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I haven’t messed with the wiring to the injectors or alternator yet as far as eliminating them from the circuit, the o2 sensor was broken so I just unplugged it from the harness (didn’t help or hurt anything)…..actually, come to think of it. if the ASD goes directly to the injectors, that would mean a faulty injector wiring or harness could be the problem right? my brother mentioned today about seeing what looked to be an ex-rats nest or squirrel nest on the passenger side upper intake area right by the injector wiring. I’ll take a look at that tomorrow after work and see if it helps anything. in the meantime, theres no fuses for anything in the interior in the vehicle right now.. I eliminated EVERYTHING inside the truck as part of my investigation..
actually, that reminds me. I noticed whenever i’d turn the key ON, it would click the AC clutch, even with everything on the HVAC controls turned off. think that might be related? cause it seems the recall pertains to a relationship between the HVAC and ignition switch.
the connectors by the inner fender well, are both outside the cab and they both looked good inside and out. if I get any deeper into the wiring inside the cab I’m gonna have to pull at least the top half of the dash out and get into it. I’m thinking about pulling the ignition switch apart and see if theres anything in it that doesn’t look right.
I need to look up all the recalls on this thing, but unfortunately I doubt the dealership would even touch this thing to honor a recall with everything that’s been done to it.
ok, dropped the fuel tank and inspected all the wiring from the pump to the distribution block, all looks good.
behind the driver front wheel, under the inner liner, theres 2 plugs that come off the harness out of the engine bay, one goes back to the fuel pump, one looks to go up to the firewall or into the cab. I unplugged both of those and checked if it blew the fuse and it does. so its not the wiring back to the fuel pump.. I’m thinking its something in the cab, maybe a bad ignition switch?
I pulled the ignition switch out because the previous owner said he replaced it, and the plug that goes onto the switch looks like it had caught fire before because it was all melted and beat. and all the wires were extended with about 20 butt connectors.. however, even with everything unhooked and no wires touch each other, it still blows the fuse, so I don’t think that’s the source of the problem either.
well, so far no dice. unplugged the fuel pump back at the tank, still pops the fuse. Unplugged the ignition coil, still pops the fuse, pulled every bit of aftermarket wiring out of it, and still pops the fuse. every bit of wiring I’ve touched has been in good shape.
2 things I have figured out though, if the grey plug bundle on the driver side of the firewall is unplugged, it doesn’t pop the fuse, and if the #9 fuse in the interior fuse block labled ”ENG” is out, it doesn’t pop the fuse. does that help any?right on, thank you. I’ve found a few wiring diagrams online, but they’re all contradicting of each other as to color coding or which terminal does what exactly. I did see the black/DG wire down in the fuel pump harness today though. I’m gonna put some time in on it tomorrow and see if I can get a little further with it. and yeah, I think I’ve learned my lesson on the higher amperage fuses, I don’t really feel like going to the jungle gym that is my local parts yard after an ecm again anytime soon, I think I cleared them out of all the ones that might work for this truck as it is lol
and I’m about certain that putting the 40A fuse in place of the 20A for the fuel pump is what did the ECU in, didn’t have any of the issues with the relays going nuts before I did that. so I guess tomorrow, I’m gonna start unplugging components and see if blows the fuse. if I get one that doesn’t, I guess I’ll be looking closer in that area.
ok, unplugging the fuel pump and (assuming I find the wiring back to it to be up to par) turning the key on, I can see if the fuse blows and if it does, its not the pump, if it doesn’t I’m on the right path. and getting the tank down from underneath won’t be an issue, its got like 6-8″ of lift on 38’s. I’d probably still lift the bed though, easier to get to everything all at once.
its got an AC delco battery in it, the batterys in good shape. what do you mean what kind of draw? I’ve been tracing wires and looking at grounds. ground to chassis, engine, and battery all read between .5ohm and 1.5ohm. nothing looks chafed, burned, or damaged.
nope, had an aftermarket radio, CB, and CD changer, none of which were installed 100% right, but I yanked all of those and still no Bueno. thing the ignition switch or fuel pump itself could be doing this? or maybe ignition coil with a short in it? dude I bought it from replaced both of the body modules that sit in the front end on the inner fenders, I have both the old ones that still work. maybe one of the newer ones are defective? I’m really at a loss on this one, electronics are like brain surgery to me.
also, if I pull the fuse in the underhood distribution block that’s for IGN/RUN/ACC it doesn’t blow the fuel pump fuse either.
alright, went to the parts yard today and grabbed 3 ECU’s to try. when I got home I stuck one in the truck and fiddled with it a bit and still won’t start. however, I noticed something, if the auto shutdown relay is in and you turn the key on, it blows the 20A fuel pump fuse every time..as soon as you turn the key to on. if the auto shutdown relay is pulled out, it doesn’t blow the fuse, but it also doesn’t prime the fuel pump. also jumping the fuel pump relay to bypass it doesn’t help. I’m thinking the problem is in the ASD side of the circuit, but I’m at a loss on what to check or how to check it.
so I did some more investigating with the multimeter and did a few other tests. and I’m 99% certain the ECU was fried. I pulled it out of the truck to inspect it on the bench, noticed the smell of electronics that’ve seen better days, so I cracked it open and 2 out of 3 capacitors were bulged and the coatings were melted nicely. so either tomorrow morning or Monday I’m gonna be visiting the auto yard and grabbing another ecu to try. I’ll post back when I make some more progress.
I’ll give that a shot. I did run the battery pretty dead last night messing with it, jumped it off my truck and it cranked good and had full power at least according to the gage. but I know Chryslers especially are really weird about low voltage. I’m gonna stop by the parts store after work this afternoon and grab a few of the 20A fuses and make sure it has all its fuses because I was doing some google-fu this morning, and it seems that the circuit controlling the fuel pump has a lot of parts to it that require proper voltage, I may have created an open connection somewhere by swapping fuses around and not having all the fuses it calls for in that distribution block.