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well, figured I’d post a conclusion to this journey.
fixed the trans harness, put some new fluid and filter in it. and it needs way more work than I have the time to fix and go over to make sure it’s a feasible daily driver for my mom.
talked it over with my mom today on what her plans were for it, and probably just going to sell it. it’s technically a running/driving truck, so I should at least be able to get my money back out of it.thanks everyone for the input and suggestions, I know I wouldn’t have gotten as far as I have in this amount of time without you guys. later on.
i know a guy locally that used to do rebuilds for the garage i worked at, If it comes to it I’ll be giving him a call. I’m not even going to waste my money on a boneyard Chrysler transmission…lipstick on a pig.
yeah, its seeming like an S.O.B lol but, on the good side.. it has a 6″ lift properly done, 38″ super swampers on 17’s, little to no rust on the body, and a straight clean frame. so its worth putting a little work into. oh, and it came with a CB, silver linings man…silver linings. and my mom loves the stupid thing
the fluid was black as squid ink and smelled like burgers left on the grill all afternoon, there was a lot of crap in the bottom of the pan, not the worst I’ve seen, but no great shakes either. about 8 inches of the harness shows signs of being real hot, basically anywhere on the wires that was inside of the wire loom it has around it, and whatever was in the fluid. i had a similar issue like the fluid and burned guts like this in a 96 grand Cherokee i had, dumped the trans, put a new filter and fluid in it and got another few thousand miles out of it before selling it still running and shifting. idk the history on this one though, so we’ll see.
right on, thanks for finding that.
i should be able to get a good idea of the solenoids based off those specs, the governor has the least amount of windings so it’ll be the lowest impedence, the 1-2 and 3-4 solenoids should both have the same impendence. (i think its a 1-2 and 3-4 solenoids in the little pack under there… guess i’ll find out lolI intended to check impedence on them while I was in there. i think the trans overheated and that melted them.. i’m gonna check the cooler and lines as well while i’m fiddling with it, but i’m willing to gamble the 40 bucks in fluid and filter to see if the trans is even worth messing with.
FOUND THE CULPRIT!!
the wiring harness inside the valvebody that goes to the governor and shift solenoids had gotten hot and slightly melted together, 2 wires were touching.I’m going to fix the harness, put some trans fluid in with a new filter, and hopefully the trans actually works… fingers crossed on that one considering what I found inside the pan when I pulled it.
not 100% sure when I’ll get a chance to put it all back together, going to try tomorrow if the weather and schedules line up.
no_common_sense, I’m thinking you maybe right on that one lol
andrewwebb58, Chryslers have always had problems with electrical and transmissions. and no problem, there will be more updates, just might be a couple days.
right on, I’ll give that a shot. that’s a little more than just pulling fuses so that’ll probably have to wait til I have a day off, working morning to night doesn’t lend itself to working on vehicles without a garage very well.
I went thru the diagrams on the trans circuit, I think part of my problem with electrical is diagrams like that confuse me when I try to put them together in my head, schematics as far as guitar amplifiers and effects I can do, but stuff like this just stumps me for some reason. I’ll go thru a process of elimination next chance I get, and hopefully I can get that sorted and move on to the maintenance I’m good at and get this thing road worthy for my mom.
being the glutton for punishment I am, and slightly OCD in that once I start something I have a hard time not finishing it.. lol
got home from work at 8pm and figured I had a few minutes so I tried the 2 things you suggested no_common_sense, the waiting a few then putting the fuse in resulted in another sacrificial fuse lol
however, pulled the trans relay, put a new fuse in and it fired right up.. obviously at this point the problem lies either in the harness going to the trans, or an electrical component related to the trans. now I have to try to find diagrams for that part of the circuit and start a process of elimination. the previous owner had said about going down the highway and it shut down and wouldn’t fire back up. any ideas on places to check based off the diagrams you’ve seen?
and seriously, thank you guys, I wouldn’t have gotten this far with it without your input.
i’ll give that a shot next chance I get to mess with the truck. I’ve been at it for days, I might take the day off tomorrow. may be a day or two til I have the time to put into it. but I’ll update as I go. hopefully I can conclude soon with a video of the truck running. but we’ll see.
ok, so whatever the issue is has to be after the ASD relay. so I’m gonna have to find any diagrams that pertain to that part of the circuit and go thru everything with a fine tooth comb.
I copied the links and instructions, you can take em down. thanks man.I flipped it and checked it out the other day, it was in great shape, no signs of burns, moisture damage, corrosion.. unless there’s an issue inside the fuse block in the driver side of the dash, that ones a little trickier to get out. but if I can’t find anything under the hood, that’s gonna be my next stop.
I think I’m on the right path to tracking it down with what does and doesn’t affect it.
so far, the list goes:
ASD relay
grey plug on the driver side of the firewall (the middle of the 3 main ties to the engine harness, theres black white and grey)
fuse #9 labled ENG inside the truck in the interior fuse panel
and ECU, if any of these are disconnected it doesn’t blow the fuse.everything else I’ve tried, if those are hooked up, the fuse inevitably becomes a sacrificial part. as soon as the key touches the ON position.
no_common_sense, do you have a link to where you get your diagrams? I can’t find a full listing for this truck, and without ordering online can’t get a helms manual. and Haynes manual’s are awful for electrical
no wires chewed in that area.. I can’t think of any other area’s aside from the ignition switch that would tie into that circuit on the power side, and no affect something else on the truck. the ac clutch, and the fuel pump fuse going out are all that I’ve seen. I’ve checked everything else.
do you think, based off the diagrams you have handy, that hotwiring the fuel pump (at least as a investigatory process) would be enough to bypass that fuse and see if the truck will fire up? or do other things rely on that fuse having connection?