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I meant to respond to this days ago….
I bought some carb cleaner anyways, and sprayed all around the vacuum hoses (with the engine cold to minimize the risk of fires). Nothing.
I have ordered a new fuel pump relay (they often go bad on these cars, and mine did test partially bad) and fuel filter. They both should arrive Monday. If neither of these fixes it I will be looking at a new car. I’ve just dumped so much money into this car (started off as a $1000 car, now have probably more than that invested) that I don’t think it’s worth it. Besides, I’d rather have something with more power and a 5 speed. I’m looking at first-gen Foresters, but I probably won’t bite unless the head gasket has already been replaced (a common failure point on those cars).
If I go that route, I will miss the extreme ease of repairing. Every part is just so accessible on the Volvo; as Eric’s Subaru videos have shown, with a Boxer engine that just isn’t the case. I believe I read somewhere changing the head gaskets requires pulling the engine. Aye.
Another option is an early 90s Camry, the third (XV10) generation to be specific. Problem is they’re hard to find with a V6 and a 5 speed. I’m also looking at Ford Rangers but I find it hard to justify owning a truck hehe.
Thanks for the responses. I tested fuel pressure, should be 44 PSI but is 41 at idle. When I hooked it up it was at 0 with a cold engine but it stayed at 40 for awhile after shutting the car off. It looks like the fuel filter has never been replaced so I plan to order one.
I also considered a vacuum leak. Can I do the test outlined in the video with throttle body cleaner, or do I really need to get some carb cleaner?
Thanks for the responses. I tested fuel pressure, should be 44 PSI but is 41 at idle. When I hooked it up it was at 0 with a cold engine but it stayed at 40 for awhile after shutting the car off. It looks like the fuel filter has never been replaced so I plan to order one.
I also considered a vacuum leak. Can I do the test outlined in the video with throttle body cleaner, or do I really need to get some carb cleaner?
[quote=”STOCKa6″ post=68647]These long series of videos are very nice, it show a lot of detail of the process of doing a particular task. As with many others i do believe you should in between series insert a few single week projects much as done before.[/quote]
I agree with this. Long series videos are nice, but interspersed with some shorter videos (once a series is complete) would be even better. Plus, some things just don’t merit multiple videos– your antenna replacement for example. (Which was actually a help to me as I’d just purchased a car with a broken antenna a week prior, so thank you!)
I am curious how you choose the stopping points you do on series videos. Why 1/2 hour? I’m not complaining, I feel it’s a fair length of time, but how did you arrive at that when, say, a movie is 2 hours?
[quote=”STOCKa6″ post=68647]These long series of videos are very nice, it show a lot of detail of the process of doing a particular task. As with many others i do believe you should in between series insert a few single week projects much as done before.[/quote]
I agree with this. Long series videos are nice, but interspersed with some shorter videos (once a series is complete) would be even better. Plus, some things just don’t merit multiple videos– your antenna replacement for example. (Which was actually a help to me as I’d just purchased a car with a broken antenna a week prior, so thank you!)
I am curious how you choose the stopping points you do on series videos. Why 1/2 hour? I’m not complaining, I feel it’s a fair length of time, but how did you arrive at that when, say, a movie is 2 hours?
Really excited for this! I’ll def. be going with a friend, maybe his brother as well. Hopefully I’ll have my car in full working order before making the 500 mile trip… hm….
Really excited for this! I’ll def. be going with a friend, maybe his brother as well. Hopefully I’ll have my car in full working order before making the 500 mile trip… hm….
Good and bad news. I spent much of the day at the junkyard, where I pulled a master cylinder and AC compressor off a car with 65k on the clock, as well as two switches for the sunroof and a motor for the same, and seven light bulbs for behind the dash (since I can’t for the life of me get the bulbs out of their holders). The good news is I replaced the switch (not the motor) and now my sunroof opens great! It almost closes great too, the visor that is supposed to go down at the end fails to do so, so I have to hold it down with my hand. Not a huge deal.
