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You can try with the tire on. The tire can add weight which at slow speeds will “hide” the noise. The second reason is that you won’t be able to get your ear as close to accurately hear the noise. Sometimes wheel bearings can be bad with no noise at low speeds. A lot of this has to depend on how far gone and the type of bearing you have on your wheel. Eric is pointing out the most complete method to look for noises.
I’d start with the tire on, look for wobble by moving it back and forth. Then look for wobble after spinning the tire. If all checks out, it still may be a good idea to remove the tire and put your ear or better a stethoscope near the bearing and listen for noises.
Good point about the 30 days for the warranty! I didn’t think about that as the last used car I bought was an “as is.” Thanks for the reminder that some states still require some warranty
Good point about the 30 days for the warranty! I didn’t think about that as the last used car I bought was an “as is.” Thanks for the reminder that some states still require some warranty
Two are the same because one is set one the car is started based on expected conditions not being correct. The second would be considered MIL, meaning it is a continuous code and the problem is actively occurring.
The P0705 is a transmission code for your park/neutral positioning. In my opinion this isn’t detrimental and safe to drive with, but could be indicative of an electrical problem. You should look for corroded or unconnected electrical harnesses around your PCM, transmission and under your dash to start with
The P0505 — is an idle air control. This is how much air is entering the engine while sitting. Look primarily for an electrical harness as above. But also now look for a vacuum line that is leaking
You could just need an idle re-learn procedure.
Eric has a FAQ dedicated to Honda idle problems
Go through that section carefully and let us know what you do/learn
Does the car idle rough?
Two are the same because one is set one the car is started based on expected conditions not being correct. The second would be considered MIL, meaning it is a continuous code and the problem is actively occurring.
The P0705 is a transmission code for your park/neutral positioning. In my opinion this isn’t detrimental and safe to drive with, but could be indicative of an electrical problem. You should look for corroded or unconnected electrical harnesses around your PCM, transmission and under your dash to start with
The P0505 — is an idle air control. This is how much air is entering the engine while sitting. Look primarily for an electrical harness as above. But also now look for a vacuum line that is leaking
You could just need an idle re-learn procedure.
Eric has a FAQ dedicated to Honda idle problems
Go through that section carefully and let us know what you do/learn
Does the car idle rough?
I did a search through NAPA auto parts and for a 1996 Honda Accord Wagon the axle length for the automatic transmission with ABS is 24 9/16″ or 624 mm for the right (passenger) side. There are actually 8 different axle lengths available through NAPA and I think it has to do with the fact there were so many options in 1996.
I’m sorry this has turned out to be a bit of a hassle for you, hopefully you’ll be able to find your best answer soon.
I did a search through NAPA auto parts and for a 1996 Honda Accord Wagon the axle length for the automatic transmission with ABS is 24 9/16″ or 624 mm for the right (passenger) side. There are actually 8 different axle lengths available through NAPA and I think it has to do with the fact there were so many options in 1996.
I’m sorry this has turned out to be a bit of a hassle for you, hopefully you’ll be able to find your best answer soon.
Hey Collegeman, was Honda still using OBDI in 96? I thought they had switched over earlier…or was that their switch over year?
Hey Collegeman, was Honda still using OBDI in 96? I thought they had switched over earlier…or was that their switch over year?
That would be interesting if it were. It could have not been allowing the spark plug to be completely sealed as well. Let’s hope that was all the problem was. But if it were, then you’ll want to double check for an oil leak somewhere around that spark plug (i.e. valve cover)
Keep us updated
That would be interesting if it were. It could have not been allowing the spark plug to be completely sealed as well. Let’s hope that was all the problem was. But if it were, then you’ll want to double check for an oil leak somewhere around that spark plug (i.e. valve cover)
Keep us updated
It does sound possible to be a loose timing chain (metal on metal rattling, but it is fuzzy). It can be an indepth job to replace the tensioner (about 1-2 days work for a shadetree mechanic) depending on how many parts need replaced and if you have special tools available (mainly pulleys). I’d advise using the car sparingly if you have a bad tensioner. Also, make sure only dealer parts are used. I did some quick reading on this problem, and most have worse experiences with aftermarket parts.
If you don’t want to do the work, most places will not charge the diagnosis if they do the work on a job like this.
It does sound possible to be a loose timing chain (metal on metal rattling, but it is fuzzy). It can be an indepth job to replace the tensioner (about 1-2 days work for a shadetree mechanic) depending on how many parts need replaced and if you have special tools available (mainly pulleys). I’d advise using the car sparingly if you have a bad tensioner. Also, make sure only dealer parts are used. I did some quick reading on this problem, and most have worse experiences with aftermarket parts.
If you don’t want to do the work, most places will not charge the diagnosis if they do the work on a job like this.