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my saturn does the high idle and rough idle thing when the intake is dirty. if the people before you ran shit gas through it all the time and never cleaned it, well it may have caused all these issues. You can try and seafoam it, it might work, but without removing the head, theres no way to tell how dirty it actually is.
I had to disassemble my intake last month for the high idle thing. I dont know what it is with these cars but it seems to foul out about once every other year, and thats with running chevron or shell not some random 40 cents cheaper a gallon gas. happens more often if the air filter is dirty. theres a sensor on the back of the intake manifold, held on with 2 8mm (i think) screws, take that off and use some carb clean on the sensor bit and in the hole too if you havent. if you need a picture i can get one but not right now as its raining like hell out.
my saturn does the high idle and rough idle thing when the intake is dirty. if the people before you ran shit gas through it all the time and never cleaned it, well it may have caused all these issues. You can try and seafoam it, it might work, but without removing the head, theres no way to tell how dirty it actually is.
I had to disassemble my intake last month for the high idle thing. I dont know what it is with these cars but it seems to foul out about once every other year, and thats with running chevron or shell not some random 40 cents cheaper a gallon gas. happens more often if the air filter is dirty. theres a sensor on the back of the intake manifold, held on with 2 8mm (i think) screws, take that off and use some carb clean on the sensor bit and in the hole too if you havent. if you need a picture i can get one but not right now as its raining like hell out.
incorrect: 1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse, CAI was hand made using exhaust tube, a cone filer from Oreillys and a CV Boot to go over the massive MAF those things have.
It sounded cool but could NOT have been reliable.
incorrect: 1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse, CAI was hand made using exhaust tube, a cone filer from Oreillys and a CV Boot to go over the massive MAF those things have.
It sounded cool but could NOT have been reliable.
words of note,
1:KBB only goes to 20 years old so anything older than 1993 wont be listed. You can have a car dealership give you trade in and retail values of the car you want to sell and then just price it in the middle.2:depending on the area you can sell a car on CL for over 2k. done that a few times. but thats because our local rag of a paper sucks and is EXTREMELY expensive (like 90-100.00 for a 3 line ad ran for 5 days)
3: Re:private party sales, change the oil, check the fluids, grease it too. nobody wants a squeaking pile of s*it and people wont get turned off by your car sounding like its going to fall apart going around the block.
4: and you also have the option of having co-oping with a car lot to do the advertising and showing and all that. they will take a portion of the sales price though, and will usually only do it for newer vehicles. Some will outright buy the car from you too no trade in necessary.
words of note,
1:KBB only goes to 20 years old so anything older than 1993 wont be listed. You can have a car dealership give you trade in and retail values of the car you want to sell and then just price it in the middle.2:depending on the area you can sell a car on CL for over 2k. done that a few times. but thats because our local rag of a paper sucks and is EXTREMELY expensive (like 90-100.00 for a 3 line ad ran for 5 days)
3: Re:private party sales, change the oil, check the fluids, grease it too. nobody wants a squeaking pile of s*it and people wont get turned off by your car sounding like its going to fall apart going around the block.
4: and you also have the option of having co-oping with a car lot to do the advertising and showing and all that. they will take a portion of the sales price though, and will usually only do it for newer vehicles. Some will outright buy the car from you too no trade in necessary.
I’ve had 7 used cars since the day i turned 16 and sold my mongoose for gas money. 2 biggest piles of sh*t ive owned were the ‘mini’ trucks, the first a 85 S10 Durango with a 2.8 shaker in it. spent more time and money on that pile than i did buying my first car. the second was a 93 Exploder. started off well went downhill fast. I picked up my truck in 98 with 99,950 on the odometer for 7900.00 first thing i did was mud the shit out of it, thus replacing the transmission. i got 12 years and 70k out of it before i had to start replacing a bunch of stuff. Rearend blew up on me, and locked up the transmission 3k in repairs right there. i figure i got my money out of it and was happy to put out the money for something i know intimately. I picked up my 9c1 for 700.00 guy wanted 1250 for it. i knew buying it it needed tons of work, but i had a parts car and a free summer so i went at it.
point is know what you are buying. when you test drive, if the salesman in the passenger seat isnt white from fright you arent testing the car properly. And always ask the detailmen and the service technicians about the car that you are looking at. if nobody is around you will probably get a better feel for the condition than the story the salesman will give you.
I’ve had 7 used cars since the day i turned 16 and sold my mongoose for gas money. 2 biggest piles of sh*t ive owned were the ‘mini’ trucks, the first a 85 S10 Durango with a 2.8 shaker in it. spent more time and money on that pile than i did buying my first car. the second was a 93 Exploder. started off well went downhill fast. I picked up my truck in 98 with 99,950 on the odometer for 7900.00 first thing i did was mud the shit out of it, thus replacing the transmission. i got 12 years and 70k out of it before i had to start replacing a bunch of stuff. Rearend blew up on me, and locked up the transmission 3k in repairs right there. i figure i got my money out of it and was happy to put out the money for something i know intimately. I picked up my 9c1 for 700.00 guy wanted 1250 for it. i knew buying it it needed tons of work, but i had a parts car and a free summer so i went at it.
point is know what you are buying. when you test drive, if the salesman in the passenger seat isnt white from fright you arent testing the car properly. And always ask the detailmen and the service technicians about the car that you are looking at. if nobody is around you will probably get a better feel for the condition than the story the salesman will give you.
i would stick with replacement. it makes it easier to replace if something happens. 300 miles from home and your coil goes out, a OE one you could go to any napa or autozone nearby and pick one up (or even a junk yard) and you be on your way. who knows if any of them would have the aftermarket one you installed. i have 175k on my coil no issues. its not a wearable part i dont think it either works or doesnt.
i would stick with replacement. it makes it easier to replace if something happens. 300 miles from home and your coil goes out, a OE one you could go to any napa or autozone nearby and pick one up (or even a junk yard) and you be on your way. who knows if any of them would have the aftermarket one you installed. i have 175k on my coil no issues. its not a wearable part i dont think it either works or doesnt.
make sure you are using the proper spark plugs in the engine. GM’s dont like autolites. learned that the hard way. AC Delco is recommended, even though i run E3 in mine because they fire in oil.also inspect the wires to make sure theres no cracks or breaks in the insulation of them. even new wires can have manufacturing defects in them. but if you are going through caps that fast i would say yes to the distributor replacement. google (or look on youtube) the procedure to see if theres anything out of the ordinary that is required for doing this swap. As for performance, you could call summit racing and talk to them about a distributor or jegs, but unless you are planning to hot rod your truck stick with OEM if possible.