The bad news is out of those seven light bulbs, exactly one was functional.
The worse news is I replaced the master cylinder, and the brakes feel exactly the same. I’m not sure if I picked up a bad unit, or I need to bleed at the wheels again, or the problem is another component, or…?
In other news I got the AC system evacuated today (there was very little in it) in anticipation of installing the new compressor. Oh, and the good news there is I found a note in the owner’s manual stating the car has been converted to R134a some time in 2005. So I should be able to just swap in the compressor and dump in some cheap freon and be good to go.
Good and bad news. I spent much of the day at the junkyard, where I pulled a master cylinder and AC compressor off a car with 65k on the clock, as well as two switches for the sunroof and a motor for the same, and seven light bulbs for behind the dash (since I can’t for the life of me get the bulbs out of their holders). The good news is I replaced the switch (not the motor) and now my sunroof opens great! It almost closes great too, the visor that is supposed to go down at the end fails to do so, so I have to hold it down with my hand. Not a huge deal.
The bad news is out of those seven light bulbs, exactly one was functional.
The worse news is I replaced the master cylinder, and the brakes feel exactly the same. I’m not sure if I picked up a bad unit, or I need to bleed at the wheels again, or the problem is another component, or…?
In other news I got the AC system evacuated today (there was very little in it) in anticipation of installing the new compressor. Oh, and the good news there is I found a note in the owner’s manual stating the car has been converted to R134a some time in 2005. So I should be able to just swap in the compressor and dump in some cheap freon and be good to go.
I just finished installing a junkyard-pulled master. I ended up not bench bleeding because a) the holes for the lines are on the bottom, so it would be hard to transfer to the car, and b) I don’t have a bench to work on. So I just installed the dry master and gravity bled all four wheels. Unfortunately, after I finished that I found the pedal went to the floor. Then I bled it at the master (using those built-in bleeders I mentioned) and now it’s like it used to be: spongy and brakes don’t grab until halfway down. Grrr. I’m thinking when I made the pedal go to the floor I may have pushed air back into the lines and I need to bleed at the wheels again, but more likely is the master was fine. What else could cause this? Brake booster, ABS…? Maybe I pulled another bad master? (Got it from a car with only 65k miles, so I’d hope it was okay.)
I just finished installing a junkyard-pulled master. I ended up not bench bleeding because a) the holes for the lines are on the bottom, so it would be hard to transfer to the car, and b) I don’t have a bench to work on. So I just installed the dry master and gravity bled all four wheels. Unfortunately, after I finished that I found the pedal went to the floor. Then I bled it at the master (using those built-in bleeders I mentioned) and now it’s like it used to be: spongy and brakes don’t grab until halfway down. Grrr. I’m thinking when I made the pedal go to the floor I may have pushed air back into the lines and I need to bleed at the wheels again, but more likely is the master was fine. What else could cause this? Brake booster, ABS…? Maybe I pulled another bad master? (Got it from a car with only 65k miles, so I’d hope it was okay.)
[quote=”college man” post=60302]What Eric does in the video at that point is cracks
the line at the master to purge any air right to that
point.The lines are still full of fluid up to that point.
Eric is just trying to ensure that the air is out so he does
not have to go to each wheel.But he does state that if the pedal
does feel spongy. go ahead and bleed the brakes at each wheel.[/quote]Can I use my bleed valves to do this? Or if not what is their function?
[quote=”college man” post=60302]What Eric does in the video at that point is cracks
the line at the master to purge any air right to that
point.The lines are still full of fluid up to that point.
Eric is just trying to ensure that the air is out so he does
not have to go to each wheel.But he does state that if the pedal
does feel spongy. go ahead and bleed the brakes at each wheel.[/quote]Can I use my bleed valves to do this? Or if not what is their function?
I noticed on my master cylinder, there are actually two bleed valves, presumably one for each line. Does this mean I don’t need to do the bleeding procedure outlined in Eric’s video? Or can I just crack each bleeder open while having someone pump the pedal instead of cracking open the line?