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Thanks, excellent ideas. The Thermostat was changed two summers ago, along with the radiator, water pump and hoses. So I am concerned and perplexed. Thanks again
Good points, thanks. I’ll have to take the whole dash out, but I have to take the console out to reattach the headlight switch to the dash (That’s a long story that I stumbled onto at a inopportune time), so I’m mulling over replacing the heater core
Thanks, man- I appreciate it. The outflow is cold, so it looks like another flush is in order. The mechanic supposedly did one two years ago, and the heat still didn’t work so I decided to switch out the cooling system. If he in fact had flushed it out, being plugged again after two years is jive
Actually the coolant is fine. I don’t think I have lost a drop since the job. One hose is cold, and the other is hot. The heater core was flushed before the big cooling system switch out. So I am thinking the heater core may need to come out?
Also Eric I buy OE for the Mustang and Jag or any other cars like those we have sitting around. I would like to restore the Ranger someday but Ive been spending time getting it running better and the maintence up to snuff before I start OE’ing it. I have to do a left side Cylinder Head replacement next Spring. Its a great work truck and I know I can hot rod it a little and get it sounding good and get a little punch in its step in a few years. I recommend these trucks for ease of working on them and they are great work horses
Thanks man, I was thinking you had a video on that and I spent last evening looking for it. I found lots of other cool stuff though. Appreciate it. And yes I will, I always do my best to follow up
Yeah I still have the other radiator and they match up. I also have the old Radiator Hose and I matched them up before I started putting it in and they matched. I rememver the old one was a bear, but its been a few months since I took it off and I don’t remember if it was just shoved in there or not. I do know it was a bear to get off as it is going back in. With the new radiator hose attached to the block, there is like 2 inches extra going past the bottom of the Radiator. It is the only one NAPA carries for the truck model and as you said it is one of those one fits all, so I’ll slice on it, but I could of swore this one matched up with the old one. That’s why I hate when I get started on a project and get side tracked and get back to it later, stuff like this happens. I just drive the truck around town and hauling and taking the in-laws trash and helping them out so it’s not like it’s custom work like on my Mustang. Thanks for the tips. it is much appreciated
Thanks for the help. Yeah I had been told a while back Purolator does the Oil Filters and Air Filters for Ford. That’s a good idea about re-torqueing the valve cover bolts, appreciate it
I was finally able to get back to the truck this morning, and I was able to get the three bolts out using the recommended procedure. It was so simple, I should of thought of it, I know I would of 20 years ago, but for some reason a trick like that so simple and effective. I really appreciate being led in that direction, college man. Thanks again
Your right, and normally I would have, but the truck was acting strange and those were symptoms I didn’t think was the battery. Next time though, I’m starting right there. I like your site and have watched your videos for awhile, they are a big help.
I want to thank you guys for the help. The mystery is solved. It was a bad battery all along. I changed it out once with one I thought was brand new. I had bought it for a previous truck I had, but it developed a cracked head. So when I sold the truck I assumed I had took the new battery in storage and had put a old one in it’s place (the guy who bought the truck knew of the cracked head and it didn’t run). Well, I decided to take this one I thought was new out an put on the charger. It charged up, but my multi-meter was showing current not being held. I put it back in the truck and cranked it, and I heard fuel moving, so I knew the battery was bad. I took it down the road to NAPA and they tested it, and it was bad. I traded that in for a new one, bolted it on and the truck fired right up! I’ve started and shut it off a few times, I took it around the block a few times and it’s running strong. I appreciate ya’ll’s time helping me out with this.
[quote=”ukrkoz” post=142552]Removing ECM fuse for some time resets ECM by powering it down.
If you want to do hard reboot, remove both battery cables and then touch cable terminals together. This is said to remove all leftover power in the system. Other way is to remove cables and hold horn button down for some time. Same purpose – drain entire everything.
I doubt though you’ll get out easy. from this issue. Find a decent mobile electrician off craigslist.[/quote]Thanks for the additional tips. I’ll probably try them all, very interesting ideas