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We did have a similar “dealer” issue with my mom’s Chrysler 300M. I didn’t have time nor desire to work on it. We knew it was having overheating issues and she took it to the dealer. They told her that the compression test showed it was a cracked engine (the invoice said this too!). It would be about $3K to fix, but advised against it due to the high mileage.
Because I’ve watched soo many ETCG and Briansmobile videos, I was suspect about that. Doing diagnostics did confirm coolant/combustion problems. Removing engine pieces did confirm a warped cylinder…NO CRACKS, and the engine was in beautiful condition (perhaps the coolant was cleaning it, except it was all six cylinders).
I am almost done putting it together because of little things…like breaking the heater-core pipe, or stripped timing belt tensioner threads. I don’t believe the mechanic was stupid, he didn’t want to work on it because it has been a huge PITA, and he knew this. This gets somewhat into one video Eric did about certain jobs don’t really make the employee money. I don’t know if this one was that type of job, but clearly it has been labor intensive and there are things that likely would have cost them time and money to fix because of weak/brittle plastics.
That said, I agree that quality mechanics are hard to come by, whether the dealer or private shops. If you find one, cherish them.
We did have a similar “dealer” issue with my mom’s Chrysler 300M. I didn’t have time nor desire to work on it. We knew it was having overheating issues and she took it to the dealer. They told her that the compression test showed it was a cracked engine (the invoice said this too!). It would be about $3K to fix, but advised against it due to the high mileage.
Because I’ve watched soo many ETCG and Briansmobile videos, I was suspect about that. Doing diagnostics did confirm coolant/combustion problems. Removing engine pieces did confirm a warped cylinder…NO CRACKS, and the engine was in beautiful condition (perhaps the coolant was cleaning it, except it was all six cylinders).
I am almost done putting it together because of little things…like breaking the heater-core pipe, or stripped timing belt tensioner threads. I don’t believe the mechanic was stupid, he didn’t want to work on it because it has been a huge PITA, and he knew this. This gets somewhat into one video Eric did about certain jobs don’t really make the employee money. I don’t know if this one was that type of job, but clearly it has been labor intensive and there are things that likely would have cost them time and money to fix because of weak/brittle plastics.
That said, I agree that quality mechanics are hard to come by, whether the dealer or private shops. If you find one, cherish them.
I’d suggest any certifications and if your insured that information. I know when we take our cars somewhere, we like to be able to see that information when possible.
Congrats on the shop and best of luck.
I’d suggest any certifications and if your insured that information. I know when we take our cars somewhere, we like to be able to see that information when possible.
Congrats on the shop and best of luck.
Your car is definitely fine, the break-in may be slightly affected as it was idling at the same speed, but most new cars don’t require the same break-in procedures the old ones did (or so I’ve been told). Just sucks to have used up that gas…but at least it wasn’t stolen.
Your car is definitely fine, the break-in may be slightly affected as it was idling at the same speed, but most new cars don’t require the same break-in procedures the old ones did (or so I’ve been told). Just sucks to have used up that gas…but at least it wasn’t stolen.
Our family has several vehicles at or over 200,000 miles. We plan on getting our suburban to the 300K club!
Anyway, thought I’d post this PBS video that the awesome Neil DeGrasse Tyson did to put us all to shame
http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/tech/car-with-most-mileage.html
Our family has several vehicles at or over 200,000 miles. We plan on getting our suburban to the 300K club!
Anyway, thought I’d post this PBS video that the awesome Neil DeGrasse Tyson did to put us all to shame
http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/tech/car-with-most-mileage.html
Yes, it is a part by Gates. Usually they are spot on with their parts being equivalent. I just had no familiarity with this type of water pump and was unsure about how it should fit.
Yes, it is a part by Gates. Usually they are spot on with their parts being equivalent. I just had no familiarity with this type of water pump and was unsure about how it should fit.
Hey,
Our ’04 Impala had a similar issue with the ABS/traction control turning off at random intervals. For us it ended up being a bad hub assembly. Never had driving issues or any other problem, and there was no play in the hub nor grease leaking. But in the end upon removing it, all the rings just fell out…I guess that was lucky nothing worse happened.
Hope you figure yours out.
Hey,
Our ’04 Impala had a similar issue with the ABS/traction control turning off at random intervals. For us it ended up being a bad hub assembly. Never had driving issues or any other problem, and there was no play in the hub nor grease leaking. But in the end upon removing it, all the rings just fell out…I guess that was lucky nothing worse happened.
Hope you figure yours out.
After some further internet research here is a claim I found that appears to make sense (Original Poster: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21662)
[i]If you are using plain steel shim head gaskets, then I have used the copper spray with good luck.
If you are using higher end MLS gaskets (Cometic, Fel-Pro, Victor-Reinz) they are coated (typically with Viton) and need to go on DRY.
Keep in mind though, with either MLS or Steel Shim, if the surface finish on your heads and block aren’t up to snuff (read: very smooth, 32 RA or smoother) don’t be surprised if you have leaks! The steel shim and MLS gaskets are not very forgiving and do not take kindly to rough surfaces.
[/i]I will likely go dry then as I do know there is a rubber material on around the coolant/oil/piston areas