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Welp, after a bit of time I managed to get under the car and take it for a test drive.
I unplugged the knock sensor and reset the ECU. Following this, the engine only had a code 41 – the same primary oxygen sensor heating circuit code. I’ve got a spare o2 sensor that I need to throw on when I can borrow an o2 socket tool.
After driving for a bit and getting it up to operating temp I noticed that it still had that bit of restriction around ~2k rpm when I was heavier on the throttle. Parked it and checked the codes again, this time, the same 2 codes: #41 and #23 – knock sensor.
I think it can be concluded then, that its most likely the wiring between the sensor and ECU causing the code… Reading around, it seems that knock sensors need shielded wiring from to protect it from RF interference (?). Not sure exactly how it all works, but when I wired the knock sensor into the ECU, I used regular ol’ 16ga primary wire.. Any other thoughts on what could be causing this? Thanks in advance..
Hm… Reading into it a bit more it seems like the knock sensor is a good culprit – in combination with my loud valve ticking? Anyways, I shall try unplugging it and seeing if it changes.
As for the wiring – or repinning rather, on B18c1 and I believe some other H series intakes, there is an IAB (intake air bypass, or secondary butterfly/runners) that needs to be wired into a GSR ecu for it to function. Typically, people borrow the wire from the EVAP purge solenoid and repin the ECU plug so that the EVAP purge solenoid wire becomes the IAB wire, thus losing the EVAP purge solenoid function. This is what I did. Again, only a knock sensor wire was added from the engine harness to the ECU, and the repinning of the EVAP purge solenoid wire to the IAB.
See pic:
[spoiler]Example of repinning procedure
