as something to push against for the removal of something else is… ill advised.
Oil change with full synthetic at ~5k for the past decade. Prior to that, conventional oil at ~3k.
So you think the carbon is an effect of heat. Interesting notion…
…test the wires that go to the coil and make sure it’s actually getting power.
The harness feed to the compressor clutch is ok.
I get continuity from the contactor under the AC clutch relay in the junction block (a.k.a, “relay box”) to the pin inside the compressor clutch connector.The relay is ok.
Early in my diagnostics, I tested both the fuse and the relay. I swapped the working headlamp relay (same part no.) with no effect on the clutch while the headlamps worked with the A/C clutch relay. Next, I checked for 12v constant to the relay at the junction block. The “30” contactor reads constant hot, and “87” shows continuity to ground, as both should. However, with A/C on high (at the console) I get no value from either “86” or “85”, the ECU pilot signal/ground connectors; thus my concern this may indicate an upstream issue, and which I mentioned in my initial post.Compressor Coil Testing.
My DVM reads ‘no resistance‘ and ‘no continuity’ between the comp case and connector. (I tested the comp coil with the compressor mounted, so my results include that caveat). The harness feed to the compressor clutch is ok. I get continuity from the contactor under the AC clutch relay in the junction block (a.k.a, “relay box”) to the pin inside the compressor clutch connector. I also ran a 12v feed directly to the coil connector with no effect.I believe I have a bad coil.
With the compressor mounted, I ran 12v directly into the connector–no click. I checked continuity–open circuit. I’ve ordered a coil (oem:97641-3K220, and a clutch (oem: 97644-3K120–I am NOT replacing the pulley and/or bearing. Space is crazy tight near the compressor; I hope I can remove the four mount bolts and drop the compressor; clearly, I want to avoid opening the system.
Still, one question continues to vex me: Why won’t the relay click when I operate the A/C control?
Unless I am missing an indication of a feedback loop in the wiring diagram, I see no reason the relay would not continue to receive an actuation voltage from the ECU/PCM, regardless of the coil state. Given this uncertainty and without benefit of a proper scan tool, I have zero confidence that the A/C on this car is gonna work after completing the onerous chore of replacing the coil and clutch.Healed!
I gotta confess, I doubted your suggestion. But readings don’t lie. Both H and L line pressures were quite low.
I added refrigerant (plus a bit of UV tracer., but no sealant) to within spec, and the cabin temperature immediately normalized. An evening look-see with the UV torch revealed no apparent leaks. We’ll keep an eye on the thermometer over the ensuing
weeks. Otherwise, this issue seems resolved.Healed!
“…reminds me of corroded connections”
I jump started the van. That fact combined with the comment above linking the “snap” sound and corroded connections led me to inspect the battery cables more closely. Turns out, the positive lead cable was corroded to its remaining wee conductor, which I discovered hidden ‘neath the red plastic insulator shroud thingy. I replaced the battery terminal and the problem disappeared.
“Low battery or system voltage can do weird thing to your car’s electrical system.”
Indeed.
“…confirm battery is fully charged and connections are clean and tight.”
Already on it.
I cleaned the terminals. Voltmeter reads 12.8. I can’t read amps, though, which is the value I really need.I’ll try a jump start next. If the engine turns over, I can pretty much conclude I have either a bad battery or a problem in the charging system.
The oil leak on my 2000 Accord seemed to originate from two locations: the camshaft thrust cover, and the oil pan mating surface. I repaired both items which fixed both leaks.
I replaced the o-ring (91301-P8A-A00) behind the camshaft thrust cover assembly (12230-P8A-A00), a stupid-easy job that sealed that source of leakage.
I removed the oil pan–a slightly less easy job–cleaned off the original 16yo RTV and scoured the pan to a shiny finish. I inspected the pan and confirmed that the cracks were in fact superficial. I applied a bead of Permatex Ultra Grey RTV to the pan mating surface and immediately mounted it to a similarly clean block, torqued the 10mm fasteners to spec, then let the thing rest for 24hrs. Upon return, I added oil and drove it for an hour or so. Days later, and no leaks.
The deed is done. I replace the left side driveshaft (44306-SHJ-A01), a job that was much easier than I expected.
I had hoped that by replacing the driveshaft, I’d knock-out four issues in one repair mentioned previously. Nope.
Turns out item 2 (‘chronic “loose-suspension”-like sound when I drive over road imperfections’) was caused by worn stabilizer links (51320-SHJ-A02) on both sides. Items 3 and 4 (‘occasional “grinding/scrunching”-like brake noise’ and, ‘occasional “loose heat shield”-like rattle/ringing noise’, respectively) remain mysteries of an intermittent kind.
UPDATE: Post-Engine Cleaning…
After cleaning the engine, I inspect above and below with a flashlight subsequent to each drive. I see no seepage around the vtec solenoid, oil pressure switch, or valve cover gaskets several days after cleaning the engine.
But then, after just four days and with a completely clean and dry engine, I see…
1) a thin line of shininess from the head gasket at the front left corner of the engine:
2) slight seepage reappears from the camshaft thrust cover:
3) significant wetness again at the front right corner of the oil pan where the A/C compressor bolts to the block:
I cannot tell if it’s coming from the oil pan seal in this vicinity, or if it’s coming from somewhere higher up.
Though at this corner of the engine, above and around front, I see…4) a smallish pool of wetness midway down that is in a nook near the water pump. The service manual says some seepage of coolant from the water pump is normal.
The image below provides some orientation. (Use x-ray vision to see through the P/S hose that obscures the area of pooling.)
5) and today (5/20/2016), I see this on the transmission-side of the oil pan:
Oil is dripping with such fluidity from this area it is as if a seal has blown.I’m fairly well convinced the entire seal around the oil pan has failed and worsening; no more procrastinating this nasty project. But first I’ll replace the camshaft thrust cover o-ring. And I’m genuinely unhappy about the seepage from the head, particularly as this engine has never overheated.
