Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorReplies
-
A set of HVAC gauges would help you diagnose the problem. You may want to see if you can borrow a set of gauges or purchase an inexpensive set of gauges from Amazon. The low side pressure and high side pressure readings will be dependent on the ambient temperature outside. IF the compressor is functioning properly then, assuming outside temperature of 90F, the low side should be around 45-55 psi and the high side around 250-270 psi. IF the A/C compressor is running and both sides read the same pressure then this would indicate the compressor is not functioning.
Also, be sure you have pulled a good vacuum on the A/C system before you attempt to charge. There can be no air in the system. Vacuum needs to be pulled on the system for a minimum 30-45 minutes to be sure you have pulled out all of the air and water. Yes, there is some moisture in the air stream. I have a separate vacuum gauge that reads in microns. The maximum vacuum reading on the system should be 500 microns. The system should hold vacuum for about 15 minutes with no movement on the gauges.
IF you have not pulled a vacuum on the system and given the age of the car, I would consider replacing the desiccant dryer as well.
IF all of the above has been met then, the outcoming air temperature on the center dash vents should be around 38F-45F with the car in motion around 60 mph. Be sure the A/C is on recirculation and the fan speed is around medium, not full blast. Be advised that the air temperature out of the vents will be dependent on the temperature outside and if the car is in motion. The hotter the temperature outside, the warmer the air out of the register. You can assume 50F-52F with an ambient temperature of 90F outside stopped in traffic. If stopped in traffic the outside air will be slightly warmer. Be sure to drive the car for about 15 minutes to get the A/C system time to circulate.
With the heat wave this week, A/C would be great.
I can relate. I guess it depends on your available time and your resources. For me there have been some simple tools I could fabricate because the price for a specialized tool was too expensive for my budget.
I sincerely appreciate your time and effort sharing this with me. I am pretty competent with computers and the Windows 7 operating system. Guess I will need to dive in and try it!
Thanks again!
I would hold off on going to a service technician for now. Pick up a digital meat thermometer from the local grocery store. Place it in the center air vent of the car. With the A/C on, and set for recirculating, the air temperature on a 95F day should be around 50F while the car is idle in traffic. While moving the air temperature should drop to 42F-45F. If the car A/C cannot reach those temperatures then you may want a technician to check the charge. It could be low.
I live in a region of 95F-100F days during the summer and very humid. I can achieve 43F on a hot day traveling at 45 mph.
June 26, 2018 at 9:28 pm in reply to: 1997 Ford Escort AC blowing hot. I have done some basic diagnostics #889242That tells you that you have a charge in the system. What you need to do is start the car with the gauges connected. Turn on the A/C and watch the low side and high side gauge. with the car running about 1,200 rpm the low side should run down from around 40 psig to about 28 psig. This is with the compressor running. The high side should be around 225 psig – 300 psig with the compressor running.
Before I would connect gauge, I suggest you verify the compressor clutch is engaging and the compressor running. Also, if you have a cabin air filter, be sure it has been changed and is clean. I have diagnosed, literally, a dozen HVAC problems with dirty cabin filters.
Typically it’s something simple. Look for the low hanging fruit and check the easy parts first.
I had the same problem with a 1992 Honda Accord. There was oil in the plug wells. The oil will deteriorate the rubber and the boot will break down causing an arc to jump over from the plug boot to the engine block. Mine were cracked really bad.
Have someone sit in the driver’s seat with the car at idle. Go to the tail pipe. Look for a faint trace of black smoke. Rev the engine to 1,200-1,500 rpm and see if the smoke is more prevalent. If so, then I would suspect incomplete combustion due to the plug boot arcing.
In my situation, the hesitation would only occur at lower rpm taking off from a stop. Once the car achieved an rpm of 2,500-3,000 rpm then it wasn’t noticeable. in my case, I originally thought it was a clutch plate slipping.
I suggest a good set of NGK plug wires and replace the wires and boots; unless you have a coil pack. Then replace the coil pack. Either way, you need to fix the oil leak into the plug wells. Recommend resealing the plug wells and new valve cover gasket with new grommets.
This could be a number of things. I suggest you keep it simple. If this is a Honda then, I would check the cabin air filter located behind the glove box. My personal experience has been, many people loose that ‘cooling effect’ because there is no airflow across the cooling coil (evaporator coil). This is common with a dirty air filter. Second, see if you can hear the A/C clutch engage. It should be a noticeable click and there will be a short, temporary, drop in idle RPM. It is best to see if you can visually see the clutch engage by looking that the A/C compressor under the hood. If the A/C compressor is not engaging when the A/C is turned on inside the car then, there could be a low charge on the system. The low pressure switch will keep the compressor from turning on. This is to prevent damage to the compressor. You may need to find a technician you can trust to check the charge on the system. It will require R-134A connectors.
Start simple before you assume the worst. Typically it is something simple.
-
AuthorReplies