Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Anything electrical could be fried… unfortunately, up to and including the entire computer system may need replaced. Check the relays first though. I also wonder if the battery itself might be damaged, and continually blowing the fuse.
Anything electrical could be fried… unfortunately, up to and including the entire computer system may need replaced. Check the relays first though. I also wonder if the battery itself might be damaged, and continually blowing the fuse.
If its running rough and backfiring when you force it to run by giving it gas, it could be out of time. If it was a security issue I doubt it would run under any conditions.
If its running rough and backfiring when you force it to run by giving it gas, it could be out of time. If it was a security issue I doubt it would run under any conditions.
In addition to all the mechanical checks listed above, it’s worth noting that almost all the Dodge trucks of that era will have Magnum engines, and even with low miles they can easily have a blown intake manifold gasket. The parts to fix this are about $130 + 5-7 hrs of work, so it’s worth finding one without the issue IMO. I can’t think of any reason someone would sell their Ram unless it had this issue and they couldn’t fix it 😉
So if you can, take off the airbox and check for oil inside the throttle body and intake plenum. Also floor it while going up a hill and check for any misfiring, pinging, or sounds like a only a turbo should be making. In particular mine has a vacuum leak that makes it sound supercharged under load at high RPMs.
In addition to all the mechanical checks listed above, it’s worth noting that almost all the Dodge trucks of that era will have Magnum engines, and even with low miles they can easily have a blown intake manifold gasket. The parts to fix this are about $130 + 5-7 hrs of work, so it’s worth finding one without the issue IMO. I can’t think of any reason someone would sell their Ram unless it had this issue and they couldn’t fix it 😉
So if you can, take off the airbox and check for oil inside the throttle body and intake plenum. Also floor it while going up a hill and check for any misfiring, pinging, or sounds like a only a turbo should be making. In particular mine has a vacuum leak that makes it sound supercharged under load at high RPMs.
Well not exactly. It’s been like this for a long time, as with the engine’s strange sound. I didn’t think we’d be keeping it for much longer so I never posted about it or tried to fix it. However it’s increasingly likely that this car might have to last a few more years, so I’m curious. This car is routinely driven less than 10 miles a day, but about a year ago it was driven 100 miles a day for almost 3 months and soon after, these problems all began to occur. I don’t know which happened first, as I never drove it back then.
Well not exactly. It’s been like this for a long time, as with the engine’s strange sound. I didn’t think we’d be keeping it for much longer so I never posted about it or tried to fix it. However it’s increasingly likely that this car might have to last a few more years, so I’m curious. This car is routinely driven less than 10 miles a day, but about a year ago it was driven 100 miles a day for almost 3 months and soon after, these problems all began to occur. I don’t know which happened first, as I never drove it back then.
That was my thought. Which is why I wondered if the engine is just so old and weak that it can’t handle the strain, due to a valvetrain problem or something else that could cause the tapping.
That was my thought. Which is why I wondered if the engine is just so old and weak that it can’t handle the strain, due to a valvetrain problem or something else that could cause the tapping.
I live in Pennsylvania and the car has been here it’s entire life… so yes, it’s got some rust on it. Thanks for the suggestion, I’ll try to run the alternator test soon but I don’t even know if there’s a voltmeter around here anywhere. Neither I or any family members ever do electrical work lol.
I live in Pennsylvania and the car has been here it’s entire life… so yes, it’s got some rust on it. Thanks for the suggestion, I’ll try to run the alternator test soon but I don’t even know if there’s a voltmeter around here anywhere. Neither I or any family members ever do electrical work lol.
Did the shaking start before the brakes were changed, and you changed them to try and fix it, or did it start after they were changed?
Were all the brakes changed?