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There’s basically three ways to go about this.
First, you can use a drill bit that is a tiny tad smaller than the circumference of the broken off screw. Drill through the bit stuck in the hole and it should crumble and come out to some extent.
Second, if available, you can weld another screw or the broken off bit back onto the stuck bit and turn it out carefully.
Third, you can try cutting a cross into the tip with a pressure grinder or perhaps a small file. Soak it with antirust solvent and carefully remove it with a Phillips screwdriver. Might work with a flathead too, but you might end up damaging it more that way. You can also cut a flat grove into the bit and use a chisel to get it loose.
All three methods require measured amounts of force, since the A/T is a fairly touchy item on a vehicle.
If you mean the nut on the back that holds the screw to the pan, you may need to take it down and weld it back on, else you will have leakage around any alternative construction.
Good luck mate
There’s basically three ways to go about this.
First, you can use a drill bit that is a tiny tad smaller than the circumference of the broken off screw. Drill through the bit stuck in the hole and it should crumble and come out to some extent.
Second, if available, you can weld another screw or the broken off bit back onto the stuck bit and turn it out carefully.
Third, you can try cutting a cross into the tip with a pressure grinder or perhaps a small file. Soak it with antirust solvent and carefully remove it with a Phillips screwdriver. Might work with a flathead too, but you might end up damaging it more that way. You can also cut a flat grove into the bit and use a chisel to get it loose.
All three methods require measured amounts of force, since the A/T is a fairly touchy item on a vehicle.
If you mean the nut on the back that holds the screw to the pan, you may need to take it down and weld it back on, else you will have leakage around any alternative construction.
Good luck mate
If a car makes a certain noise under a certain condition, one should deduct from said condition a potential reason for the noise.
So working down from the thermo, it seems like it only occurs under regular operating condition, so closed loop 80°C (approx 190°F). Considering the time it takes for the noise to occur, perhaps the cooling fan or related belts could be a cause, as that time would need to pass before the car needed to start cooling operations. The cooling system would be a good start for diagnosis, and squeal from the engine compartment might suggest pulleys or belts being misaligned or wet.
Let’s not comment on idiotic statements and stay focused on finding a solution for the problem shall we.
If a car makes a certain noise under a certain condition, one should deduct from said condition a potential reason for the noise.
So working down from the thermo, it seems like it only occurs under regular operating condition, so closed loop 80°C (approx 190°F). Considering the time it takes for the noise to occur, perhaps the cooling fan or related belts could be a cause, as that time would need to pass before the car needed to start cooling operations. The cooling system would be a good start for diagnosis, and squeal from the engine compartment might suggest pulleys or belts being misaligned or wet.
Let’s not comment on idiotic statements and stay focused on finding a solution for the problem shall we.
Hey Mister Butler,
If the transmission will not engage in any gears whatsoever, you may be running it dry or the torque converter might be bad. Transmission control unit could also be a reasonable first guess.
I’m personally a huge fan of all things fixed myself, but I will say this much, in Germany, not even dealership shops do auto tranny overhauls anymore. Usually, they swap for new parts as the reconstruction is extremely fidgety, especially the fluid body part (not sure what you call it in US English, sorry). You could conceivably rebuild bits like a single gear slipping due to a faulty clutch disc or, another favorite, the ballast valves get stuck and block a gear from working right.
But your symptoms lead me to believe it’s perhaps a control unit or connection problem. I saw that a long time ago on a 89 lebaron, it wouldn’t engage in any gears anymore because it had severe leakage which lead to torque converter failure.
Good luck mate!
Hey Mister Butler,
If the transmission will not engage in any gears whatsoever, you may be running it dry or the torque converter might be bad. Transmission control unit could also be a reasonable first guess.
I’m personally a huge fan of all things fixed myself, but I will say this much, in Germany, not even dealership shops do auto tranny overhauls anymore. Usually, they swap for new parts as the reconstruction is extremely fidgety, especially the fluid body part (not sure what you call it in US English, sorry). You could conceivably rebuild bits like a single gear slipping due to a faulty clutch disc or, another favorite, the ballast valves get stuck and block a gear from working right.
But your symptoms lead me to believe it’s perhaps a control unit or connection problem. I saw that a long time ago on a 89 lebaron, it wouldn’t engage in any gears anymore because it had severe leakage which lead to torque converter failure.
Good luck mate!
I remember someone telling me about an old and not too common problem on mid 90ies Blazers. Somehow there was a fault in individual fuel injector harness connectors that liked to cause that sort of symptom. Weird indeed. Other than that IAC is a great way to start. Does your car diesel at all?
I remember someone telling me about an old and not too common problem on mid 90ies Blazers. Somehow there was a fault in individual fuel injector harness connectors that liked to cause that sort of symptom. Weird indeed. Other than that IAC is a great way to start. Does your car diesel at all?
What could potentially happen is a leak appearing after the car runs for a few minutes. That leak could slightly humidify your serpentine belt or something else, or could just cause a hissing sound.
Make sure that is not the case.
What we had one time was a thermostat being installed the wrong way around. I’m not sure what car it was on, certainly a Japanese one. I think it even worked somewhat, but it did cause eventual leakage. I think it was a mid 80ies Pathfinder 2.4. I remember hearing something from the engine bay rather than actually seeing the leak itself as it was hidden away behind a few hoses and wires.
What could potentially happen is a leak appearing after the car runs for a few minutes. That leak could slightly humidify your serpentine belt or something else, or could just cause a hissing sound.
Make sure that is not the case.
What we had one time was a thermostat being installed the wrong way around. I’m not sure what car it was on, certainly a Japanese one. I think it even worked somewhat, but it did cause eventual leakage. I think it was a mid 80ies Pathfinder 2.4. I remember hearing something from the engine bay rather than actually seeing the leak itself as it was hidden away behind a few hoses and wires.
If you need to get it out, well measured brass hammering might help, or perhaps running a few thick wires through potential openings and giving it a good jolt with something heavy or torque-y 😉
If you need to get it out, well measured brass hammering might help, or perhaps running a few thick wires through potential openings and giving it a good jolt with something heavy or torque-y 😉
