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When we got it started last night we got a loud explosion out of intake air , then is started and ran got misce codes misfire code while driving on freeway 50 miles or so all perameters were as above.
This morning went to start it and if fired on 3rd crank like it is supposed to , driving now.
I am very happy it is running but?? What changed? Is it possible all the fuel in the exhaust was causing bad o2 sensor readings? Was Cat full of Gasoline? The only new part was a starter from Napa that they warranteed.
Are these computers that finicky?
Help Advice needed.fuel trim is -12.5 and according to the Acura manual I should be around .73 to 1.47 positive that is a difference of 17.12 times lower that is should be ? What can cause this ? leaking injector? O2 sensor?
HelpLTerm is negative as well but much closer to books specs.
DTC P1129 Map Sensor signal Higher than expected
1. start engine hole at 3000 rpm with no load until fan comes on, then let idle
2. check the MAP sensor with scan tool.Is 43.3 kPa or less indicated?
Yes intermittent failure, system ok at this time.
No replace Map sensorthis is from Acura service repair manual
Agree, Cold air more fuel and oxygenated winter mixes
what about new route? is it hilly vs previous that kills my mpg inclines. I know Arizona and though it feels flat you drive for an hour and suddenly your at the top of a rim at 6k feet.I am very sensible person and do not understand what could mechanically fail while sitting in a driveway. How can a temp or position sensor just stop working while parked? Can extreme cold affect these items?
This is a nice car and for it to be broken now for 30 plus days with no progress is driving me crazy!
I keep throwing things at it wishing and hoping for a miracle.
1/the Fuel was purchased locally at shell like always full tank
2/tank level is now 5/8 with only 75 miles driven when we could start it
3/was parked at a decline of 20 degrees fuel must have gone from tank to engine via recirc lines? (This is the night engine quit starting)
[/color]4/ We put new: Fuel pump, Fuel regulator, fuel relay, Temp sensor, Air intake sensor, spark plugs
5/have checked: Timing all correct that’s why it runs when using Starting fluid, spark at every cylinder, once started fuel system is perfect. no codes or anything.
6/ now the starter just quit because I have turned it over like it is a 1,000,000 mile car (surprised it lasted this long)
7/ Have verified computer and alarm seem to fuction (Proof Is once started with strart fluid it runs and operates until engine cools)Did all you suggested and temp readings did change -40 unplugged and 40 plugged in 80 degree swing now what?
Could the crank position sensor cause all this? Would it not run cold but run great warm???
So did check on ECT sensor and yes plugged in 40 degrees and unplugged -40 degrees. I also unplugged and cleaned connections. Did find connector with a few bad wires so repaired and same results.
What about the crank position sensor? if this is bad will it run once warmed up and started or could it cause intermitten issues like a no start?
Tb throttle body
IAC Intake air Cleaneryes both cleaned and looks new
I am sorry but what is the tb and IAC? Also plugs brand new
What does a fuel injection system do differently at different temps? Why will it run perfectly once it starts and I can shut off and start at will and it fires on the second or first crank. But let it cool for an hour and starts but takes 10 to 20 seconds. If it cools past that point wont start without Starting fluid.
Can the computer alter the air intake and fuel when temps are different say cold vs hot?
It does start with starter fluid that is the only way we can get it fired up.
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