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After some further internet research here is a claim I found that appears to make sense (Original Poster: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21662)
[i]If you are using plain steel shim head gaskets, then I have used the copper spray with good luck.
If you are using higher end MLS gaskets (Cometic, Fel-Pro, Victor-Reinz) they are coated (typically with Viton) and need to go on DRY.
Keep in mind though, with either MLS or Steel Shim, if the surface finish on your heads and block aren’t up to snuff (read: very smooth, 32 RA or smoother) don’t be surprised if you have leaks! The steel shim and MLS gaskets are not very forgiving and do not take kindly to rough surfaces.
[/i]I will likely go dry then as I do know there is a rubber material on around the coolant/oil/piston areas
Hi all,
All my parts have or should arrive today for me to start putting the engine back together. I have a question regarding installing the head gasket.
A MasterTech video by Chrysler states to spray the head gaskets (MoparPerformace ones I bet) with copper spray equivalent. I don’t recall copper spray being on the old gaskets when I removed them, nor does Victor-Reinz mention or my service manual mention that I should be putting copper spray down. Does anyone have thoughts on this? Should I spray the block side since it was not machined down and leave the cylinder head clean?
Also, I have some rubber O-rings that need to be replaced on the rear-timing cover for the coolant passages. The dealer doesn’t have them/couldn’t find them. These aren’t small O-rings either (about 1/4″ thick) and no parts stores had anything either. Can I use RTV gasket maker to form my own “O-rings” or is this a bad idea?
Best,
StevenHi all,
All my parts have or should arrive today for me to start putting the engine back together. I have a question regarding installing the head gasket.
A MasterTech video by Chrysler states to spray the head gaskets (MoparPerformace ones I bet) with copper spray equivalent. I don’t recall copper spray being on the old gaskets when I removed them, nor does Victor-Reinz mention or my service manual mention that I should be putting copper spray down. Does anyone have thoughts on this? Should I spray the block side since it was not machined down and leave the cylinder head clean?
Also, I have some rubber O-rings that need to be replaced on the rear-timing cover for the coolant passages. The dealer doesn’t have them/couldn’t find them. These aren’t small O-rings either (about 1/4″ thick) and no parts stores had anything either. Can I use RTV gasket maker to form my own “O-rings” or is this a bad idea?
Best,
StevenI finally had time this weekend to remove the heads (wow…Chrysler makes their engines a pain to work on). The pistons and heads themselves looked spectacularly clean for having 189,000 miles (I could see most of the aluminum!)
The right head had a low spot of 0.005″ at cylinder 3, while the left head was roughly 0.001″. According the specs, the tolerance is 0.002″ for the head or the block. The heads are being machined at NAPA and a pressure check performed.
The block on the left was golden, and on the right showed just under 0.002″. I know I should remove the block to do the job right, but I don’t plan on it at this time.
The question I have is will removing that extra material from one side affect how the car runs, or is it not significant enough to warrant concern.
I finally had time this weekend to remove the heads (wow…Chrysler makes their engines a pain to work on). The pistons and heads themselves looked spectacularly clean for having 189,000 miles (I could see most of the aluminum!)
The right head had a low spot of 0.005″ at cylinder 3, while the left head was roughly 0.001″. According the specs, the tolerance is 0.002″ for the head or the block. The heads are being machined at NAPA and a pressure check performed.
The block on the left was golden, and on the right showed just under 0.002″. I know I should remove the block to do the job right, but I don’t plan on it at this time.
The question I have is will removing that extra material from one side affect how the car runs, or is it not significant enough to warrant concern.
Interesting suggestion, but if the cylinder head isn’t warped, I would think that tightening the headbolts would risk bending the block. I was looking for coolant/oil mixture because of experience with this before. =
Interesting suggestion, but if the cylinder head isn’t warped, I would think that tightening the headbolts would risk bending the block. I was looking for coolant/oil mixture because of experience with this before. =
There is a similar post earlier with a Cherokee. The guy ended up replacing the sensor, and hasn’t said if all is good or not. But your wires are all good (no cracks) and terminals are on the sensor and harness?
There is a similar post earlier with a Cherokee. The guy ended up replacing the sensor, and hasn’t said if all is good or not. But your wires are all good (no cracks) and terminals are on the sensor and harness?
The post of the guy with the jeep head cylinder/gasket problem seems to have answered mine as well…II need to start removing stuff :(…then hope I’m not SOL
The post of the guy with the jeep head cylinder/gasket problem seems to have answered mine as well…II need to start removing stuff :(…then hope I’m not SOL
Alright, I have a diagnostic update and need some help with the next step. I will put all the information below that I think may be pertinent for you to help.
1. 2004 Chrysler 300M Special 3.5L with 189,600 miles
2. Has overheated in the past (aluminum cylinder head, I believe the block as well)
3. Overheated, was low on coolant
4. Due to the substantial amount of coolant around the engine bay, it was assumed a coolant system leak
5. Pressure test performed: a pressure of 16.5PSI was held for 40 minutes, no leaks could be seen
6. Compression test showed no “bad” cylinder (all hit 150PSI by the 4th stroke)
7. Block test showed a combustion leak into the coolant
8. no coolant observed in the oil (and no oil in the coolant)
9. no noticeable performance issuesWhat is the next diagnostic step, or is there not much I can do until I start taking it apart? Can I distinguish between a bad gasket, warped or cracked head cylinder? If I understand the leakdown test correctly, it will tell me which cylinder(s) are the problem, not the exact nature of the combustion leak is.
Also, if the cylinder head is bad (warped/cracked) is it possible the block is still good, or will the block also warp with the cylinder head?
Alright, I have a diagnostic update and need some help with the next step. I will put all the information below that I think may be pertinent for you to help.
1. 2004 Chrysler 300M Special 3.5L with 189,600 miles
2. Has overheated in the past (aluminum cylinder head, I believe the block as well)
3. Overheated, was low on coolant
4. Due to the substantial amount of coolant around the engine bay, it was assumed a coolant system leak
5. Pressure test performed: a pressure of 16.5PSI was held for 40 minutes, no leaks could be seen
6. Compression test showed no “bad” cylinder (all hit 150PSI by the 4th stroke)
7. Block test showed a combustion leak into the coolant
8. no coolant observed in the oil (and no oil in the coolant)
9. no noticeable performance issuesWhat is the next diagnostic step, or is there not much I can do until I start taking it apart? Can I distinguish between a bad gasket, warped or cracked head cylinder? If I understand the leakdown test correctly, it will tell me which cylinder(s) are the problem, not the exact nature of the combustion leak is.
Also, if the cylinder head is bad (warped/cracked) is it possible the block is still good, or will the block also warp with the cylinder head?
That’s my thoughts. I’ve hit up three stores here, and none have the pressure tester available for rent or purchase (many employee’s didn’t even know what I was talking about). I’ve got the block tester to at least rule out the head gasket, but imho it’s likely been warped (my mother has a terrible record with maintenance, and the 3.5L doesn’t take kindly to that)
On my way to the boys.
That’s my thoughts. I’ve hit up three stores here, and none have the pressure tester available for rent or purchase (many employee’s didn’t even know what I was talking about). I’ve got the block tester to at least rule out the head gasket, but imho it’s likely been warped (my mother has a terrible record with maintenance, and the 3.5L doesn’t take kindly to that)
On my way to the boys.