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I’m talking about the bolts that hold the distributor cap on to the base. My theory was that since the cap isn’t held down securely, it isn’t sealed, and water is getting in. I often park it facing up a hill, where water could easily run down the hood and directly into the distributor which is, in my opinion, foolishly placed at the back of the engine. We just had a bad storm, I’ll see how it runs tomorrow. I will spray the cap directly, but as of now the cap and all of the wires are new. Hopefully you’re right and the old wires would’ve been the cause.
Turns out the threads were fine all along. What happened is the same as what is happening on cylinders #4 and #7. The heat shield has tapered down to where a socket won’t go the whole way in. What I felt was the plug tightening and then the socket slipping off. I was eventually able to fully tighten it using a regular 5/8 deep well socket. The plug socket was just too thick and too short. On 4 and 7 I can’t even engage the old plug to loosen it. I’ve had no luck pulling those heat shields out, either. I soaked one in PB blaster and then pulled on it with vise grips. All I did was hurt myself, really. It’s back together and running now, but it still has two old Autolites in it. I’m going to see if someone has a thin-walled socket I can try.
And then I ran into another problem which was already there. My distributor is damaged. There is only one bolt hole, the other has somehow been sheared off. No wonder the truck barely runs after a particularly heavy rain storm.
Turns out the threads were fine all along. What happened is the same as what is happening on cylinders #4 and #7. The heat shield has tapered down to where a socket won’t go the whole way in. What I felt was the plug tightening and then the socket slipping off. I was eventually able to fully tighten it using a regular 5/8 deep well socket. The plug socket was just too thick and too short. On 4 and 7 I can’t even engage the old plug to loosen it. I’ve had no luck pulling those heat shields out, either. I soaked one in PB blaster and then pulled on it with vise grips. All I did was hurt myself, really. It’s back together and running now, but it still has two old Autolites in it. I’m going to see if someone has a thin-walled socket I can try.
And then I ran into another problem which was already there. My distributor is damaged. There is only one bolt hole, the other has somehow been sheared off. No wonder the truck barely runs after a particularly heavy rain storm.
I’ll try the thread chaser tomorrow. I didn’t think these tools, either the chaser, back tap, or timesert would work on cast iron though.
I also have another problem. The plug for cylinder #4 seems to be inaccessible. No matter what, the socket will not go far down enough to engage the spark plug. There is this cylindrical metal head shield around each plug which I think is tapering down to be too small for my socket. But it’s ONLY on that cylinder.
I’ll try the thread chaser tomorrow. I didn’t think these tools, either the chaser, back tap, or timesert would work on cast iron though.
I also have another problem. The plug for cylinder #4 seems to be inaccessible. No matter what, the socket will not go far down enough to engage the spark plug. There is this cylindrical metal head shield around each plug which I think is tapering down to be too small for my socket. But it’s ONLY on that cylinder.
I’m almost positive that the plenum is bad. I have some experience with that. It doesn’t ping under load like my other truck did but it does have audible spark knock at idle in park/neutral. It goes away when put in gear though. My last truck did this too even with new plugs, wires, cap and rotor. It drives nicely but if you maintain a speed with the rpm over 2000 with TCC locked it starts to shake again the way it does at idle. It also feels like it has no power at all above 65 mph or so. I can’t run 75-80 with everyone else on the interstate. I’m probably going to pull the throttle body today and see if I can see any oil in the keg.
I’m almost positive that the plenum is bad. I have some experience with that. It doesn’t ping under load like my other truck did but it does have audible spark knock at idle in park/neutral. It goes away when put in gear though. My last truck did this too even with new plugs, wires, cap and rotor. It drives nicely but if you maintain a speed with the rpm over 2000 with TCC locked it starts to shake again the way it does at idle. It also feels like it has no power at all above 65 mph or so. I can’t run 75-80 with everyone else on the interstate. I’m probably going to pull the throttle body today and see if I can see any oil in the keg.
I wouldn’t replace panels without having them painted to match first… but I do have a friend who combined three F150s from the nineties into one… It has the frame and engine of a ’93, and therefore is registered as such. The bed is off a ’97, and the cab is from a ’96 but has mostly the ’93 interior. There are miscellaneous parts from all three vehicles all over it. I believe the front seats and back seat may be from different years, even.
I wouldn’t replace panels without having them painted to match first… but I do have a friend who combined three F150s from the nineties into one… It has the frame and engine of a ’93, and therefore is registered as such. The bed is off a ’97, and the cab is from a ’96 but has mostly the ’93 interior. There are miscellaneous parts from all three vehicles all over it. I believe the front seats and back seat may be from different years, even.
The video with ScannerDanner immediately jumped to my mind and since they are both Chrysler vehicles of similar generation, I think it is a reasonable conclusion to make that the system just doesn’t respond quickly. I know that early Chrysler OBD-II is very crude and not the most observant. For example I have audible spark knock at idle in this truck, but no misfire codes? Like, how does it miss that? Thanks for the help guys.
The video with ScannerDanner immediately jumped to my mind and since they are both Chrysler vehicles of similar generation, I think it is a reasonable conclusion to make that the system just doesn’t respond quickly. I know that early Chrysler OBD-II is very crude and not the most observant. For example I have audible spark knock at idle in this truck, but no misfire codes? Like, how does it miss that? Thanks for the help guys.