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I went on a long drive to Dublin on Sat,
with my scan tool connected monitoring the battery data pid
The fault appeared about 25 minutes into my journey,
when the fault appeared it also knocked out my scan tool,
I had to repower it up, proving it must be a voltage or ground problem as the scan tool is
power by pin 16 of the DLC
However the fault never came back, even on my journey home
This morning I check all my powers and grounds to the DLC but all is ok
I will have to wait till the fault reappears. (they always do)I went on a long drive to Dublin on Sat,
with my scan tool connected monitoring the battery data pid
The fault appeared about 25 minutes into my journey,
when the fault appeared it also knocked out my scan tool,
I had to repower it up, proving it must be a voltage or ground problem as the scan tool is
power by pin 16 of the DLC
However the fault never came back, even on my journey home
This morning I check all my powers and grounds to the DLC but all is ok
I will have to wait till the fault reappears. (they always do)go with the dealership
the training and technical advice you will get there will do you a lot of go in the futurego with the dealership
the training and technical advice you will get there will do you a lot of go in the futureI have never seen this make of auto, but here is some general trouble tips that apply to most makes
Did you check the switching voltage on the starter motor,
There a large should be a large thick cable, this would have 12V on it all the times,
There is a smaller cable, the 12V would appear here when only when you crank the engine
A quick test to test the starter is to connect the larger cable to the smaller cable for a brief period, this would simulate the switched 12V
Whilst doing this make sure the hand brake is on firmly and the car is out of gear
If the switched 12V is not there whilst cranking, possible causes are park/neutral switch,
relay, ign switch, wiring.
If the switched 12V is present whilst cranking I would have a look at my starter motorI have never seen this make of auto, but here is some general trouble tips that apply to most makes
Did you check the switching voltage on the starter motor,
There a large should be a large thick cable, this would have 12V on it all the times,
There is a smaller cable, the 12V would appear here when only when you crank the engine
A quick test to test the starter is to connect the larger cable to the smaller cable for a brief period, this would simulate the switched 12V
Whilst doing this make sure the hand brake is on firmly and the car is out of gear
If the switched 12V is not there whilst cranking, possible causes are park/neutral switch,
relay, ign switch, wiring.
If the switched 12V is present whilst cranking I would have a look at my starter motoryou say whilst driving, the rpm goes up but the speed of your car does not go up
being a manual gear box, the only thing I can think of is the clutch is slipping for some reason, I could be wrong, I don’t know the design of the gear box
I remember a few years ago I had a car doing this intermittently,
There was an oil leak from the rear crankshaft oil seal, the oil was getting on the clutch
drive plates and slipped
also I have come across sticking thrust bearing that wont slide on the shaft
The way I used to check for a slipping clutch was to drive it up a hill and put my foot down on the accelerator to put it under pressure and listen to the rpm of the engineyou say whilst driving, the rpm goes up but the speed of your car does not go up
being a manual gear box, the only thing I can think of is the clutch is slipping for some reason, I could be wrong, I don’t know the design of the gear box
I remember a few years ago I had a car doing this intermittently,
There was an oil leak from the rear crankshaft oil seal, the oil was getting on the clutch
drive plates and slipped
also I have come across sticking thrust bearing that wont slide on the shaft
The way I used to check for a slipping clutch was to drive it up a hill and put my foot down on the accelerator to put it under pressure and listen to the rpm of the engineStart by having a look at the o2 signal data pid with your scan tool
It should be switching between 0.2V to 0.8V
Is your idle rpm normal?Start by having a look at the o2 signal data pid with your scan tool
It should be switching between 0.2V to 0.8V
Is your idle rpm normal?I would not call your comment “dumb”
I have being thinking on these line for a few days,
It has to be something common to all these modules, ecu, abs, smart entry, and also the antitheft light also came on,
Battery, alternator, Supplies, Grounds, are all on the list of possible causes.
Battery is about 3 years old, near the end of its life,
I am going to setup my scan tool to monitor my battery voltage on my next long drive.
Maybe there will be enough voltage to keep the scan tool working when the fault appears.
Battery voltage is at 12.55V when cold, and whilst turning the engine over its 10.5V.
With engine running at idle, System voltage is around 14V, with all loads on.
Whilst driving with all loads switched on, system voltage did not drop below 13.92V
and did not go above 14.08V
Regards
LeonardI would not call your comment “dumb”
I have being thinking on these line for a few days,
It has to be something common to all these modules, ecu, abs, smart entry, and also the antitheft light also came on,
Battery, alternator, Supplies, Grounds, are all on the list of possible causes.
Battery is about 3 years old, near the end of its life,
I am going to setup my scan tool to monitor my battery voltage on my next long drive.
Maybe there will be enough voltage to keep the scan tool working when the fault appears.
Battery voltage is at 12.55V when cold, and whilst turning the engine over its 10.5V.
With engine running at idle, System voltage is around 14V, with all loads on.
Whilst driving with all loads switched on, system voltage did not drop below 13.92V
and did not go above 14.08V
Regards
Leonard