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right on man. what kind of heads are you using? I’m looking around at different heads for this winter, I haven’t decided yet if I’m going to go with a 351w, or stay with a 302 and just have it bored to a 306 or 331. been thinking gt40 heads with some port and valve work if I stay with a 302 block.
I’ve done a couple efi to carb swaps on mustangs, but they’ve been all out track cars that never see street time.
my goal is an 11 second car that can be daily driven. the engine itself isn’t bad to swap in, the fuel system needs gutted and started from scratch, I’ll probably run all new lines for brakes and fuel both to serve the purpose of the car and maintenance, its a 20 year old car with 200xxx miles.
transmission shouldn’t be an issue because I’ll either get a 5 speed or a c4 auto with a manual valvebody because I’ve never had any luck with AODE’s built or not.
the reason I’m looking at wiring is because of the PATS (or is it VATS on these?) causing the locks and interior issues that some people have had, and I want to use the factory gauges to give it a stock appearance without the hood being open.
a fuel cell is probably going to be my route for the fuel because I have to cut the trunk pan out and do some rust repair anyhow. I rarely put anything aside from tools in my trunk so i’ll probably just weld a flat panel in once I take care of the rust and cut the old out and bolt a fuel cell to it, it’ll give me enough room to relocate my battery and have space for a nitrous bottle down the road perhaps.no sensors except something to drive the speedo, and sending units for oil, water, and fuel. WAY less headaches to deal with.
yeah, this manual is garbage.. the more I look at it, the more I regret getting it lol. it says to remove the front bumper I have to drill rivets out on either side..nope. also says that 94-95 GT’s have a throttle valve/kickdown cable on the automatics.. I’ve had multiple auto 94-95 GT’s and have yet to see anything like that on them. I believe the kickdown is controlled by the vehicle speed and throttle position sensors.
I’m going to have to look into a helms manual, especially for this winter because I’m going to need pretty accurate wiring diagrams an how everything interacts in these cars because I intend to swap a carbureted 351w into it. eliminate all the sensors and I’d be fine, these computers just make things more aggravating to diagnose and single out.
thanks for the replies and info, this manual I have is borderline useless lol. I traced the wiring around and found that both wires were cut and stuffed back inside the wire loom/ribbed protector. it was intentionally cut because I could see the marks from a set of side cutters, no idea why someone would want to do that but I hooked them back up and the gauge reads fine. thanks again
right on, that’s what I was thinking. I didn’t drop the pan today, but I did drive it around, and I messed with the shifter a bit and it finally started using reverse and neutral, but then it wouldn’t go forward. so I put it back up in the air, and disconnected the linkage and shifted it manually from underneath with the wheels in the air, sure enough it went into all the gear like it should. but if you put it back down on the tires it wouldn’t move in drive. so I got a couple quarts of fluid because it showed a little low and put them in. it would move in drive, but only if you played the gas for a few seconds, then it finally figured itself out and started moving and shifting til you came to a stop and had to play with it all over again.
it did that enough for a test drive, and when I parked it the last time, it wouldn’t move in drive now AT ALL, so we had to tow it back to my buddies house and now itll go into park, reverse, and neutral just fine, but theres a really high pitched (not very loud) whine in drive, so I think the clutches are bad and its just spinning metal on metal..this Friday I’m going to be helping him with it again, I’m going to drop the pan and check for any remnants and inspect the linkage/manual valve and valvebody if there isn’t a bunch of metal or friction material. fingers crossed we can get her back on the road, but I’m beginning to think a trans replacement is in the cards.Well, picked up the sensor this morning, and was able to change it out at work after I clocked off. started the truck 2 times and the CEL is out, trucks running and idling much smoother. now I just have to let the PCM figure everything out and adjust the fuel trims.
hopefully, this, coupled with a couple other things I have planned for this coming Friday will get some gas mileage back in this hog, but right now she’s at least running heaps better.
Thank you guys for your insight and suggestions, definitely saved me a good bit of cash getting it done DIY versus going thru the stealership or garages haha.
Well, picked up the sensor this morning, and was able to change it out at work after I clocked off. started the truck 2 times and the CEL is out, trucks running and idling much smoother. now I just have to let the PCM figure everything out and adjust the fuel trims.
hopefully, this, coupled with a couple other things I have planned for this coming Friday will get some gas mileage back in this hog, but right now she’s at least running heaps better.
Thank you guys for your insight and suggestions, definitely saved me a good bit of cash getting it done DIY versus going thru the stealership or garages haha.
most of those german cars are a PITA to work on.. lol
I was working at a local shop and we were doing something to a newer jetta or something.. that thing gave us hell for about 3 days. finally got the sucker fixed and the lady that owned called to say she blew the engine about a week later and traded it in lol
most of those german cars are a PITA to work on.. lol
I was working at a local shop and we were doing something to a newer jetta or something.. that thing gave us hell for about 3 days. finally got the sucker fixed and the lady that owned called to say she blew the engine about a week later and traded it in lol
ok, ill have to see how this particular PCM handles all that, I know dodges are kind of weird with electrics lol
as long as it clears the light, and allows the computer to go back into closed loop and get some gas mileage back, I’ll be ecstatic.. lol
ok, ill have to see how this particular PCM handles all that, I know dodges are kind of weird with electrics lol
as long as it clears the light, and allows the computer to go back into closed loop and get some gas mileage back, I’ll be ecstatic.. lol
Right on.
yeah, with no access to a good scan tool with live data capabilities, and seeing a dead short in the heater circuit, I’m fairly certain that the sensor either just gave out, or I got PB blast into it and fried it.I ordered the sensor this afternoon, I’ll have it in the morning, was able to score a deal for an OE unit at $34 so that’s even better lol
with my work schedule, I’m probably not going to have a chance to really work on the truck anymore til Monday or Tuesday, but as soon as I get it changed out, I’ll post up my results and, fingers crossed, wont be seeing a check engine light or 7.5 mpg anymore haha.
I do have a question relating to the CHECK ENGINE light and codes, what would be the best way to clear the codes without a scanner? I’m hesitant about disconnecting the battery and resetting the PCM because I don’t want it to have to relearn everything, is there a way to just clear the codes without a scan tool?
And thanks a bunch Eric, your videos and expertise have been a huge help in my automotive work, and a great learning experience that I’ve been able to use many times now.
Right on.
yeah, with no access to a good scan tool with live data capabilities, and seeing a dead short in the heater circuit, I’m fairly certain that the sensor either just gave out, or I got PB blast into it and fried it.I ordered the sensor this afternoon, I’ll have it in the morning, was able to score a deal for an OE unit at $34 so that’s even better lol
with my work schedule, I’m probably not going to have a chance to really work on the truck anymore til Monday or Tuesday, but as soon as I get it changed out, I’ll post up my results and, fingers crossed, wont be seeing a check engine light or 7.5 mpg anymore haha.
I do have a question relating to the CHECK ENGINE light and codes, what would be the best way to clear the codes without a scanner? I’m hesitant about disconnecting the battery and resetting the PCM because I don’t want it to have to relearn everything, is there a way to just clear the codes without a scan tool?
And thanks a bunch Eric, your videos and expertise have been a huge help in my automotive work, and a great learning experience that I’ve been able to use many times now.
well, I tested the o2 sensor heater just now and it showed nothing on the multimeter, no high resistance, no low resistance. absolutely nothing. so I’m thinking I’m looking at replacing the sensor.