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Ok found problem, yes timing was off. I guess just a tooth or two. Lesson learned, be more accurate, also learned…there are timing marks on the passenger side of cam belt cog…much easier to check proper setting
Ok found problem, yes timing was off. I guess just a tooth or two. Lesson learned, be more accurate, also learned…there are timing marks on the passenger side of cam belt cog…much easier to check proper setting
Fuel, ok….no hoses to speak of, agree on timing, maybe tooth or two should still run, cannot imagine it is off, checked, rechecked, it has to be electrical….
Fuel, ok….no hoses to speak of, agree on timing, maybe tooth or two should still run, cannot imagine it is off, checked, rechecked, it has to be electrical….
OK, got it fixed. However, I think I had a twist on the situation that Eric described in his video. We ran the test as discribed. We had blinking light when testing the ICU or igniter and we had spark at the coil but didnt have spark at the plugs (we checked serveral of them). But, my buddy said he thought the color of the spark at the coil was the wrong color; it was yellow and should be more blue. So based on that we replaced the coil and it worked. So in the end I feel I had a weak coil. Now with that said, there are some variables there that could have created the weak spark….ie poor connections etc. Regardless the car runs now and I am happy! Thanks everyone for guiding me to the fix and most of all thank you Eric for what you do! I personally have learned so much from your videos and this forum.
OK, got it fixed. However, I think I had a twist on the situation that Eric described in his video. We ran the test as discribed. We had blinking light when testing the ICU or igniter and we had spark at the coil but didnt have spark at the plugs (we checked serveral of them). But, my buddy said he thought the color of the spark at the coil was the wrong color; it was yellow and should be more blue. So based on that we replaced the coil and it worked. So in the end I feel I had a weak coil. Now with that said, there are some variables there that could have created the weak spark….ie poor connections etc. Regardless the car runs now and I am happy! Thanks everyone for guiding me to the fix and most of all thank you Eric for what you do! I personally have learned so much from your videos and this forum.
1. Not sure of any bulletins
2. Spark plugs are wet with fuel
3. Problem just happen this morning. Car drove last night
4. Mileage is 215K. Timing belt et al replaced 20 K miles ago
5. Spark plugs have less than 20K miles on them. Using OEM, rotor and distrib cap replaced with new plug.
6. Wiring appears good for year of vehicle.
7. Battery new. Car turns over normally, but no start.I have already reviewed some of the vids u identified. Having a little trouble getting my head wrapped around Eric’s vid on Honda ignition on testing the testing of igniter (Ignition Control Module in my Haynes manual)
1. Not sure of any bulletins
2. Spark plugs are wet with fuel
3. Problem just happen this morning. Car drove last night
4. Mileage is 215K. Timing belt et al replaced 20 K miles ago
5. Spark plugs have less than 20K miles on them. Using OEM, rotor and distrib cap replaced with new plug.
6. Wiring appears good for year of vehicle.
7. Battery new. Car turns over normally, but no start.I have already reviewed some of the vids u identified. Having a little trouble getting my head wrapped around Eric’s vid on Honda ignition on testing the testing of igniter (Ignition Control Module in my Haynes manual)
Ok. Bottom line. Top clutch switch was not being fully depressed with clutch peddle pushed in. So, I took bottom one off (car thinks peddle pushed in) and wired top switch fully pushed in (car thinks clutch fully depressed). Yes I know I bypassed a safety feature, but that is acceptable to me. Yes,I did try to adjust bottom switch so it would depress fully with clutch peddle fully depressed, didn’t work