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Alright cool then I guess other people do this too.
I only put a thin layer and I did put a layer both on the rotor hat and drum as well as the wheels (where the wheels contact the rotor hat and drum).
SilGlyde is not so much bearing grease or multipurpose grease, it’s safe for rubber, designed for brake parts and people swear by it for brakes. I was looking for an alternative because I didn’t want to use the a-seize and this was the next logical thing. I figured if it’s used near the rotors anyway (on the backs of pads, between shims and on all caliper and bracket to brake pad contact points) then it ought to be fine.
Multipurpose greases would probably melt and run since they usually go up to about 250 degrees while SilGlyde is at least 400 degrees and I figure the rotors won’t get that hot anyway.
The reason I don’t want to use anti-seize is because I don’t like the silvery residue that gets on everything. If I need to change to a spare wheel outside somewhere I would hate to deal with that. Plus I heard people used it for brakes (which you probably shouldn’t) and it ended up running even though it claims to resist temps of 1600 degrees or more. I can’t get the copper kind around me, I only have a bottle of the nickel kind. So I would use anti-seize for under the rotor to prevent the rotor from sticking to hub since that’s a more permanent location but for where I’m more likely to touch I would go with SilGlyde.
I also did wirebrush the rust off the hat a little and the center hub protrusion but this was only something I wanted to do to tide me over a month. In a few weeks I’m going to take everything off and seriously go at the rust with machine power (dremel wire brush) and I guess I’ll revisit the grease at that point.
Cool I guess I’ll have the alignment checked out afterwards. I am using all OEM hardware and the quick strut itself is entirely OEM Honda, the dealership special ordered it from Honda (they put it together and ship it to dealership as a quick strut). I priced out the individual components, if I were going with individual OEM Honda components I wouldn’t say money anyway and having to fool around with the compressor kills any savings. I also wanted to replace all of the parts like the bump stop and boot (the boots are destroyed on the ones on my car now and the bump stop looks like it saw better days). Plus a new strut mount is better than old.
Thanks for the replies.
Yeah the pink part is going to not compress as much as you said since it’s not as close to the part that actually compresses (the shock absorber which is roughly right above ball joint) and conversely the ball joint is as far as you can get from the compliance bushings. Only included that in case the other spots weren’t good and I had no choice.
Alright great, I guess I’ll have to roll a dice about which one to choose now for the red, yellow and green. Just wondering do you guys happen to know why those bolts circled in green have a tapered end? Could it be that they expected it to be lifted on the ends of those or expected someone to hit them with a hammer? I’ll probably go with the green because I’m spreading the lifting load out on two spots as opposed to one but I think based on what you guys said all of the spots will do (except pink simply because it compresses less).
Is it also true that you have to do an alignment? I remember when I watched the ETCG video about this a long time ago I think he said you didn’t need one but it was a good idea to get one? I do know for my car (and probably others) that Honda sells camber bolts that drive through the knuckle and shock absorber rather than the two plaint bolts so obviously the camber can be adjusted at that point. But I think if I preload to ride height then the alignment shouldn’t change much because the compliance bushings are in their preferred position before the knuckle is torqued to the shock.