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Update…
Some of you might kill me, but I still haven’t fixed this issue.
Also, it is mainly a rusty creaking type of noise, not sure why I put clunking.
The noise went away during the colder months, now that 70/45/80+ degree F weather is back the noise is back.
I did take it to a shop, but they couldn’t give me a good enough diagnosis and they also told me that my rear break pads needed changed (they have 8mm of thickness). I’m not really comfortable with their work, really don’t want to throw parts at the car.
@Patterz, I have seriously considered just changing the front strut assemblies.Ok, now that I have driven the car for a few more days I’m starting to understand it.
The noise oddly enough appears during warm temperatures, say 80 degrees.
Sorry, It is more of a creaky noise. The first thing I did when I came home from work was jack the car up and try to find the culprit; it was still 83 degrees outside.I couldn’t figure it out. Lower control arm has some play, but to my knowledge, it is a normal amount of movement. I used my jack to slowly jack the suspension up, I pushed on the corners of the car, but I can’t replicate the noise.
@Patterz, my previous car (Honda) had this issue, and it was an easy diagnosis. They appear solid on my Ford. I used a prybar on the end links and nothing appears unusual. Sway bar bushings visually look great.That was the first thing I looked at.
I didn’t mean to sound like a punk; I simply wanted to mention the faults with a calibration facility. In our modern high tech society, we haven’t perfected ‘verification’.
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/233-rb-2012-accent/138090-dealer-over-filling-oil.html
I didn’t mean to sound like a punk; I simply wanted to mention the faults with a calibration facility. In our modern high tech society, we haven’t perfected ‘verification’.
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/233-rb-2012-accent/138090-dealer-over-filling-oil.html
25,000+ miles a year :blink:… Hopefully you considered having it inspected and/or know what to look for yourself. Don’t forget the simple things like ‘cold’ starting it (don’t let the owner warm up the engine before you arrive :silly: ).
Personally, considering the miles, I would want the price to be within NADA clean trade-in ($3,700 ish); yeah, dealers hate me. However, that is about $1,500 less than the asking price, so the owner might be offended.
I think it could still have many miles left in it, but $5,200 can buy you a Vibe/Matrix with 100,000 miles LESS on the odometer.
I’d walk
25,000+ miles a year :blink:… Hopefully you considered having it inspected and/or know what to look for yourself. Don’t forget the simple things like ‘cold’ starting it (don’t let the owner warm up the engine before you arrive :silly: ).
Personally, considering the miles, I would want the price to be within NADA clean trade-in ($3,700 ish); yeah, dealers hate me. However, that is about $1,500 less than the asking price, so the owner might be offended.
I think it could still have many miles left in it, but $5,200 can buy you a Vibe/Matrix with 100,000 miles LESS on the odometer.
I’d walk
I was an owner of a 2005 Accord EX-L I4 (RIP)
The ‘ATX’ plug (V6 only) is the transmission fill hole, but either way you are safe using the dipstick. For comparison, my 4-cylinder Accord didn’t have the plug, and procedure called for filling through the dip stick.It’s recommended you use Honda AT fluid, apparently these transmissions get finicky using any other brand. Careful with the drain bolt washer, mine started to leak after too many uses (I have no one to blame but myself).
Not all of the fluid will drain out, so be careful not to over-fill and measure what comes out. Normal procedure I suppose, but I almost forgot one time.
I was absolutely blown away at how relatively simplistic preventive maintenance is on these cars.
I was an owner of a 2005 Accord EX-L I4 (RIP)
The ‘ATX’ plug (V6 only) is the transmission fill hole, but either way you are safe using the dipstick. For comparison, my 4-cylinder Accord didn’t have the plug, and procedure called for filling through the dip stick.It’s recommended you use Honda AT fluid, apparently these transmissions get finicky using any other brand. Careful with the drain bolt washer, mine started to leak after too many uses (I have no one to blame but myself).
Not all of the fluid will drain out, so be careful not to over-fill and measure what comes out. Normal procedure I suppose, but I almost forgot one time.
I was absolutely blown away at how relatively simplistic preventive maintenance is on these cars.
Correct me if I’m wrong, but lower cost… A drum brake also can serve as a parking brake, so you’re getting two for one. All modern cars with drum brakes are compact class (“cheaper” cars), and these cost saving measures add up.
The exception being those “loaded” Korean cars; Hyundai Elantra gets standard 4-way disc brakes.
Correct me if I’m wrong, but lower cost… A drum brake also can serve as a parking brake, so you’re getting two for one. All modern cars with drum brakes are compact class (“cheaper” cars), and these cost saving measures add up.
The exception being those “loaded” Korean cars; Hyundai Elantra gets standard 4-way disc brakes.
December 29, 2013 at 11:01 am in reply to: How to calibrate your own torque wrenches at home #565787I hate to sound like a prick, but the military monkey that ran the calibration may have not done things correctly. On top of that, the machine they use to calibrate with was also calibrated from another monkey… err, who knows what’s going on in the loop. :side:
I was a PME Calibration Technician in the Marine Corps, and personally had to pull someone aside because he was adjusting things way out of standard readings; I wasn’t even the TI Inspector (who so happened to stamp approve his work). At the end of the day, I helped changed procedures in hopes of keeping this from happening again; we also sent a report to Marine Headquarters but unfortunately never heard back from theme.
Maybe I’m over-analyzing, considering cars pull over when they break down and military aircraft… fall out of the sky when they break down. In most cases, most of the Marine techs I worked with worked with full integrity and with correct knowledge.
December 29, 2013 at 11:01 am in reply to: How to calibrate your own torque wrenches at home #572081I hate to sound like a prick, but the military monkey that ran the calibration may have not done things correctly. On top of that, the machine they use to calibrate with was also calibrated from another monkey… err, who knows what’s going on in the loop. :side:
I was a PME Calibration Technician in the Marine Corps, and personally had to pull someone aside because he was adjusting things way out of standard readings; I wasn’t even the TI Inspector (who so happened to stamp approve his work). At the end of the day, I helped changed procedures in hopes of keeping this from happening again; we also sent a report to Marine Headquarters but unfortunately never heard back from theme.
Maybe I’m over-analyzing, considering cars pull over when they break down and military aircraft… fall out of the sky when they break down. In most cases, most of the Marine techs I worked with worked with full integrity and with correct knowledge.
[quote=”eliud712″ post=64292]At least with Chrysler, the scan tool is only used to see the temp of the transmission oil while you use a special dipstick that is used to see the level of the fluid in the transmission. With the difference of the temp and level you can tell what level the fluid should be at.[/quote]
Yeah, but is the temp sensor calibrated :silly:
Still scares me, my neighbor’s 2012/13 Hyundai Accent’s crankcase was overfilled – the Hyundai dealership somehow managed to put 5 quarts of oil in that small engine.New owner of a 2013 Chrysler 200… my transmission doesn’t come with a dipstick :side:
[quote=”eliud712″ post=64292]At least with Chrysler, the scan tool is only used to see the temp of the transmission oil while you use a special dipstick that is used to see the level of the fluid in the transmission. With the difference of the temp and level you can tell what level the fluid should be at.[/quote]
Yeah, but is the temp sensor calibrated :silly:
Still scares me, my neighbor’s 2012/13 Hyundai Accent’s crankcase was overfilled – the Hyundai dealership somehow managed to put 5 quarts of oil in that small engine.New owner of a 2013 Chrysler 200… my transmission doesn’t come with a dipstick :side:
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