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I pulled off the negative terminal and there was a thin film of corrosion around the battery post, which was invisible while it was attached. Cleaning this off immediately rectified the problem. The positive terminal was fine. I’ll keep an eye on it, but I’m just glad it wasn’t something more serious. Thanks for the reply.
That’s what I believed, but I wasn’t sure. I thought that it would leave a pending misfire code in the computer.
I’m still confused, though. If the exhaust leak is making it run poorly, why do the fuel trims and O2 readings look normal?
I’m considering seafoaming it to make the leak much more apparent. At this time I’ve yet to find it but it sounds like it’s between the manifold and the head. Donut gaskets would be far preferable, though.
That’s what I believed, but I wasn’t sure. I thought that it would leave a pending misfire code in the computer.
I’m still confused, though. If the exhaust leak is making it run poorly, why do the fuel trims and O2 readings look normal?
I’m considering seafoaming it to make the leak much more apparent. At this time I’ve yet to find it but it sounds like it’s between the manifold and the head. Donut gaskets would be far preferable, though.
Update: I got a flashing CEL today while accelerating from a stop, up a steep grade, at about 3/4 throttle. When I hit 3500 RPM the light flashed four times. No codes.
Update: I got a flashing CEL today while accelerating from a stop, up a steep grade, at about 3/4 throttle. When I hit 3500 RPM the light flashed four times. No codes.
I’ve had good experience with a 46RE from Jasper.
As for resale value, even with 100k+ miles on them, these 2G Rams tend to go for way too much money. I have an ’01 offroad edition as well, and I paid $8k for it with 106k miles, mild fender rust, and wasn’t running right. I had to pass up several trucks that were more or less in perfect shape because they wanted three, four, or even five thousand dollars more. I do not hesitate to put money into my Ram, but I also don’t daily drive it and intend to keep it for a decade or more. YMMV.
I’ve had good experience with a 46RE from Jasper.
As for resale value, even with 100k+ miles on them, these 2G Rams tend to go for way too much money. I have an ’01 offroad edition as well, and I paid $8k for it with 106k miles, mild fender rust, and wasn’t running right. I had to pass up several trucks that were more or less in perfect shape because they wanted three, four, or even five thousand dollars more. I do not hesitate to put money into my Ram, but I also don’t daily drive it and intend to keep it for a decade or more. YMMV.
In my experience, so long as you don’t overwork them or allow them to overheat, they can last as long as any other. That said, all automatic transmissions have a limited lifespan, it’s the nature of the beast. Routine fluid changes and a trans temp gauge go a long way.
In my experience, so long as you don’t overwork them or allow them to overheat, they can last as long as any other. That said, all automatic transmissions have a limited lifespan, it’s the nature of the beast. Routine fluid changes and a trans temp gauge go a long way.
Fuel line is fixed. No more potential rolling firebomb! 🙂
However, the problem remains. I noticed tonight that even when idling in open loop, dead cold, that the problem persists and is arguably worse than when the engine is warm. If an exhaust leak confusing the upstream O2 is to blame, wouldn’t it idle smoothly in open loop mode?
Fuel line is fixed. No more potential rolling firebomb! 🙂
However, the problem remains. I noticed tonight that even when idling in open loop, dead cold, that the problem persists and is arguably worse than when the engine is warm. If an exhaust leak confusing the upstream O2 is to blame, wouldn’t it idle smoothly in open loop mode?
I got an extremely strong fuel smell inside the cab this morning. The plastic fuel line connecting the two fuel rails had cracked and was leaking fuel all over the intake and the driver’s side valve cover. That could’ve been REALLY BAD. That is getting replaced tomorrow with a proper rubber line, and the vehicle isn’t getting driven until then.
The audible exhaust leak has become louder. It’s much easier to hear, and locate. It is most certainly somewhere on the passenger side manifold. Is this leak most likely to blame for the rough running?
I got an extremely strong fuel smell inside the cab this morning. The plastic fuel line connecting the two fuel rails had cracked and was leaking fuel all over the intake and the driver’s side valve cover. That could’ve been REALLY BAD. That is getting replaced tomorrow with a proper rubber line, and the vehicle isn’t getting driven until then.
The audible exhaust leak has become louder. It’s much easier to hear, and locate. It is most certainly somewhere on the passenger side manifold. Is this leak most likely to blame for the rough running?
The CEL lit up as I cranked the engine, and after it fired up the ABS light came on momentarily. I believe both of those are bulb checks?
The knock noise goes away, yes, but the rough idle does NOT. If anything, it is more pronounced when in gear. We’re getting a bit of a heat wave tomorrow, so it won’t be cold enough for visible exhaust condensation for a few days. Could shifting of the engine make an exhaust leak come and go if it was leaking at a gasket between the manifolds and the downpipes? You can’t hear the leak at idle, either.
The CEL lit up as I cranked the engine, and after it fired up the ABS light came on momentarily. I believe both of those are bulb checks?
The knock noise goes away, yes, but the rough idle does NOT. If anything, it is more pronounced when in gear. We’re getting a bit of a heat wave tomorrow, so it won’t be cold enough for visible exhaust condensation for a few days. Could shifting of the engine make an exhaust leak come and go if it was leaking at a gasket between the manifolds and the downpipes? You can’t hear the leak at idle, either.