Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
I haven’t had to do that before so it’ll be a new learning experience. Thanks for the help it’s greatly appreciated.
I haven’t had to do that before so it’ll be a new learning experience. Thanks for the help it’s greatly appreciated.
I’ve checked the master cylinder fluid level and it is ok. I’ve checked the drive shafts and they also seem to be ok. One more thing I tried was to put the car into gear with the engine running. With the clutch pedal pushed in I could select any gear. With the pedal out I could occasionally select 2nd and reverse I would get the gear grinding sound. Is the only way to check the clutch by removing the transmission?
I’ve checked the master cylinder fluid level and it is ok. I’ve checked the drive shafts and they also seem to be ok. One more thing I tried was to put the car into gear with the engine running. With the clutch pedal pushed in I could select any gear. With the pedal out I could occasionally select 2nd and reverse I would get the gear grinding sound. Is the only way to check the clutch by removing the transmission?
Ok I’ve jacked the front of the car up and moved the wheel while looking under the car and it seems to be the axle that is moving where it goes through the knuckle. Am I correct that this would be a bad wheel bearing?
Thanks for everyone’s help so far. This is a great forum for guys like me that are interested in fixing their own cars.
I was able to pickup a connector and the intake temperature sensor from the junk yard and then followed Eric’s video for soldering the wires together along with the heat shrink sleeves. Thanks everyone for your suggestions. Now I can attack the connector to figure out how it’s supposed to come apart.
I think I’m going to get another connector and solder the wires. Then I can play around with getting the connectors out. I figure it shouldn’t be this hard to get them out of the housing. I’ll try to post some pictures of the connector. Thanks for the suggestions
Ok thanks I’m thinking something in the 10 or 12 ton range then should be adequate and I’ll probably go with a bench top style so it doesn’t use up use up a lot of space in my garage. Does anyone know if I’d likely need something wider than about 13″ between posts for bearings and bushings etc?
Would a good 12 ton press have the capacity to do most automotive applications? If it is I’d rather spend my money on a good quality 12 ton unit than the same money on a 20 ton unit if a 12 ton press would do what I need.
Now that it’s been pointed out a growl s probably a more accurate description. I didn’t notice any difference in the noise turning left or right, nor did I notice any play in the wheel when I had it jacked up. The brakes looked good with no sign of anything broken. I still have to look at the video which I’ll try to do tonight. thanks for the suggestions.
Thanks for the advice everyone. It gives me something to try today. I’ll keep you posted of what works. My biggest concern was how much force can I could put on a 24″ breaker bar without it “breaking”. It sounds like I don’t need to be too concerned about that.
Ok I used the extension to get the breaker bar past the fender and put a 4 ft pipe on the end of the 2 ft breaker bar and with some persistent effort it eventually broke free. I used a jack stand under the extension to support it as close to the breaker bar as possible. Thanks everyone for the suggestions I really appreciate it!