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Cap269 is correct. Clean it with Throttle Body and Air-Intake Cleaner. I’d just buy a new one if your getting stalling when stopped at lights or idling. There located on the throttle body. Sometimes held on by torx.
You guy all rock!!! Success!!! I did require the window to be rolled down all the way as said. Also there was a ridge that required the trim to be pushed up and in at the same time. Thanks again to all. The forum here is super knowledgeable. I like to learn new things everyday especially involving wrenching on automotive stuff. I think i’ll learn a lot from you guys. 🙂 Here are some pics
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Part that I had to remove
The whole trim panel will easily separate off the door once everything’s removed, except for the section circled in red in the picture. Ya the seat belt mechanism being built into the door is very strange. Only car I’ve seen with it 🙁 and the seatbelt itself does go into the door at the top of the red circled trim panel. Theres a plastic bit that it goes into and I hope you can separate it and slide it up the seatbelt.
I did put it back together to look pretty 😛 I’ll get a shot of the stripped version on as soon as i can. 😉
defiantly check the horn relay under the dash. So ur saying ur car is obd0, I bet ur right. Hope thats the problem.
I got you barneyb. Maybe I’m just being a sissy. 😆 I’ve got to change my mind frame and try to think like a car manufacture does. This will help me progress forward quicker I bet.
OBD0 is generally used on Honda’s to refer to 1988-1991 ECUs.
OBD1 was 92-95,
OBD2A was 1996-1998So I believe you have OBD1 in your vehicle also here is a pic of the horn relay location
Possible its a Multi-Function Relay, but do look at the location in the picture and find the type of relay, maybe try swapping one thats the same and see if it works.
ATF 50% with Acetone 50% apparently is twice good as any penetrating oil according to tests. Never tried it myself but heard very good things. JS is on the money. Try penetrating oil or ATF & Acetone Mix and if you succeed you maybe should put new bleeders in. If you fail, means new brake calipers 🙁
PB Blaster is great stuff, I’m not such a fan of liquid wrench but PB Blaster will make life alot easier as its awesome. The longer you leave it to penetrate the better, multiple application if its sketchy, I wish I started using penetrating oil sooner. I used to break alot of rusty stuff and had to buy whole new parts, it costs alot more really not buying it I find.
1:Your Horn Fuse is blown (sound like you checked it)
2:Your Horn Relay is blown(its like a fuse panel sometimes under the hood) Switch a matching relay, see if it works
3:Your actual Horn(sound making speaker thing) is bad, use a jumper cable to jump from the positive. see if it harps
4: Your steering wheel horn part is bad 🙁 This requires alot of work sometimes, disconnect battery to prevent airbagIt does seem like there is some sort of lip in there ukrkoz. I actually had the window cranked all the wall up to the top 😆 , when I was attempting removal. I’ll try it again with the window all the way down. Ur saying push in at the top of the door trim panel(circled red) and then slide up correct? Thanks for the help Jinzo and ukrkoz.
I’m pulling out only, just trying to be careful(maybe to much so). I’ll try to push up on it and see if it goes. I have a plastic puddy knife so i’ll also try to pry it up. I’ll get back to you with the results of your suggestion.
