[linkwrayfan]

thanks for the info guys. think i’ll order some axles from raxles.com–heard they had good ones.

anyone have a suggestion for a decent & affordable front suspension kit? figure i might as well replace the ball joints etc. while i’ve got it torn down.

also, i can’t seem to find a good tutorial on changing the axle specifically on a cr-v. is this process similar to other honda models?

[linkwrayfan]

thanks for the info guys. think i’ll order some axles from raxles.com–heard they had good ones.

anyone have a suggestion for a decent & affordable front suspension kit? figure i might as well replace the ball joints etc. while i’ve got it torn down.

also, i can’t seem to find a good tutorial on changing the axle specifically on a cr-v. is this process similar to other honda models?

[linkwrayfan]

well i’ve got great news.. my crv is back on the road! here’s the better news, all it took was a genuine honda tune-up kit (cap, rotor, wires, plugs). my old stuff was autozone junk i put on about 3 years ago. the old cap and rotor had some pretty bad burnt spots–maybe that was the culprit?

i’m so glad i tried this easy fix before pulling the head. now my next project for the crv will be a new water pump, tensioner & timing belt.

btw, my eld is still removed from the fuse box and everything is running fine & no CEL. i plan on putting it back in but i’m surprised it doesn’t seem to affect anything negatively. we shall see.

[linkwrayfan]

Quoted From college man:

thanks for the update and fix

glad to provide a conclusion. so many times threads like these are left hanging and we’re all left wondering! that really bugs meS:)

[linkwrayfan]

Quoted From Trcustoms719:

Put a long screw driver or mechanics stethoscope on the #3 injector and listen to see if it sounds like the others.

i listened to each injector (w/ long screwdriver as makeshift stethoscope) and they all made the same rapid clicking sound (w/ engine running). this leads me to believe they probably all are working. is this correct?

i also checked the ELD since code p1298 indicates this might be the problem. was going to replace it but the dealer said they will only sell the whole fuse box for $260–no thanks. a guy sells them on ebay for $20 but the 2 sizes he offers don’t match the one from my vehicle exactly so i’m hesitant. anyway, i read online about disabling the ELD so i tried that (unplugged the connector) and i didn’t notice a difference either way. engine still ran poorly and p1298 code came back.

if the ELD and injectors don’t end up being the problem, what should i try next to indicate a problem with the head?

[linkwrayfan]

Quoted From Trcustoms719:
What did the plug look like?

here is a pic of the spark plugs–the one in question (cylinder 3) is 2nd from left. the ceramic is slightly darker and has a bit of oil on the threads, but not bad overall. what do you think? the plugs are in 4-3-2-1 order from left to right.

[linkwrayfan]

sorry–had to edit this reply because my browser accidentally double posted.

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