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First of all thank everybody for helping :kiss:
The problem with the door switches on skoda is that there is no simple testing. They are nicely integrated into the doormechanic. You have to open up the door if you even want to get to one of the switches. But in fact i have already excluded the door switches because i dont think all 4 door switches and the trunk switch died at the same time.
I also thought that there must be a control unit or something like that but unfortunately i cant find any wiring diagram with google. And i think without this diagram iam really fucked up solving this problem
First of all thank everybody for helping :kiss:
The problem with the door switches on skoda is that there is no simple testing. They are nicely integrated into the doormechanic. You have to open up the door if you even want to get to one of the switches. But in fact i have already excluded the door switches because i dont think all 4 door switches and the trunk switch died at the same time.
I also thought that there must be a control unit or something like that but unfortunately i cant find any wiring diagram with google. And i think without this diagram iam really fucked up solving this problem
yea but why have you changed a good pair of brake pads? I mean they look as good as new, you did not even had to push back the brake piston. Squeling on new brake pads is not unusual. it disapears it most cases.
The calipers also look like new, so the brake fluid cant be that old. Is there a reason why you change this or is it just for training? 🙂
yea but why have you changed a good pair of brake pads? I mean they look as good as new, you did not even had to push back the brake piston. Squeling on new brake pads is not unusual. it disapears it most cases.
The calipers also look like new, so the brake fluid cant be that old. Is there a reason why you change this or is it just for training? 🙂
Most times when working without torque wrench small bolts are overtightened and large bolts have not enough torque on it.
Most times when working without torque wrench small bolts are overtightened and large bolts have not enough torque on it.
Heres a good video of testing and refilling your coolant system with an air tool
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZOIiqyVx59Y[/video]
Heres a good video of testing and refilling your coolant system with an air tool
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZOIiqyVx59Y[/video]
When i change my coolant i use a vaccuum refiller like the one in the attachement.
It is a really usefull tool. it helps you …
1: test for leaks in the coolant system (when you loose vaccumm you have a leak)
2: refill the whole coolant system without any air bubblesthey dont even cost much. I got mine for 70€
When i change my coolant i use a vaccuum refiller like the one in the attachement.
It is a really usefull tool. it helps you …
1: test for leaks in the coolant system (when you loose vaccumm you have a leak)
2: refill the whole coolant system without any air bubblesthey dont even cost much. I got mine for 70€
On thing i forgot to mention is that the same problem occurs on the other rear disk brake too. The effect on the other side is lower but it is there. It looks like that the brake pads do not grind in the area of the outer ring of the rotor. But actually the brake pad is worn out more in the area of the outer ring.
Last time i tried to fix this problem i pushed the piston back to see if it is stuck. The piston moved very smooth and with no problem.
Is it possible that the rotor got overheated and hardened on the area of the outer ring?
