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thank you all for your feedback so far! Thank you Eric! I cracked the bleeder liquid did not shoot out, it leaked out like a gravity bleed. Wheel still did not turn either way totally locked up. I still find it hard to believe the newly sent caliper is defective, not ruling it out however. When the caliper is taken off the wheel, using a caliper compressing tool from auto zone, the caliper pistons slide in and out with ease with the bleeder both open and closed. once it goes back on the rotors the problem starts up immediately. I disconnected the ABS UNIT no help, i will begin looking into the pushrod. This problem is just boggling my mind. Could one simply follow the hardlines loosening the connectors unit by unit, until pressure is relieved?
ok guys thanks for all your help thus far! Cam0888 is hitting more towards my thought process and where my snooping has led me…. jacked the car up today, hasnt been (test driven) for over a day, both wheels spun freely…. went into the car and pumped the brakes twice to apply pressure… aftwerwards driver side spun freely …passenger problem side, completely locked up, cant turn it whatsoever…brand new caliper all that etc…. i then followed the harld line to what i believe is the ABS hydraulic unit, not a far distance in a mustang, up inside the front bumber on the passenger side. Line felt and looked fine. my new thoughts…noob…. if issue could be anything related to that unit or anything or braking unit for that matter prop valve mastr cylinder, would the car have to be turned on and under electrical current for those devices to impact my issue? or since im just using the brake pedal force with the car off would that narrow down my problem? also checked a 12-6 tire shake for possible wheelbearing and hub assembly issue, and no play or movement occured meaning a wheel bearing issue could also be ruled out correct? extra tidbits of info i mention i was having this issue last year on old parts, i drove on it 2-3 weeks (unsafe, i know) before putting my car away… #1 problem side metal on metal pad, ground rotor. the outside pad (old parts) furthest to the vehicle friction surface facing in is the most worn ( theres nothing there.) its also the rotor grinding pad, rotor wear and metal on pad wear patterns match….. #2 when braking last year before putting away, if a hard brake 50mph>0 35mph>0 occured (not panic brake) my EBRAKE light on my dash would flash, not every time just coming down slightly quick from higher speeds ive read this signal is sent from the proportioning valve…. also i could be a long shot here i have no clue how the thing works, “theres something inside that is centered, and under a brake issue, brake failure issue, idiot not changing his brakes for too long, something gets switched and affects the problem side and needs to be reset… i didnt look into what i read on that very much
Everything looks visually normal with components, everything went well during the bleeding process. I’m starting to poke around online about ABS function, but im not sure what could go wrong, let alone how i could have screwed anything up. buddy is telling me if master cylinder is bad it should affect both front wheels not just one.