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It occurred to me that immediately before dropping my car off at the body shop, I had filled the gas tank. I filled the tank again yesterday and this morning, a few dozen miles into the new gasoline, the car sounded normal again. It also has ceased to run rough. I believe that I got some low octane or bad fuel. Is it possible that the PCM pulled enough timing away that it actually ran more quietly?
It occurred to me that immediately before dropping my car off at the body shop, I had filled the gas tank. I filled the tank again yesterday and this morning, a few dozen miles into the new gasoline, the car sounded normal again. It also has ceased to run rough. I believe that I got some low octane or bad fuel. Is it possible that the PCM pulled enough timing away that it actually ran more quietly?
I tapped on the mufflers and they are fine. Just a hollow thud when I hit them. Here is the video of how the car sounded before: https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=741441325877693&set=vb.100000354961213&type=3
I believe he has this shared publicly so you should be able to view it. If not, I’ll rip it down and put it on youtube. I tried making one of how the car sounds now but my phone’s microphone barely picked anything up. If you know what a bone stock 3800 sounds like though, you’ve basically got it. It really sounds like the stock mufflers were put back on, and some people I know thought that’s what I had done.
This weekend I intend to get the car on some jack stands and give the catalytic converter a couple taps as well.
EDIT: Car just started to idle a little rough. Not sure if/how this is related. It also runs a little rough at lower RPMs when cruising. I would like to try the exhaust restriction test with the vacuum gauge, but is there anything special that I need to do because the engine is boosted?
I tapped on the mufflers and they are fine. Just a hollow thud when I hit them. Here is the video of how the car sounded before: https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=741441325877693&set=vb.100000354961213&type=3
I believe he has this shared publicly so you should be able to view it. If not, I’ll rip it down and put it on youtube. I tried making one of how the car sounds now but my phone’s microphone barely picked anything up. If you know what a bone stock 3800 sounds like though, you’ve basically got it. It really sounds like the stock mufflers were put back on, and some people I know thought that’s what I had done.
This weekend I intend to get the car on some jack stands and give the catalytic converter a couple taps as well.
EDIT: Car just started to idle a little rough. Not sure if/how this is related. It also runs a little rough at lower RPMs when cruising. I would like to try the exhaust restriction test with the vacuum gauge, but is there anything special that I need to do because the engine is boosted?
As a matter of fact, no, quieter isn’t better. Not for this car and not for me. I first thought I had just gotten used to it which is why I asked others who hear the car every day and they agree with me. The body shop only did PDR on the hood, trunk, and roof. They didn’t touch the exhaust especially since there was nothing to correct. Later when I’m not at work I’ll see if I can pull up the video I made of how this car sounded before (also in the video is a stock 350Z to compare) and make one of the difference now.
As a matter of fact, no, quieter isn’t better. Not for this car and not for me. I first thought I had just gotten used to it which is why I asked others who hear the car every day and they agree with me. The body shop only did PDR on the hood, trunk, and roof. They didn’t touch the exhaust especially since there was nothing to correct. Later when I’m not at work I’ll see if I can pull up the video I made of how this car sounded before (also in the video is a stock 350Z to compare) and make one of the difference now.
Well I can go cutting the exhaust apart, but I can’t drive across town to the muffler shop to have it welded back together, then. The text in your signature applies here, lol
Well I can go cutting the exhaust apart, but I can’t drive across town to the muffler shop to have it welded back together, then. The text in your signature applies here, lol
I never thought of trying one of those. I may even have one here already. I’ll report back when I have a chance to try that.
I never thought of trying one of those. I may even have one here already. I’ll report back when I have a chance to try that.
I’ll check out the fuel trims when I have a chance, but before I dive too deeply into other problems I need to get those last two old spark plugs out. I’m going to attempt to pull the shields out with the engine hot. Failing that I will go buy the thin walled socket that I need. I’m just afraid that even that won’t be good enough. I should note that when warm the truck no longer acts like it wants to stall, but it does shake at idle and sometimes while moving, but not always. I still expect the exhaust leak is to blame for that but I can’t jump to conclusions when I have six brand new NGKs trying to work with two worn out Autolites.
I’ll check out the fuel trims when I have a chance, but before I dive too deeply into other problems I need to get those last two old spark plugs out. I’m going to attempt to pull the shields out with the engine hot. Failing that I will go buy the thin walled socket that I need. I’m just afraid that even that won’t be good enough. I should note that when warm the truck no longer acts like it wants to stall, but it does shake at idle and sometimes while moving, but not always. I still expect the exhaust leak is to blame for that but I can’t jump to conclusions when I have six brand new NGKs trying to work with two worn out Autolites.
Unfortunately it’s not a broken fastener. It’s impossible to photograph but the actual piece of the distributor body with the bolt hole in it is broken off. The cap seems to be sealing well enough, though. I discovered what I believe to be the real reason for my rough idle/acting like it wants to stall when cold. I have a SEVERE exhaust leak. You can’t hear it unless you are next to a reflecting surface, but if you stand next to the truck while it’s idling you can even feel the hot air blowing on your legs. The front O2 sensor is in a logical place for this leak and I think that’s related. I realized that it doesn’t just act up after it’s rained, it runs poorly any time it’s left sit for more than 12 hours.
Unfortunately it’s not a broken fastener. It’s impossible to photograph but the actual piece of the distributor body with the bolt hole in it is broken off. The cap seems to be sealing well enough, though. I discovered what I believe to be the real reason for my rough idle/acting like it wants to stall when cold. I have a SEVERE exhaust leak. You can’t hear it unless you are next to a reflecting surface, but if you stand next to the truck while it’s idling you can even feel the hot air blowing on your legs. The front O2 sensor is in a logical place for this leak and I think that’s related. I realized that it doesn’t just act up after it’s rained, it runs poorly any time it’s left sit for more than 12 hours.
I’m talking about the bolts that hold the distributor cap on to the base. My theory was that since the cap isn’t held down securely, it isn’t sealed, and water is getting in. I often park it facing up a hill, where water could easily run down the hood and directly into the distributor which is, in my opinion, foolishly placed at the back of the engine. We just had a bad storm, I’ll see how it runs tomorrow. I will spray the cap directly, but as of now the cap and all of the wires are new. Hopefully you’re right and the old wires would’ve been the cause.