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I think you’re on the right track. I had a 97 BMW that would randomly die (but never going that fast, usually when I was going slower). It was kinda random and if you waited around it would start back up. Finally the computer tripped a camshaft position sensor. Replaced that and it fixed the problem.
I believe you need a scope to accurate test cam/crank sensors. I would suggest visual inspection of wiring harness, see if it’s contacting anything hot, wiggle some harness around while car is running to see if it dies. Perhaps while taking caution, tap the crank sensor/cam sensor while car is running to see if that causes the car to act up.
I noticed the coolant was fresh, so they changed it. I’m pretty sure they ran some tests. I actually brought my coolant tester, and pumped it up. Had it up to 10 psi which took forever because the reservoir tank wasn’t full (didn’t have any water to dump in). I went inside to BS for about 6-7 minutes and it dropped to 7psi. Possibly a cracked block? I couldn’t find any external leaks.
The repair shop has been in business for about 12 years I believe? They do service and body work on a handful of fleet cars here in town, including ours. However, I do question them sometimes.
But I do believe they would have run the simple tests that you mentioned. Unless a head gasket is bad, I’m not sure what they would expect to find.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1L4nB2NdA0U – coolant temp sensor causes no start. Coincidentally on a Ford Taurus 3.0
I wonder if this vehicle has a gauge sweep test. You may need a high level scan tool though. I have a 2000 Ford mustang, and there is a built in option to test the gauges. It sweeps them all through.
I had an issue with my fuel gauge not working when I bought the car. Upon inspection at the fuel pump housing, the lever makes electrical contact with resistors, and sends the signal up front. I ended up replacing just that side part, and now it mostly works. Unfortunately my gauge registers 0 when the tank is completely full, and seems to catch up about 60-70 miles burned off. And my empty is just under 1/4 mark instead of at E. I wanted to change the entire assembly but couldn’t for the life of me get the plug disconnected.
My guess is that seeing as you are getting different ohm readings, the sender is working properly. However you might want to inspect it anyway. If that’s ok, my guess is there’s something going on with the gauge. There are windings and stuff in there, not really repairable unless you send to a specialty shop. Maybe bad gauge cluster?
I haven’t had a Honda is a long time, but I’m 99.5% sure that Hondas, along with other import manufactures, it is completely normal for the fans to stay on a bit after the vehicle is shut off. If I recall I even remember stickers saying “CAUTION – fan may turn on when vehicle is off”.
Bleeding air out is fairly easy. Usually there is a bleeder valve that you open and let the air bubbles out. But unless you are overheating, you most likely don’t have to worry about it.
[quote=”cap269″ post=134789]The solution is to verify the correct placement of the timing chain, yes. Also, another video from ScannerDanner for more timing chain fun related to your problem.[/quote]
Ok, so I went through all the work to pull off the timing chain and reset it. I followed the factory manual and I saw exactly how it goes.
Line up crank pulley to TDC, white mark points at indicator
Cam sprocket pulley dowel pins face 9 o clock for the intake cam and 12 o clock for the exhaust cam
3 painted links of the chain. One goes at the bottom and the other 2 go on marks on the cam sprockets.Bundled it all up. Mind you I had to drop the lower and upper oil pan, man it wasn’t bad but time consuming and tedious.
Went to start it, SAME FREAKING THING!!!!!! Surge 3 times then dies. WTF?!?!?!!!!!!!
I cleaned the MAF when I did the project just for good measure (CRC MAF cleaner). If I disconnect the MAF and start it, it will hold idle. Runs like poop, and won’t rev past about 2500 rpm, but will hold and stay running.
I paid justanswer.com for an “expert” and it was a shitty experience. He mentioned the MAF might be bad since there are no codes, and the behavior changes with it disconnected. Well a friend who has a car with the same MAF sensor, I swapped it, no go. Same thing.
He also mentioned I would get a code if timing was off a tooth, and misfire code if it was off more than a tooth. That makes sense to me. He also mentioned that there is a possibility of it jumping a tooth upon startup since I did not pull the fuel pump fuse to “prime the system” due to the oil tensioner, which makes sense to me.
So tomorrow I’m going to pull the cam cover and see if I have 12 links on the marks on the cam sprockets when the motor is at TDC.
ANY OTHER IDEAS? I’m ready to eat the cost I put into this and throw in the towel.
First thing, take your battery and alternator in to get charged/checked to make sure they are working properly. Make sure you ground cables are nice and solid, free of any defects.