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Just pass the filter looks like this.
[Just Past Filter]
Above picture is where fuel gushed out during wrestle, just near the bend, where plastic holders are…RUSTY!!!
Continuing further down the lines to the engine is fairly rust free as we go on
[Moving towards engine]
[Moving EVEN MORE towards engine, Around Front Left Wheel’s]
It’s really dark in these picture but the fuel lines near the Front Left Wheel up higher are rust free. Can I tag into them there?Little Update,
This is the fuel tank I dropped off the Buick!! Old fuel pump tossed aside will be replaced as soon as funds are available. Screw driver and a hammer totally worked with some penetrate oil. Nice tip!!! 🙂 U saved me $80 not buying GM’s Special tool….
The tank itself has nylon lines up to the quick-connects i believe. I have got 2 out of the 3 connections off. 1 broke off inside….The broken part of connection won’t come out on the fuel tank side…. 🙁 🙁The line broke on the vehicle side during the wrestle to attempt removal of the line from GM’s “quick” disconnect’s..
rust’s not very strong![TANK SIDE]
[CAR SIDE]
There’s the other side, where, the tank’s 3 lines connect to.Can I just replace it all with fuel injection hose and use hose clamps? Maybe brass fitting at the nylon lines on tank & all rubber fuel line from the quick connects til the rusts gone and just hack out that rust section and replace with it with rubber? Should just be able to clamp the line over the metal pipe that’s not rusted.
Will this work? I’ve heard short segments of rubber repair only is this true.Do I need metal all the way or most of the way. I have some copper nickel brake/fuel line…
[GM Harness Dis-connect Location]
This was a “pre-production model” no idea if that’s why its like this. No electrical dis-connect for dropping the fuel tank at “body passthrough”
This is really strange.
[Rest of Electrical Harness Heading Rearward]
I tried to disconnect the “body through” electrical connector.
Eithier:
#1:GM Electrical section missed the body through connector and just shipped it anyways, and its just solid wire all the way through where a connector should have been.
#2: or it was wrapped up in electrical tape due to a ghetto repair that was very hard to cut even with a carpet knife(i didn’t want to cut into the loom and do damage to the wires, I felt enough slack in the wires to get to ground) This is a really bad way to do this your right…..I’ll dissect the loom now that i have more space.
It was gas for sure, it smelled and when I was fighting with the quick disconnect’s and hadn’t even undone 1 yet, it was still pouring out gas out of a bend point in the lines. I’ll send pics soon sorry.
I’m see about removing the pump to….
Thanks again jonsey1886!!!Really good information in your last post!! Thanks B) Just drop the fuel tank today!!! Couldn’t find a drain. I search endlessly but it was tight(Low ride height vehicle and low jack stands) and i couldn’t see a lot so I’ll check again tomorrow underneath it everywhere once I get it on the bench.
Your right its not leaking from the tank regardless of how complex the top is geez…..No issues. What seem’s suspect is the pump 4 sure. The ring is very rusted so the pump has never been changed probably. Can I use a screw driver and hammer the ring to dissemble or do i need the $70 Special tool?
Alot of gas was still left in it. Feels like about 15-20L in weight. Pretty violent coming off but it was very close to the ground to limit stretch on electrical harnesses. And i was off the to the side of it with a impact in hand.
Nothing escaped fuel wise……but my fuel lines from the tank to the engine(around the filter and forward) are very rusty and seems like they are all leaking at one point at the body……YIKES!!!!!!!! The tank fuel lines network on-top of the tank seem amazing condition no rust, sweet!!!!could this have cause the weird issues(the fuel leak at lines)…or just the pump? I’m replacing both but i’m just curious. Are fuel lines very hard? Any tips and tricks? :huh:
college man is right!!! Get as much information as you can before attacking a problem.
If you battery light is coming on it usually means a issue with the charging system of the vehicle. My vehicle takes about 3 minutes of driving to sense charging issue and illuminate a battery icon on dash(mine was an alternator). You alternator sounds good at 14v but dont assume your battery is good beacuse it says 12v at sitting. Load test your battery!!!! The oldest sketchiest looking batteries i’ve seen pass and new looking nice batteries fail.
Is your battery secured to the vehicle and not moving around?
Get a free battery test at a local auto garage.
Wiggle wires on alt and battery when testing. If the voltage drops that there is your issue. Wiring connections could be a issue especially in motion.
The fact that it got cold and now you have issues sound like a battery issue. Old weak batteries don’t take cold well and function fine in summer then winter comes…..No panel access above tank on rendezvous. I guess in have to drop the tank off the vehicle….What should I change when I do get it off the vehicle?
Fuel pump and filter obviously but should I also replace Vapor Canister Vent Valve / Solenoid?(I think its on the fuel tank?…lol) If its stuck open I should get a check engine light(Haven’t run it very much so maybe it didn’t trigger?) and fuel vapor might be leaking…. Anyone deal with this type of emission system before? Am I thinking about this wrongly?
🙂 Once you tighen sound will leave I believe, if you have new wheel bearing then all should be well after that point.
Yes in Canada, Ontario anyways is about $1.07 per litre currently …..
So if I add $25 and leave it there should be no start issue then i guess….right?
My fuel pressure is 45psi (seems decent I belive, not to high or low)when I add and it starts but the start issue mentioned in mind, and 230,000km(about 140,000 miles.) on the odometer, do you guys think a new fuel pump is in order then more fuel? Or just add alot more fuel and try it?
I’ve never done a fuel pump so I’m excited to learn something new, how long do yours last about? like 100,000 km(62,000 miles) if you keep 1/4 level or higher all the time? Just don’t know sq-auk about these electrical fuel pump systems…..
half-shafts might be the issue, cheaper than transmission for-sure. They control up and down movement of the road and are essentially your axle I believe. possible order online at rock auto and replace maybe? Anyone else have thoughts? Is this halfshaft play??? I have the same issue into a differential at the front of a 4×4 truck. Is this normal for FWD or Diffs in the front to have rotational play?
I didn’t constantly run the engine… just for 3 minutes total runtime…. and not to damge it…With $5 added twice there should be a good 10 litres of fuel in the tank, thats not enough? really?
Also your saying that the fuel pump could be slowly failing so it would requires to be submerged in fuel to function sorta ok? but having the level that low is not only bad for your fuel pump, but benchmarks(or tests) the pump ability to deliver fuel efficiently to the engine, so it could be a weak pump your saying….likely caused by people running the level low…..
#1: Replace pump
#2: fill it 1/2 way at-least all the time and don’t care…?as long as I dont notice abnormal fuel loss right?
nightflyer sounds right ,bad alternators can cause all type of weird intermittent electrical issues, is it under warranty?
Are the rims and brake clearances ok? Jack up the side in the most question, support it safely!!!
Use a flashlight and rotate the wheel while its up look for tolerance issues… Tires shops dont do it for some reason…..lol Then check other clearances and for physical damage? Rotating it by hand slowly can say a lot. It should be easy to rotate, if not why?I’d Also torque your axle nuts and see what they say Left to right….
Wheel Bearings are extremely sensitive to torque. That axle nut is part of that. They can fail if that nut(axle nut) is to tight or loose. Mine are 190 ft lbs but most are above 160 ft lbs requiring a heavy duty Torque wrench and socket. Good luck my friend.I’d invest in new wheel bearings a torque wrench and socket.