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I just reread that, and I’m sorry if I worded it harshly. I finally remembered to tune in for the first time ever and was just slightly disappointed. I understand, you did what you had to do. Cheers!
I just reread that, and I’m sorry if I worded it harshly. I finally remembered to tune in for the first time ever and was just slightly disappointed. I understand, you did what you had to do. Cheers!
You’re going to hate me for this, but… http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/cto/4180049606.html
It’s a (relatively compact) truck with a diesel engine.
Seriously though, the K5 diesel is a great choice, because it hits all the marks. American, diesel, “small,” old (classic?), and will have some issues.
EDIT: Bonus points if you can get one with a manual.
You’re going to hate me for this, but… http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/cto/4180049606.html
It’s a (relatively compact) truck with a diesel engine.
Seriously though, the K5 diesel is a great choice, because it hits all the marks. American, diesel, “small,” old (classic?), and will have some issues.
EDIT: Bonus points if you can get one with a manual.
[quote=”Raistian77″ post=75644]With the actuator unbolted, can you move it (the whole assembly) and hear the door opening and closing?[/quote]
It really didn’t seem like it. The actuator tried to spin before the door tried to open. When I unbolted the actuator and applied power, the actuator itself tried to spin, but when I held it in place, it didn’t really feel like it was doing anything. The door may be stuck.
[quote=”Raistian77″ post=75644]With the actuator unbolted, can you move it (the whole assembly) and hear the door opening and closing?[/quote]
It really didn’t seem like it. The actuator tried to spin before the door tried to open. When I unbolted the actuator and applied power, the actuator itself tried to spin, but when I held it in place, it didn’t really feel like it was doing anything. The door may be stuck.
That job was worse than I thought. There was some thick, immovable wiring harness blocking the uppermost fastener, which kept dripping this black goop on me whenever I touched it. I managed to get the bolts out, but I couldn’t for the life of me sneak the actuator around that harness. I did apply power, and I could tell it was moving, but with the bolts out it was hard to tell whether or not the door was stuck (the actuator itself tried to spin, and I had to hold it in place). Either way, I tried it and still only the passenger side gets heat. The weird thing to me is the air on the driver’s side starts off lukewarm, then eventually turns cold. Any possibility it’s a sensor issue?
That job was worse than I thought. There was some thick, immovable wiring harness blocking the uppermost fastener, which kept dripping this black goop on me whenever I touched it. I managed to get the bolts out, but I couldn’t for the life of me sneak the actuator around that harness. I did apply power, and I could tell it was moving, but with the bolts out it was hard to tell whether or not the door was stuck (the actuator itself tried to spin, and I had to hold it in place). Either way, I tried it and still only the passenger side gets heat. The weird thing to me is the air on the driver’s side starts off lukewarm, then eventually turns cold. Any possibility it’s a sensor issue?
[quote=”Raistian77″ post=75519]Okay looks like 2 fuses
1 is a “hot at all times” memory fuse, located in the dash fuse panel, it is a 10 amp fuse labeled
CSTR/SBMand the other is a “hot in run and start” fuse, also 10 amps and located in the same panel labeled HVAC
This is the driver’s side air mix actuator
Good news is you can get to yours without pulling the dash 🙂 What you can do is pull the actuator off and see if it is moving when you change the temperatures on the dash for the driver’s side[/quote]
Thanks! That diagram should be helpful. I’ll try this tomorrow when I can actually see what I’m doing :S
I looked it up and it seems I need to remove two bolts just to get to the fuse box :pinch: but at least I don’t have to disassemble the dash to get to the actuator.
[quote=”Raistian77″ post=75519]Okay looks like 2 fuses
1 is a “hot at all times” memory fuse, located in the dash fuse panel, it is a 10 amp fuse labeled
CSTR/SBMand the other is a “hot in run and start” fuse, also 10 amps and located in the same panel labeled HVAC
This is the driver’s side air mix actuator
Good news is you can get to yours without pulling the dash 🙂 What you can do is pull the actuator off and see if it is moving when you change the temperatures on the dash for the driver’s side[/quote]
Thanks! That diagram should be helpful. I’ll try this tomorrow when I can actually see what I’m doing :S
I looked it up and it seems I need to remove two bolts just to get to the fuse box :pinch: but at least I don’t have to disassemble the dash to get to the actuator.
Thanks for the suggestions guys!
[quote=”grg88″ post=75512]There is a blend door actuator down under the dash, and these often strip their little plastic gears.. You can sometimes diagnose this by unhooking the battery or pulling the fuse for 30 seconds. Then when you hook it up again, the doors will seek to realign themselves. A good one will just whirr for a couple of seconds. A bad one will whirr for much longer, or even click click click if the gears are stripped.[/quote]
I’d rather not pull the battery, so do you know which fuse I would need to pull? According to the owner’s manual it seems the one under the dash labeled “A/C” would be the one. Is this correct?
[quote=”Raistian77″ post=75514]Sounds like the blend door for the driver’s side is jammed or damaged leaving it in the cold mode.
Check for codes by pressing and holding the “OFF”,”AUTO” and “RECIRC” buttons for 1 second
You should get the trouble codes displayed for 2 seconds each[/quote]I tried this to no avail. It just rapidly flashed the display for as long as I held the buttons. Does that mean no codes?
Thanks for the suggestions guys!
[quote=”grg88″ post=75512]There is a blend door actuator down under the dash, and these often strip their little plastic gears.. You can sometimes diagnose this by unhooking the battery or pulling the fuse for 30 seconds. Then when you hook it up again, the doors will seek to realign themselves. A good one will just whirr for a couple of seconds. A bad one will whirr for much longer, or even click click click if the gears are stripped.[/quote]
I’d rather not pull the battery, so do you know which fuse I would need to pull? According to the owner’s manual it seems the one under the dash labeled “A/C” would be the one. Is this correct?
[quote=”Raistian77″ post=75514]Sounds like the blend door for the driver’s side is jammed or damaged leaving it in the cold mode.
Check for codes by pressing and holding the “OFF”,”AUTO” and “RECIRC” buttons for 1 second
You should get the trouble codes displayed for 2 seconds each[/quote]I tried this to no avail. It just rapidly flashed the display for as long as I held the buttons. Does that mean no codes?
I meant to respond to this days ago….
I bought some carb cleaner anyways, and sprayed all around the vacuum hoses (with the engine cold to minimize the risk of fires). Nothing.
I have ordered a new fuel pump relay (they often go bad on these cars, and mine did test partially bad) and fuel filter. They both should arrive Monday. If neither of these fixes it I will be looking at a new car. I’ve just dumped so much money into this car (started off as a $1000 car, now have probably more than that invested) that I don’t think it’s worth it. Besides, I’d rather have something with more power and a 5 speed. I’m looking at first-gen Foresters, but I probably won’t bite unless the head gasket has already been replaced (a common failure point on those cars).
If I go that route, I will miss the extreme ease of repairing. Every part is just so accessible on the Volvo; as Eric’s Subaru videos have shown, with a Boxer engine that just isn’t the case. I believe I read somewhere changing the head gaskets requires pulling the engine. Aye.
Another option is an early 90s Camry, the third (XV10) generation to be specific. Problem is they’re hard to find with a V6 and a 5 speed. I’m also looking at Ford Rangers but I find it hard to justify owning a truck hehe.