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That’s why I’m playing with the timing belt…again (I’ll finish when I get home). Monday night after redoing everything, I did 8 miles with good performance and no issues before my the code returned and the car entered limp mode. If it were out of time, I would suspect the code would have appeared before I made it to the end of the driveway. There was no jumping of the belt when I tore it down last night.
That’s why I’m playing with the timing belt…again (I’ll finish when I get home). Monday night after redoing everything, I did 8 miles with good performance and no issues before my the code returned and the car entered limp mode. If it were out of time, I would suspect the code would have appeared before I made it to the end of the driveway. There was no jumping of the belt when I tore it down last night.
You can buy the block test kit at NAPA for about $25. I think some stores rent them out, but none in my area do. See if a local shop has it available for a small fee to replace their solution you use.
You can buy the block test kit at NAPA for about $25. I think some stores rent them out, but none in my area do. See if a local shop has it available for a small fee to replace their solution you use.
Also, I bought a 100Amp load tester from harbor freight (big bucks here :stick: ). The voltage at rest was 12.8 according to the tester, and 12.63 according to my multimeter. Probably well within the $20 margin of error for the load tester.
The key was that my CCA showed about 450amps on a 700 amp battery. I’d love that electrolysis to give me a full battery, but…that’s not going to happen. AZone said that the battery was good…opinions? Was that an AZone fail and it’s time to replace? What are peoples opinions on NAPA batteries? They are running $60 cheaper than Duralast or Interstate out here.
Also, I bought a 100Amp load tester from harbor freight (big bucks here :stick: ). The voltage at rest was 12.8 according to the tester, and 12.63 according to my multimeter. Probably well within the $20 margin of error for the load tester.
The key was that my CCA showed about 450amps on a 700 amp battery. I’d love that electrolysis to give me a full battery, but…that’s not going to happen. AZone said that the battery was good…opinions? Was that an AZone fail and it’s time to replace? What are peoples opinions on NAPA batteries? They are running $60 cheaper than Duralast or Interstate out here.
Ugh, I did it again. I commented before I read the link. I’ve been going through that link and as
far as I can tell, nothing is wrong based on the recommended procedures. The only thing I haven’t done is to remove the crankshaft sensor and check the driveplate for damage. I thought the link was to the forum here where the issue came up.For the hell of it, I decided to dig out my camshaft alignment tools for this engine and “redo” the timing for the car just to guarantee to myself it was spot on.
What I found was not expected. After removing the belt, I attached the camshaft alignment tool. The issue was that the marks on the timing belt housing with the camshaft sprocket were no longer centered. When I first changed the belt everything was fine. There is not a lot of play allowed (i.e. less than 1 degree) of the camshaft with the tool locked in place. The camshaft was lined up with the first timing mark on both cams. I don’t recall what it was when I first did the timing belt 8K miles ago, and when I redid the timing belt because of a faulty water pump (1100 miles ago), I just made white marks and didn’t use the camshaft tools.
My question is, should I go with my timing marks that I made, or the camshaft alignment tool? It essentially equates to almost a whole tooth different :sick: . Clearly the engine doesn’t seem affected as mileage and performance were good both times I changed the belt. I’m leaning toward using the alignment tool as that’s what it was designed for.
I checked for TDC (as accurately as I could as I don’t have a dial gauge). I covered up the crank timing mark so I wouldn’t be biased and while rotating the engine where I felt TDC was, ended up perfectly with the timing mark (WOOT banana: ).
Ugh, I did it again. I commented before I read the link. I’ve been going through that link and as
far as I can tell, nothing is wrong based on the recommended procedures. The only thing I haven’t done is to remove the crankshaft sensor and check the driveplate for damage. I thought the link was to the forum here where the issue came up.For the hell of it, I decided to dig out my camshaft alignment tools for this engine and “redo” the timing for the car just to guarantee to myself it was spot on.
What I found was not expected. After removing the belt, I attached the camshaft alignment tool. The issue was that the marks on the timing belt housing with the camshaft sprocket were no longer centered. When I first changed the belt everything was fine. There is not a lot of play allowed (i.e. less than 1 degree) of the camshaft with the tool locked in place. The camshaft was lined up with the first timing mark on both cams. I don’t recall what it was when I first did the timing belt 8K miles ago, and when I redid the timing belt because of a faulty water pump (1100 miles ago), I just made white marks and didn’t use the camshaft tools.
My question is, should I go with my timing marks that I made, or the camshaft alignment tool? It essentially equates to almost a whole tooth different :sick: . Clearly the engine doesn’t seem affected as mileage and performance were good both times I changed the belt. I’m leaning toward using the alignment tool as that’s what it was designed for.
I checked for TDC (as accurately as I could as I don’t have a dial gauge). I covered up the crank timing mark so I wouldn’t be biased and while rotating the engine where I felt TDC was, ended up perfectly with the timing mark (WOOT banana: ).
Thanks Wyse, I had five a search for the p0016, and only got links had come up, but that wasn’t one. Guess we all get to be am internet noob sometime.
Thanks Wyse, I had five a search for the p0016, and only got links had come up, but that wasn’t one. Guess we all get to be am internet noob sometime.
Thanks Karl. While working on my fluorine experiment, I had time to think about this, and the electrical system was what I keep coming back to as well.
I had the battery tested at autozone, and it supposedly tested fine; I can check with a load on and I’ll see what reading I get. I had been thinking 12.2V, thanks for that correction. I’m wondering if there is a ground issue somewhere, I’ll have to check that. Thanks for the link. That’s a nice addition to the youtube videos Eric and others have done.
Thanks Karl. While working on my fluorine experiment, I had time to think about this, and the electrical system was what I keep coming back to as well.
I had the battery tested at autozone, and it supposedly tested fine; I can check with a load on and I’ll see what reading I get. I had been thinking 12.2V, thanks for that correction. I’m wondering if there is a ground issue somewhere, I’ll have to check that. Thanks for the link. That’s a nice addition to the youtube videos Eric and others have done.
Wish you the best in finding someone. You can just take it to any machine shop that has a milling machine (usually 16 ton) and let them know what roughness (or lack thereof) you want; the machine shop doesn’t necessarily have to be specific to cars. I don’t know the exact specs, but I think for aluminum it is generally between 40-60 RA, though every manufacturer will have different specs. Hit up a Mazda forum for your best answer.
Wish you the best in finding someone. You can just take it to any machine shop that has a milling machine (usually 16 ton) and let them know what roughness (or lack thereof) you want; the machine shop doesn’t necessarily have to be specific to cars. I don’t know the exact specs, but I think for aluminum it is generally between 40-60 RA, though every manufacturer will have different specs. Hit up a Mazda forum for your best answer.