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You know what, upon rereading the topic, I don’t think that the balance is the issue, I was’t paying full attention and jumped to a conclusion, sorry and I hope someone else could answer your question better,
shops that do wheel alignments have these machines. A tire and a rim could be balanced perfectly, off the car, but the rotating parts that are not part of the rim could be whats causing the steering wheel to shake like crazy at 60 mph, but not at all at 70 mph.
sounds like your wheels aren’t balanced, and may need counter weights installed on them. Ask the shop to balance your wheels on the car. They have a machine that aligns the wheel when its off the car (they do it when replacing tires), that obviously doesn’t take the deviation of the bearings, brakes and hub into account. It should cost around 45$ to do all four wheels (at east where I’m from). The machine they use for this looks like this: https://i.ytimg.com/vi/hz_vhHEk-qQ/maxresdefault.jpg
Good luck.I’m looking at the gauge read-I know the temperature itself doesn’t spike, but rather the read on the gauge and i think it’s voltage (current to be precise) leaking from the headlights’ harness to the gauge’s signal, through bad grounding or a short circuit due to stripped insulation somewhere along the harness’s path or maybe from the relays or fuses…
Does someone have any experience with a similar situation on this model?edit: Just had a thought: do the two temperature sensors (the gauge sensor and the ecu sensor) have the same connector? can I switch them to isolate the problem?
I’ll also try measuring the resistance on the sensor while flicking the lights on and off to rule the sensor out.First, I do appreciate your responses!
1. The coolant level is OK-no losses in radiator nor in the reserve tank.
2. As far as the thermostat goes, I don’t see any reason in replacing it (absolutely nothing points to it).
3. This is almost certainly an electrical thing, since the spike is immediate and momentary-meaning, Temp. spikes the moment I turn my parking lights on, and drops back the moment I turn them off. this Phenomenon is more pronounced the hotter the engine gets-When in operating temperature, There is no spike (or very little), when it gets hotter the spike gets bigger. more mathematically: Spike~dT; dT=T-To, To is operating temperature.
Or, spike is proportional to the difference between the current coolant temperature and the operating temperature.
also the turn signals do not cause the same spike, only the parking lights/low/high beam.So I Have a bad fan switch, But that still doesn’t explain the temp. read spike when turning the parking lights on.
It surely is an electrical problem, You guys have ideas where to start looking for the bad wires?Thanks for your replies guys!
I will bleed the air out of the system on the weekend, just to be sure.
about the fan-Its working, but not as hard and consistently as one might expect during an overheat. I think Its control switch is busted, but i don’t know how to confirm that…
edit: saw the video-will do, thanks!ended up checking the spark plugs-which were in good condition, and changed oil-to the manufacturer’s specified 5w-30, and hadn’t had a problem since, sorry no fix here, just a misdiagnosis…
