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Just want to update this post. Man, talk about the tail chasing the dog. After repairing the wiring, getting the #5 cyl misfire fixed, we’d drive it 30 or so miles and STILL get the code P0022. so the only thing left to do was recheck everything. To make a long story short we found bank two VCT solenoid bad. The NEW solenoid we had replaced in the beginning of our process. Just goes back to the old saying, “Everything that glitters isn’t gold.” Lol or translated new doesn’t mean good, take nothing for granted. Special thanks to Jacob your steps helped with troubleshooting this one and thanks to all who replied. We’ve drove it about 100 miles since replacing the solenoid so I believe it’s a done deal. Take care guys.
Also something to keep in mind. I’ve seen this from time to time. While traveling on a bumpy surface, like say cobblestone or gravel, it’s possible to get an intermittent ABS light and nothing be wrong with the system. Double check it by driving on regular pavement. If you can’t duplicate it then you might want to try wiggling your wiring harnesses close to your sensors and see if you get a light also. Just a suggestion. Good luck.
Quoted From 380gb:
the Auto zone in my city makes you pretty much buy the kit then they give the money back to when you return it. so if the kit is $100 then you have to give them $100 to take the kit. then once you return it they give you all of your money back. idk if that’s how it is everywhere so u might just want to call around and hopefully they only ask for deposit. other than that idk of a procedure that removes ball joints with out the kits. have you tried looking around YouTube for a how to video?
Most Autozones do this. I have a full kit but depending upon the application I’ll use a hammer to remove them and the kit to install them. Like Dodge trucks lower ball joints are pretty easy to remove with a hammer. Plus if your having a bad day you’ll feel so much better after you get done 😉 . Good luck.
Most tool manufacturers make these long handled needle nose pliers in a combination of angles and straight I find Snap-on to be best when it come to these, although Mac and Matco make decent ones too. I have a set of Sears for the home tool box and their okay but for everyday use I wouldn’t recommend them. Just some fyi for you guys who only work at home. If you see a Snap-on truck or Mac dealer somewhere you can hop on the truck and buy from them too. they’ll gladly take your money, lol. Only difference is you’ll have to pay for the tools you purchase up front and in full where as if you worked as a professional mechanic they usually set us up on pay plans by the week. But trust me get their card and ask for a catalog and if you ever need something from them they’ll sell it to you. Good luck.
I’m sure your school has some type of purchase tool agreement with Snap-On, alot of schools do. I guess what scan tool you buy depends upon what you can afford and what you want to do with it. I can only speak from personal experience. I have a Modis and I like it but I feel like it’s way over priced. I bought it back when it first came out and was the hottest thing. Before that I had a Snap-On 2500 ‘red brick’ and the Snap-On Vantage meter. I still have those two along with the Modis and they’re just about indestructible. I’ve dropped the red brick numerous times left it near a hot engine, you name it, never had a problem with it. The Modis is good, especially if you learn how to use all that it has to offer. I really like having the 4 channel lab scope. But what ever you buy learning how to use it properly is the key because it’s just a tool and it just provides the information. It’s up to you to determine how to use it. Good luck.
This is a topic that will never end, “What’s the best tool?” I’ve been working professionally as a technician for 33 years, when I first got out of the military I went down to Sears, got a credit card and bought a small roll-a-way and some tools to get started with and I’ve been buying tools ever since. Here’s what I tell new guys starting out. Buy the best that you can afford. Be it Snap-on, Mac, or what-ever. Don’t short change yourself on the tools you use every day on a continuous basis, like impacts, ratchets, etc. Because poor tool quality leads to frustration and aggravation when the cheap socket strips a bolt or the impact doesn’t have enough torque to free up a nut and if your working flag hours you don’t have time to worry about if the tool is going to do the job or not having the tool because it broke and your tool guy says it’ll be 4 weeks before he can get it repaired for you. When you lay down the big bucks for your tools from a dealer like Snap-on for instance ask him/her what will they do for you if the $400 impact breaks. Will they give you a loaner? or your $4000 scanner locks up, will they give you something to use? Believe it or not some will. Just shop smart your paycheck depends on it. Just my 2 cents for what it’s worth. Btw, I still have some of those original Craftsman tools I bought S:)
Hey guys, sorry it’s been so long since updating this post. Had some family things that came up and delayed me getting back to this vehicle. Anyway, to let you know what’s been done so far in addition to the other items. The timing chain, tensioner and guides were changed since I last posted. After that the truck kept getting a cam sensor code. You could drive it about 30 or so miles and same as before it do fine and then suddenly would start to run rough, usually when you were slowing down for a stop sign or traffic light. We replaced the cam sensor. We found a loose connection on #5 ignition coil, repaired it and have driven it about 80 miles so far with no incident. We also found some damaged wiring going to the crank sensor and oil sensor, I’m assuming left over from the original time when the engine was removed and replaced. So needless to say it’s been a real nightmare but hopefully this beast will be on it’s merry way. Thanks for all the help.
Thanks for the replies. As for the mechanical timing. When the cam phasers were installed he checked his mechanical timing because the timing cover was removed, but will double-check. The vehicle isn’t missing or running bad just keep getting the codes. Will run through the steps provided by Jacob and see what we come up with.
We flushed the engine oil once already. Didn’t get to try any of the steps you suggested today was too busy with other cars but should be able to get to it tomorrow. Which passages are you referring to that become clogged? and have to clean with a brush. I was wondering too, why it jumped from one bank to the other after changing the phasers. Doesn’t run bad, I test drove it after the cam phasers were changed. It took awhile for the check engine light to come on but fortunately it did before we released it. Anyway I’ll keep you posted. Thanks
Put your hand on your wallet ( or purse) and run, run, run! At 28,000 miles you shouldn’r need it. And you might want to find another place to get your vehicle serviced W;)