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The nylon vacuum line in the wiring harness goes to the HVAC damper doors. These lines are prone to breakage with age.
Check the ERLS fuse in the under hood relay/fuse panel to see if it is blown. This fuse powers the O2 sensor heaters and the EVAP system solenoids.
Also clear the engine codes because the P0440 can disable many of the trouble code tests that the PCM normally runs. Note the GM did not check the heater amperage on these engines but checked the time required for the rear O2 sensor to start switching.
The nylon vacuum line in the wiring harness goes to the HVAC damper doors. These lines are prone to breakage with age.
Check the ERLS fuse in the under hood relay/fuse panel to see if it is blown. This fuse powers the O2 sensor heaters and the EVAP system solenoids.
Also clear the engine codes because the P0440 can disable many of the trouble code tests that the PCM normally runs. Note the GM did not check the heater amperage on these engines but checked the time required for the rear O2 sensor to start switching.
Note the GM used a rev limiter that will only allow around 4k RPM in park/neutral.
Ditto on the tune up if not done recently or the last time is unknown. The plug wires are known to rub and arc on the upper intake manifold near the throttle where they usually lay. AC Delco listed plugs are fine but use the proper double platinum/double iridium plugs (NGK makes these and their own line is called Laser Platinum/Iridium) if you are you are going to keep the car more than a year/15k miles. GM DIS systems are very hard on “copper” style plugs.
Check air intake hose between the MAF sensor and the TB for cracks and other damage which would allow air to bypass the MAF sensor. Also check the PCV breather tube from the air intake tube that plugs into the rear valve cover. It tends to pop out easily from the rear valve cover grommet and will allow some air to bypass the MAF sensor.
Check the fuel pressure regulator for a leaky diaphragm which can dump raw fuel into the intake manifold causing hot restart, stalling, fuel economy issues. You will need a Mity-Vac to apply a good vacuum or a piece of clear aquarium tubing the correct size so you will not swallow a slug of gasoline when sucking on it. If you can apply near vacuum for 4-5 minutes without any raw gas then the FPR is fine. Scanner Danner did a video on problem and it is common on GM vehicles.
The blower motor can go bad especially if the condensate drain valve plugs up but the most common problem on the N Body cars is the blower motor resistor which is well known to burn up. Carefully check to make sure that the blower motor is turning on at a
http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/faq.p … erv_x000D_
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Note that the coolant reservoir tanks are well known to strip out the threads from cross threading and/or over tightening the radiator cap. Also the radiator cap design is knowDitto on checking and cleaning the battery cables at the terminal ends. Cut the boot off of the battery terminal if needed to check the condition wires. Check the positive wire at the starter as well as the main body ground and the engine block ground. Fo
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
If your talking about using JB weld I’ve tried it and it doesn’t work, the only thing that was a permanent fix for me was an adhesive that I got from the body shop that came in a caulk gun like tube, can’t remember the name of the stuff unfortunately.
You are correct that JB Weld will not work for that. I was talking about the two part epoxy in a side by side “double barrel shotgun” style syringe that you have a little mixing tray to combine the two together. Permatex Permapoxy is the common one that you can find at Walmart, Autozone, Advance Auto, etc and Superglue and a few other companies make a similar line of products as well.
I would have replied earlier but we just had the Stormpocalypse this past weekend.
Exactly when was the PCV valve changed? Was it a Honda OEM part? The reasoning here is IIRC Honda just shoved the PCV valve in any place it could and this time frame the PCV valves were quite hard to access. Any damage or constrictions to the hoses as wel
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMxPyLat … deo
This video shows exactly what to do on a 2 door Alero (Grand Am is nearly identical and the four door car are almost exactly the same). Note that people tend to break the cable clip on the regulator assembly as well so those may need to be changed out (or a new regulator assembly). You can use a urethane based glue especially for windows or a two part 5-20 minute set epoxy that is good for glass, metal and most plastic. Do note that the worst part of this repair is removal of the old broken window sash clip and most of the old epoxy so people sometimes take their windows to a glass shop.This is a GM Passlock 2 system that uses tamper sensors inside of the ignition switch to see if the car is being started normally instead of a resistor key used in the older GM systems. This system usually works fine but GM cheapened the components so you
Read up on how to use a beam style torque wrench. A digital torque wrench adapter also works very well especially in tight places. Very easy to verify the torque setting used, especially on aluminum rims which really like to un torque themselves about 15-
Tune ups today are a lot different than say 30 years ago where you had much shorter service intervals and things like caps and rotors and carburetors that modern cars do not have anymore. One thing that cars today share with older vehicles is that the sch
There are two reasons that the cost was $175; extreme dealer MSRP markup on the air cabin filter and the extremely ridiculous flat ratebook time system that allows the abuse of customer in all aspects of the auto service industry._x000D_
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Note that one of the