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I would have a fleet of all my favorites if money were no issue.
69 Corvette Stingray, Camaro and the Roush Mustang to name a few.[quote=”iron” post=172289]In my first year I was doing everything but the heavier stuff. No head gaskets, engine overhauls, transmissions, and so on. Pay sucked. Bought most of my tools from Sears of course. Had to weigh income vs. survival. So cheaper tools was a must. We had a rule in the shop, if you have to borrow it more than twice, need to buy one of your own. Which worked well. Told me what tools were most important to have.
That being said, I started out in at a Ford dealer in Southgate, Michigan. I worked under another guy who basically did the light side or wrenching. He of course passed all the crappy work off on me. Instruction means a lot at this level. This guy would barely tell me what to do if he did at all. Eventually I was handed off to a ace who was always contacting Rotunda to tell them about new repairs to nightmare issues. Which I took part in writing a few myself.
First thing he taught me as I was wrestling hard with one of the first keyless entry systems, (keypad on the drivers door) he seen me getting frustrated. No one knew how to fix the issue, I was the first to dive into it as far as I know. So he told me to go stand at the wall. He stood there with me. We sat there in silence, I cooled down, and somehow the fix came right to me. I asked him of his thoughts, and he said it sounded good, give it a try. Told me next time, step back instead of getting worked up. Never got worked up again after that. I tried the repair, and bingo, fixed. Sent the repair to Rotunda.
I think for the most part I really wanted to learn, and I was highly ambitious. Other guys in my shoes did nothing but oil changes and prepping new cars. No real initiative for them. The service manager seen I wanted it and wanted more. I asked him what I can do to get to learn new things. He teased me a bit, and suddenly the doors were opening up. I started doing clutches and a bunch more heavier and harder things.
Get your certs and really work on getting them. Show that you really want it. Show you are willing to do what it takes to get to the top. Do not get attitudes, they just make you look bad and like you cannot handle what is in front of you. Top paying wrenches paid their dues like you. We all have or are. Be patient. Figure out what pays the best, and look for those types of jobs. I loved doing brakes. Easiest money ever. Recalls, bring them on.
You will have great, and bad days. Its all part of the game. Just keep focused on your dream.[/quote]So true!
Speaking of compressors on a budget:
When I was an unemployed DIYer (2014), I bought my 26 gal Husky air compressor gently used for a little over $100.00. I still use it today.I’d go with the double flex head set by Mountain. I have a similar set offered by Matco and they are lifesavers. The flex head lets you reach fasteners that are arranged in odd orientations. Having the double ends, you get more bang for your buck, imo.
No window control-at the master switch? How about at the individual window controls?
Is there a module that controls your radio, do you know?[quote=”Labrat0116″ post=172202]Thanks for all the good tips. I’ll check it out soon.
Also, “if” the Master cylinder was the culprit, would the rear brakes be hanging as well the front brakes ?[/quote]
Brakes can also hang up if the pads cannot move freely (due to lack of lubrication-Copper Anti Seize) in the brackets.
Let’s try to keep it simple by leaving the master cylinder out of the equation until you have checked the usual culprits.
[quote=”asimpkin” post=172171]Okay…I got the new compressor installed. I put a vacuum on it for 2 hours and it held after the vacuum as well. When I went to charge the system, the compressor kicked on once, then turned off. I was never able to get the compressor clutch to re-engage. After I put 12 oz in, I was unable to put more in. The compressor never came back on and the pressure on the low side jumped to a static 100 psi. Thoughts?[/quote]
Possible restriction at the TXV.
What was the high side pressure? Did you add PAG oil?
Try compressing the caliper piston by prying the piston away from the back of the pad. Make sure you are inserting a small pry bar (or flat head screw driver) between the piston and the back of the pad. If the piston moves back into the caliper then the caliper is able to work properly. At that point, you will have ruled out the caliper. Time to check the slide pins for excessive corrosion/lack of lube (silicone paste). If you should find corrosion on the pin, use a wire wheel to remove the rust.
Also, make sure the flex hose is not kinked or twisted.
[quote=”jsl720″ post=172153]I tried that but I was told since I don’t have a check engine light coming on it won’t show a CODE.[/quote]
If you have access to an IDS (the Ford software-scantool), you should be able to see any stored codes or be able to look at snap shot data.
[quote=”AlexColorado” post=172118]Hey guys, Avid ETCG fan here. I love watching his videos when I’m about to fall asleep. Hopefully that doesn’t sound creepy and you all partake in this lmao. I drive a 2008 Chevrolet Colorado. Heres some pictures!
This is how you attach pics:
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/9-ETCG-Suggestion-Box/45665-how-to-attach-and-post-a-picture-to-the-forumThe bays I have been working in for the last 3 months are near the guys bathroom and the tire changing room. A lot of traffic throughout the day.
[quote=”Bennygoat” post=172114]I don’t even know why this excites me so much, get a load of these bad boys!
[/quote]
New tools are fun to get. Enjoy! :cheer:
[quote=”Honda1987″ post=172084]I too have an annoying vibration in my 97 Honda accord. Here’s all that i’ve done or had done recently. New shocks and struts, rotors, calipers (TY ETCG) & pads a year ago. Front end alignment. Honda replaced front drivers side wheel bearing a couple months ago. Replaced passenger side CV axle (TY ETCG) a month and half ago. I had a honda certified shop replace the Timing belt and water pump around the same time. They found the distributor o-ring to be leaking onto the radiator hose, so I had them replace those as well.
I have very limited knowledge of mechanics so I’m hoping someone out there can help me figure this out. 🙂 in the past year I’ve taken the car to numerous shops to check the front end. i.e. small vibration. Everyone said everything looks good and tight. I’ve inspected the front end and all looks good and tight. But, after I had the timing belt done and tires rotated and balanced the vibration seemed to be worse. So, had the tires rotated again and that didn’t help. A couple weeks later I took off the front drivers side wheel to check the ball joints etc. and the inside tread was gone off the tire with two skip marks about every 6-8″ around the inside tread. Took it back to my tire shop and got two new front tires. I still have the vibration. It almost feels like the tire is bouncing on the road. I feel it in the steering wheel and floorboard at all speeds. Worse as speed increases.
Please give suggestions of the cause. Thank you.[/quote]You will get more individualized help by creating a new post rather than imbedding yours into a related post of someone elses.
Have you tried having your tires re-balanced?
I would first try to go to the shop you bought the tires from and ask them if they would re-balance your tires. Ask if they have Road Force Balancing equipment available. This equipment can help diagnose a tire or rim issue.[quote=”CrazedAssassin” post=171555]
Eric never installed HIDs.
[/quote]You might be mistaken but I believe he made a How-To video to show the proper way to install and aim them and to share information about the different light intensities of HIDs. If I remember correctly, he used the Element for demonstration.